smallmouthaholic

I feel the same! There are too many on TU that can't say a simple thank you when an informative post or supplier link is made as a result of the poster spending $1000's and countless hours to learn. Show a little appreciation when the info saves you time and $. There's more then a few"under the table'' folks on here that want free info to make money w/ out paying taxes and spending the $ to operate a legitimate business. They are quite easy to spot if you follow their post for a year.

The TU administrators do a good job-it's impossible to satisfy everyone. Rules are rules-if you adamantly object to them start your own "tackle talk" website ! Hint- most will say with TU-guaranteed!

You don't need acetone.Simple Green wipes or spray will do the job. Let the plastisol cool completely. It should peel out in one small,thin mass.

Posting numerous pics is borderline advertising product for sale through the back door. Become a sponsor/advertiser if you wish to do so .Make a written post w/ instructions and state there are pics in the gallery w/ a link. Simple,short and to the point and no one becomes offended.

Laminates can be tricky.I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I have shot 1,000's of laminates using the shooting star system. I have used the 1:1 and the 2:21 to 1 dual injectors from Ultra-molds. The following tips may help I heat up my system 1st(no plastisol in the pots) rotate the blending block to the open position,then use compressed air to blow out the prior two colors from the system lines. Use a container in front of the open blending block to stop the hot plastisol from blasting you in the chest. through a copper tube to remove all old plastisol 1- Plastic types,viscosity should be the same 2-Plastisol temperatures must be within 5-10 degrees of each other- preferably the same 3- Check your pot plastisol temps. frequently as the volume in the pots decrease-internal temps, may rise 4- Dual injector must have good "O" rings,be taken apart,cleaned and operating smoothly before using.Lube w/ Pam 5- Make sure your input lines from the pots have melted and are drawing from the pots equally. 6- I do test strips on white card stock w/ the injectors following 1-5 to make sure the colors are accurate and there is no air in the entire system.I purge all unused plastisol back into the pots after injecting,using firm pressure against the horizontal injection ports,then rotating the injector to the right to turn off your blending block. Clean the ports on the system(q-tips work well) and injector bottom soft rag) before purging so you do not contaminated the colors. 7- As your pot volume of plastisol lowers,I find in necessary to turn off both of the pot stirrers to avoid drawing air- especially when using graduated injections.Turn your stirrers back on after drawing the hot plastiol I am still using a modified old system and this may not be necessary in the newer shooting star system. Both pots are titled to the draw opening. 8- Make sure you accurately measure the correct amount of plastiol per your graduated injector use for each pot. MOST IMPORTANT- All of my custom molds are from Cris Archer and are top port injection. Some are multiple(10-12) vertical ports across the top( per mold) and others are single port,10-12 multiple cavities in an internal T configuration.I also have many single cavity molds which have a top-port ,90 degree injection path into the mold. Your injector must be turned properly(usually perpendicular to the cavities) to 2 color inject. Some single cavity molds require parallel injecting. There are multi-cavity molds that will not two color inject due to the design layout. Some molds require even,slow injector pressure while others require faster injector pressure. Hand injection produces excellent results if one learns all of the variables. Consult your mold manufacturer when experiencing problems

Exactly and impressive.

Soft lead scratches easily w/ your fingernail

shortyshooks.com

Congrats on the "T" win-especially w/ your own baits. A couple of points dealing w/ a store- 1- Do not accept consignment-you get paid immediately after delivering your baits 2- Stores want a 40% discount and don't forget you're required to pay a 10% excise tax on the wholesale price to Uncle Sam. It only takes 1 jealous competitor to dime on you and you may be visited by the I.R.S. Excise tax w/ form #720 must be filed quarterly. You will need a Employer Identification Number (E.I.N.) issued by the I.R.S. 3-Calculate you vehicle expenses( most don't do this) and determine your minimum wholesale order to the shop . You can't be running back and forth for $50- $100 small orders and make a profit. Been there-done that when I started out. Good luck and success!

Correct!

Mark- it has been my experience that ultra-fine salt does not make a bait weaker- coarse, granular salt does.

...or politicians are loony !

My last 55 gallon order of Chemionics bubbled like crazy after 3 months of storage

Fishermen by nature are cheap. Pro-wannabees,Pros and some guides are cheaper. I do this full time( thankfully retired) but insist upon quality,not quantity. Kudos to Small jaw and Cadman- stick to your prices and beliefs. I gave away a ton of baits when I first started and now only a few w/minimum orders only. Cheap folks always have their hands out for freebies but develop broken arms when it comes time to pay. Every spring I get e-mails from folks who think they're the next Van Dam or Clunn. Their opening e-mail statements usually read-" I love your baits and I'll make you famous." LMAO!!!!!! I reply,''if you love my baits so much then why isn't your name on my data base and I don't want to be famous. Then there is the Pro-Staff wannabee crowd, I reply" 1st you have to be a loyal customer and 2nd,I have to know you personally" Funny thing, I ignored the hands open crowd and now the business shows a small profit.

If you could pour 1 per minute that gives you a labor rate of $10.80 per hour. Now calculate the time to clean/file off the sprue flush w/ the body.

https://www.americanchemistry.com/ProductsTechnology/Ketones/Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone-MEK.html

He will not honor your #637 excise tax exemption either

http://www.productol...rnamentworm.php 100 for $20.94- that's dirt cheap @ .21 each. Why not just buy them?

I fail to find any humor in your condescending remarks concerning a most unfortunate and potentially dangerous situation that I chronicled in detail.Using Pyrex glassware in microwave ovens can be dangerous.

100% Correct

A quote from Anchor Hocking link that Frank posted- "In addition, if you have a broken Anchor Hocking product, please be sure to keep all pieces of the product. Anchor Hocking welcomes the opportunity to examine the product to determine the cause of any product failure and to address any customer concerns." No further comment from me!

Frank- I spent 4 years in the military and hunted for 42 years. It sounded like a 12 gauge shotgun going off. There were chunks of glass of all sizes all over the shop for a radius of three (3) feet. Fortunately I extended and dropped my arm below waist height when I saw the Pyrex glass start to spider web seconds before it exploded like a hand grenade.My h.d. long pants were ruined w/ plastisol and glass but I was not.I was wearing h.d. gloves @ the time.I'll not bring this up again for a cross examination. Do as you please and draw your own conclusions. https://www.google.com/search?q=exploding+pyrex&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

I sincerely hope that none of you ever experience an exploding Pyrex hand grenade filled w/ hot plastisol @ shoulder and/or face level. The result will end in a disaster from glass shrapnel and plastic to your face and eyes. Peace and good luck!

Pardon my bluntness-You should buy you baits if a $25.00 borosilcate lab cup seems expensive. This is not a cheap hobby / business to get involved with if you don't value your personal safety and - are unwilling to spend $ to protect your eyes, lungs and body.

http://www.amazon.com/Catamount-Glassware-2-Cup-Measuring-Glass/dp/B00AT8G5O8/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1461885973&sr=1-5&keywords=borosilicate+measuring+cup