smallmouthaholic

I've warned about exploding Pyrex numerous times in this forum. I also recommend boroslicate lab mixing cups but many don't want to spend the $ for them. I had a Pyrex explode completely(like a hand grenade)-years ago while stirring it @ waist height. Fortunately I had long pants and hiking boots on that day. I saw the Pyrex start to spider web and immediately held it away @ arms length I haven't even considered using Pyrex since. Too many on this site go low budget and use Pyrex and breath the fumes directly removed from a microwave w/out proper ventilation. You only have one set of lungs and eyes!

Permanent markers will bleed throughout the plastic bait

Use a toaster oven for thorough heating during the cold winter air temps.

I'm strictly "old School" philosophy when it comes to business/customers. Return correspondence within 24-48 hrs bydeveloping a standard e-mail response to ordering customers that expedite response time .Don't take customers for granted or you may loose them .Don't tell folks 2 weeks when it may take 3-4 months- depending upon the custom CNC molds you order. There are only a few,really competent,custom CNC mold manufacturers and this is their busy time of the year

Frank, I refer to sticky baits as the ones that stay sticky for 2-3 days after injecting.MF is not sticky 2-3 days after injecting.- it is not sticky immediately after injecting. Any plastisol will bubble and yellow if heated too quickly including MF.Some will bubble profusely no mater how slowly you heat them and stir.Bubbling is not a problem(in my experience) when plastisol is heated from scratch in pots w/ continuous, mechanical stirrers . There are plastisols( in my experience) that turn an amber ,yellow color after heating from scratch in pots w/ stirrers. Put that brand in a microwave and you'll have a yellowing nightmare. I nose dip one of my line of baits before packaging for extra strength. The plastisol is heated slowly in a microwave then place on a hot plate.MF was the only brand that stayed clearest the longest. Eventually it will yellow. Oil/cut bags- never had a cut bag from MF- never! I have not experienced liquid oil in bags. Baits have gotten slippery. Now if you salt you baits and put them in bags,the problems w/ gooey baits appears after 6-9 months.Salt attracts moisture. I use hanging racks to cure some of my baits while others lay flat on H.D. cardboard to cure.Tube bait tails,externally salted after injecting w/ MF (and other brands of plastisols)and packaged,will MOST definitely result in a gooey mess 5-9 months down the road.I've had the same gooey mess w/ other brands of plastisol and salted.packaged tubes,craws worms and creature baits.I don't store finished tubes in plastic bags,nor do I salt them until I'm ready to ship & package. I do not use any external salt before packaging other baits.I add a bit of scented worm oil for slip and ease of packaging. I hope my detailed response satisfies your curiosity as well as answering you questions.Do I like the higher price associated w/ MF- NO!!! Do I like the results w/ less aggravation-YES!! It's a trade off for sure.I have specifically avoided mentioning other brands of plastisols that I have extensive experience using,since it will start another discussion that easily gets out of hand. One man's poison is another man's passion!

Frank, I'm not interested in a pissing contest.I speak from using hundreds of gallons from various manufacturers-not gallons. Yes- MF plastisol will release oil over time and i have found a way to deal w/that through experimentation.I shoot 1000's of laminated swim-baits a year and demand a white base to enhance the natural,iridescence flash of a real bait fish when I 'm finished. Plastisols that yellow and /or turn slightly amber under prolong heat(even w/ mechanical pot stirrers,temps from 305-315 and added stabilizers) are not for me.MF was the only plastisol to do this using hand injection and the heat associated w/it. Lure craft, Chemionics, Spike-it and Calhoun's could not give me the results i wanted.All of the aforementioned names worked well for darker colors.I don't have time for baits that remain sticky for 2-3 days after shooting. To each his own-Peace!

Consistency , dependability, non -yellowing,no settling w/o any bubbles and a non-sticky finished product (no matter how old the product is) determines my plastisol preferences.I've heard all the excuses why various plastisols bubble and one settles out like concrete. I have experienced the aforementioned problems over the years.Time is money in business and I adamantly refuse to babysit & deal w/ raw product annoyances before I even make the finished soft-bait products . Learning how to re-use various colored sprues / cut-offs will greatly reduce your initial plastisol price. To each his own-peace

MF doesn't bubble-period!

MF hardener is the easiest to us in my experience. It pours easily and can be added any time

I made many of these back in the early 90's. Trial and error showed me I had to use a shrink tube over the flexible cable then slide into a crimping sleeve then crimp.if you didn't the flexible wire would kink and eventually break @ the junction point of the crimping sleeve and cable. They work very well but are time consuming to make. I charged $5-$5.50 per s.b. back then but do not have the time nor inclination to make them again. The flexible cable allows you to slow roll or sub- surface bulge w/out the s.b. rolling over. They have a very good hook-up ratio. I 've caught 5lb.+ LMB w/ the entire s.b. inside their mouths slow rolling.

Carolina Pumpkin w/ chartreuse

Bear's Ultra fine salt and reptile sand mixed DOES NOT make a weaker wacky worm. Course salt does! I'm happy for you gents that think a clear bait catches more fish . I sell 1000's of laminates w/ the aforementioned mix.Absolutely no damage to the injectors and/or "O" rings. BTW- the Shooting Star System w/ a mechanical stirrers is the deal to keep the mix w/ glitter suspended for consistent/weighted,laminated worms

Here's your answer- I've been using them for 10 years https://agsstainless.com/shoppingcart/Cable-Cutters-for-cable-rail-installation&currency=USD&language=en?gclid=CIDliPHNgcwCFcRahgodveYODw

Three basic choices- 1-use a presto pot w/ stirrer 2- heat,let cool ,stir re-heat w/ a lower temp setting in 1-2 minute intervals using a micro wave 3-Use MF plastisol for consistent performance

NAPA auto parts store

Getting a professional CNC injection mold the 1st time saves $ and they produce excellent results

Keep your UN-painted jig heads in a sealed zip lock bag before painting or seal coating.No air = no oxidation Those that oxidize for whatever reason go into the trash can.

What diameter is the wire?

You can make your own wire forms and formed eyes w/ a good wire bender. Various diameters/lengths are readily available from Worth, Jann's , Barlows and Do-it.

That's why they can spider web,fragment and explode-all in a matter of seconds. Borosilicate glass is a type of glass with silica and boron trioxide as the main glass-forming constituents. Borosilicate glasses are known for having very low coefficients of thermal expansion , making them resistant to thermal shock, more so than any other common glass. http://www.snopes.com/food/warnings/pyrex.asp http://lajollamom.com/pyrex-glassware-explodes/

They are extremely flimsy- beyond flexible.I used to use them for mixing but as you know,I'm a fan of the Shooting Star System.All my plastic is heated in borosilicate measuring cups then poured into the s.s. system. Edited to add: Borosilicate glass is a type of glass with silica and boron trioxide as the main glass-forming constituents. Borosilicate glasses are known for having very low coefficients of thermal expansion , making them resistant to thermal shock, more so than any other common glass.

I.M.O. and experience, the Norpro silicone cups( which I have and used) are an accident waiting to happen. These cost more but won't shatter when exposed to quick heating and quick cooling- http://www.containerstore.com/s/kitchen/food-prep/mixing-measuring/borosilicate-glass-measuring-cups/123d?productId=10000652

Dave, I was involved in a trademark-cease and desist 30 years ago. I hired a patent and trademark attorney who handled the original trademark application. The name and logos were original and the T&P office in Washington searched the name and logos on the application.They said that a exclusive trademark would be issued if there were no objections. Kaboom- the last day before it would have been issued a company w/ very deep pockets objected. Long story short- an additional $5500. in legal fees. My T&P attorney said,"We'll win this if we go to Washington to plead our case." I asked what the cost would be- he said 20K- 20 thousand dollars!~!!!! I sucked-it up and changed the name and trashed the logos. I can't imagine what the cost today would be to fight a patent infringement suit. If you lose,you are liable for the legal expenses for both sides. Note to all the lawyer wannabees on TU- You better have 10's of thousands of $ to waste if you wish to take on Strike King lures and the ability to produce enough baits to cover your legal expenses whether you win/lose.. Patents and trademarks are expensive and very tricky subjects.BTW- there are very good crayfish imitations that catch bass w/out interfering w/ the Strike King-rage tail patent.

Absolutely!!You can lead a horse to water,but you can't force him to drink.Why even bother to show them where the trough is?? Many on TU want all the secrets/free info attained through $ and time invested from experienced MFGS. The typical gimme crowd doesn't have the respect to say a simple thank you for your helpful information while saving me $ and time.Unfortunately, it's back to "read only'' on TU. The self- proclaimed TU experts can carry on.

I mix reptile sand (from PETCO- it's the whitest,finest sand you'll ever find on the planet)) & ultra-fine salt from Bear's-50/50(you may want a modified % of each in the mix.) 1-2 TBL. per cup of plastisol to your desired sink rate.The finer the salt/sand mix- the stronger the worm. I tried powdered salt but didn't care for the color change associated w/it.Salt and sand will stiffen up the worm a bit so soft plastisol is recommended and some softener may be required in your mix.Hold your finished product( by the tip of the head) and an original Senko side by side w/ your index finger and thumb to compare their flexibility. Now all you have to do is experiment w/ the aforementioned info that took a great deal of time to develop over the years. Good luck and have fun EDITED TO ADD: My salt/sand mix has never scratched my internal injector or quad "O" rings