bassguy
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Everything posted by bassguy
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I've also found you don't really need to clean the gun with the cleaner between paint changes. I've used an eye dropper kind of like a plunger if you get my drift. I fill the dropper and place the tip in the paint cup and then press the bulb to force the water into the cup. Then release the bulb and it will siphon the water back to the dropper. I do that 3 or 4 times to get the majority of the paint out. Spray clean water through the brush several times to clean. After I've finished painting for the evening, I then clean the brush with cleaner and so on.
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Here is a link to photobucket. Just click here.
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I've used the .072 ss screw eyes but were 1 1/4 inches long and used 3/32nd ss bearing stock for the hinge pins. The hole in the screw eye is just a gnats eyelash over 3/32nds so it works great.
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Some seriously sharp knives as well. I just sat in awe watching him carve those baits.
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Doesn't a stencil leave a hard line? I've used "stencils" I've made from card board for stripes and held them off the bait a tad to fog them in.
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I hear that Sonny, the only thing I really don't like about it; it will bog down if you feed it too fast but other than that it will flat out knock out the baits. I usually rough out my baits with a coping saw (don't have a bandsaw) then go from there. I've got the little green one, table top guy. Jerry
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Yeah, they do look like pencil lines. I've been using the thin circuit board material for the diving bills. I have been leaning toward the thicker Lexan material and that slot would probably be close to an eighth of an inch. Jerry
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I have a 1X30 belt sander which works for roughing the baits to shape prior to carving. $45 at Harbor freight, couldn't beat that with a stick.
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Dave, in the pictures the lip slot was cut on both blanks prior to carving, but I guess what I didn't make clear was, symmetry. If the bait isn't perfectly symmetric, the problem is still there, at least for me. I failed to mention what BobP was talking about, however I did not want to hijack the thread.
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The center line aspect works well but I still have a problem with the bill being perpendicular to the bait. Here is a picture of rough prior to carve to pre-paint after sand. You can still see the center line mark.
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Thanks for the info. I've used the cheap blue tape but I got bleed through onto the bill and regular masking tape which left the adhesive residue.
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I'm with you on this Ben, works like a charm. Just gotta talk the wife out of her stockings. lol
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Devcon 2 Ton ...how Many Coats Do You Typically Apply?
bassguy replied to buckwheat12n's topic in Hard Baits
Just one coat. Applied liberally all over the bait, nose to tail, smooth strokes. -
If that was your first attempt, I want to look over your shoulder next time you finish a bait. WOW!
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Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets
bassguy replied to Ken-Spin's topic in Hard Baits
I was thinking about the styrofoam that you find in stereo packing, maybe the same stuff. I found the formula but it is for sealing wooden baits prior to paint. Sorry. They use the 3 ounce white solo cups and lacquer thinner. -
Be sure and thin your paint to the consistency of milk, this really helps with the paint application.
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Melting Plastics In Acetone - Not Propionate Pellets
bassguy replied to Ken-Spin's topic in Hard Baits
I recall a formula that would use the clear plastic cups broken up in acetone that could be used as a plastic-type coating. I have it around somewhere, I just have to find it....lol Or could you use polystyrene (styrofoam) melted in acetone? -
Anytime you have service like that it should be told. Good words always helps great service. Jerry
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I doesn't hurt. I have a fine layer of dust all over my shop. I used a small free standing 1" belt sander to rough out the shape for me. Whoa, dusty!!
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The material at Home Depot is white and looks like a brick molding, it can be bought in 8 foot lengths and is around 12 to 15 dollars, and you can make a bunch out it.
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I like to use a brand new pencil eraser on a typical #2 pencil. For the iris, I use the eraser shaped to the size I need. Razor knife and sandpaper works great to shape the eraser.
