Yake Bait
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Everything posted by Yake Bait
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Wow, super looking bait. Great photography too. -
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Your foil baits are pretty unique and intersting. Thanks for sharing and keep em coming!
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An allen wrench small enought to fit into the screw eye and with the long end chucked in your cordless drill does the trick nicely.
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Good tip on the safety glasses. Those wire chunks really can fly if you are not careful!
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This one was intended for muskies but proved to be more attractive to pike. Caught a number of mid to small sized pike on this one. Was made with minimal ballast weight to allow it to be ripped over shallow weed tops. Link to the bait: http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=787 -
This one was intended for muskies but proved to be more attractive to pike. Caught a number of mid to small sized pike on this one. Was made with minimal ballast weight to allow it to be ripped over shallow weed tops. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=787 -
Here is the lure... http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=1313 Pretty obvious imitation of a 9" big game (one of my favorite lures). This was a pretty good bait in September. Had one other fish that was caught on this along with two or three others that smacked it and didn't get a good hookset. Overall I was pleased with the durability as compared to the balsa baits that I was replacing although I have some teeth marks in the finish and a chunk of epoxy that chipped off when hitting a rock while fishing. The water body in the first photo is on the border of UP and WI - Brule Backwaters AKA Paint Pond. -
Looking to get more ideas on how to make bucktail skirts. I made a batch of large double blade bucktails with flahabou skirts. I used some 0.040" wire that I coiled over a small nail to form the base for the skirt, then using my fly tying vise, I tied on the material with kevlar thread. Havign done this, I'm guessing there is an easier or more efficient way to make the base. Are there any types of lure bodies that can be bought thay you tie the material onto instead of coiling your own wire? How important is it that the skirt spin freely on the wire shaft. Some of my tails are a bit tight as far as ability to rotate freely on the shaft. Not sure if this makes any kind of difference in how the skirt might tangle up with the middle hook.
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Pair of muskies caught on home made 9" twitch bait. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=1313
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Pair of muskies caught on home made 9" twitch bait. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=1313 -
Haven't tried it but I am sure that it should work the same as on 0.052" Thanks!
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Pete Yake from Iron Mountain, MI. I fish primarily for muskies. I started making my own baits last year and in large credit to the information that I got from this website (taking). Started this winter with making some bucktails. Took awhile to get the hang of making good wire loops so I put a tutorial together on the wire bait forum. Here is a link (giving back)... http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11009
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This is a method that can be used to bend loops in bare wire for making in-line spinners. Credits to gldnbear93 for sending me some photos of how he does wire loops in hard baits. I adapted his technique for making the loop in bare wire. Enjoy! You will need needle nose, round nose, needle vice grips, standard vice grips, and side cutters. Ice cold Linenkugles is optional but highly recommended.. The round nose pliers are hard to find in your local hardware store but are key to making good loops. Knipex make a good set of heavy duty round nose pliers and you can find them by doing a search for "Knipex round nose pliers" on the web. Bend a 45 degree angle in the wire leaving about 2.5" to work with on the end. The more you leave on the tag end, gives you the leverage you need to wrap the wire so don't cut yourself short. Using the round nose pliers, wrap working end of wire around the pliers. The initial grip should be tight to the 45 degree bend you just made. When you get about 1/2 way around the pliers, you will need to release your grip, rotate, and regrip with the pliers to allow the wire to fully wrap the jaws of the pliers. Clamp the loop with needle nose vice grips perpindicular to the wire shaft then clamp the tag end with regular vice grips. Make about 3 wraps around the wire shaft with the tag end. Again, leaving more to work with on the tag end gives you leverage and allows you more control to keep nice tight wraps stacked together. Cut off extra with side cutters.
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First attempt at making bucktails. Used 0.062" wire and heavy duty hardware with #10 colorado blades. Pretty much a shameless imitation of a double cowgirl. -
First attempt at making bucktails. Used 0.062" wire and heavy duty hardware with #10 colorado blades. Pretty much a shameless imitation of a double cowgirl. -
If you want a bait that has some belly roll, go with a dense hardwood for the reasons already stated above (instability). You don't need much lead to sink a maple hardwood plug. Hooks, hardware, and final epoxy do affect bouyancy I have had trouble overshooting how much lead to add to these types of baits. If you prefer a bit more stability, use a larger bit with shallower hole to keep the center of gravity low. Heavy gauge hooks can add a stabilizing effect also.
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I tried one this spring using a foil base, white belly, then mixed some pearlized gold with a few drops of black to get a goldish brown color. Topped with some transparent brown to get the right shade and accent the gills. If I do another one I would use more green and black. I took some photos of crappies that I caught this spring to try and duplicate sometime again. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=674
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I make more twitch baits than deep diving cranks so the line tie is in the body of the bait as opposed to the lip. If you do deep diving cranks, you would need to wire the line tie in or screw the lip in as described above. For twitch baits you can epoxy the lip into the body of the bait. Drill two or three 3/16" holes through the lexan where it fits inside of the slot in the bait. Then using a razor knife, etch the surface of the lexan, the more you etch, the better the bond. When applying epoxy, make sure that plenty of it gets into the lip holes and also in the slot.
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To be honest I was more kidding than serious because I think you wanted a lure to catch walleye, not one that looks like a walleye. If you are interested, check out the link to the lure below. It is a 7" twitch bait made with cedar. I don't troll with it but suspect it would run 6 to 10' depending on how much line you have out. Lip design could be modified to achieve more or less depth. I generally throw bigger lures for musky, but have often caught incidental walleye catches on big baits, especially when night fishing. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=1399
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How about something like this? http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=545
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Woodieb8 hit the nail on the head. 0.062" is less likely to bend.
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Pics are great and thank you!
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Bear93, Good description. If I could get the photos, that would be great too. I pm'd my email address to you. Thanks
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That is awesome Norway Pike. Makes for a very clean looking loop.
