Yake Bait

Thanks Cadman. You are correct that I am looking at stainless wire. For starters, I am looking towards making some bucktails and topwater baits this winter so this is just a straight wire with loops on either end. I've got some 0.040" wire and can do this relatively easily but haven't worked with 0.062" yet. Not looking to mass produce anything, just want to tinker by hand.

I did a search but found limited info on bending loops in 0.062" wire. The forming tools do not work beyond 0.051". Did find a thread that referenced using round nose pliers and vice grips. Would be interested in more info on "how to" Thanks, Pete

Ive cut back on the bait making since the musky opener. I did make one bait last month to replace a favorite store bought lure that was on it's last leg. Turned out to be one of my go to lure this September. Feel free to stop by and check out the router set-up sometime. My phone # is in the book. GO MOUNTAINEERS!!!!

Can't comment on how well a dremel tool would work as I have not tried it. If you have a router witouth a table, you may want to try this... Just a piece of 1/4" lexan fitted to the top of my router which serves as a table. The router is held in place by my workbench vise. Works great.

A buddy of mine has access to a lathe this winter. Together we are thinking about making some topwater lures during the off season. Wondering what methods are used to bore the center hole out on a topwater lure for the wire to go through. I know that it needs to be dead center and on axis of plug as it is turned on the lathe, but that is about all I know about it... Thanks, Pete

Not sure how this translates to foam lures but what I have done with wooden lures is this: Prime lure and mount hardware (hooks and all). You want to be as close to the final weight distribution of the lure as possible to best determine where to place the weight. Take the lure into the sink and using a finger on each side, find the spot where you can sink the lure while keeping it's back flat to the horizon. This may differ slightly from where you would balance the lure in the air since bouyancy differences of the materials and distribution of materials in the bait will make it float differently than it balances. Mark this spot and drill out the hole for placing the lead. If you epoxy coat, this will make the bait slightly less bouyant so use slightly less lead than what it takes to get desired bouyancy at the primed stage. When in doubt, favor more forward placement of lead vs back. This allows the bait to "back up" when you stop cranking which is handy for bouncing off structure.