kelly

I taping oil on the pull pins. any light oil will work. I use a flame to heat my jigs to paint most of the time unless i am doing production. there has not been any problems. the pull pins might have deformed ends if you can buff the ends with a buffer or a dremel. it tends to make the slip out if there is still a problem taper them using light sand paper twisting back and forth. don't forget to buff them after.

I do the same as half of you. I put down a peace of white paper. get my split ring pliers and start busting them out they clean out nice. also the water to cool helps you bake them any way. then the chips of paint on the paper, I add them to my crawdad colors for the big flake look. It looks good!!! also the colors you use on top of your trout look good on top of a hot jig. nice speckled look!

good job!!!! I like to see all the ways people come up with. the threads might make it easy to take apart.

my dark colors have the same problem when I start. but I use a paper clip bent flat and rub it on the bottom until the filter is almost pluged until it flows correctly.

I can under stand the frustration. on my bigger fluid beds I have been using a 30 gal air comp. to supply the beds. the aquarium pump should supply 2" beds or smaller. have five 4" beds with different colors and a valve on each cup to reg. each bed, and use the paper bag.

I gess the only set back is the epoxy seting up faster.

No holes. if you take the bag and put it on your lips you can blow threw it. And it is the lunch sack 2"x4" and 8" tall. I also use alot less air than i did with the coffee filter.

I am starting to make hard baits. I have one that mite sound different. hot air rises and expands, cold air is thick and falls. If you heat the lure with your hair dryer first then coat it the cooling lure would (suck) the epoxy to it. I don't have the experence just an idea?

yes you can epoxy it and paint on it with any other paint. on the fluid bed do a search fluid bed. the only other rec. is to use ABS pipe coupling and a good 1/4 water valve. for the filter use the brown paper bags that are used for sack lunches. donkcj2 has a fluid bed on his site.

thank you. I have learned alot here I owe every one on this site for all tricks.

that is the same thing i am talking about. but that one is $30.00 plus shiping. theres is presher fitted as well. the only diff. is the one you make your self is free if you already have the blades. as you can see theres have the blades in it as well.

get a peace of wood (2x4) or whatever you have around. get 10 razer blades (stanley) comes to mind (box cuter).and slivers of wood (popsicel sticks). stack the 11 sticks and 10 blades together. cut a peace of wood 1/8" smaller than the stack. put the stack on top of that. cut 2 peices of wood that hight. use 4 bolts to hold all of it together. you need to drill 2 holes threw the 3 blocks of wood and 2 to cradle the blades. it will look like a razer sanding block. oil the blades set the tube on it and cut using another block of wood. good luck i hope you under stand what im trying to say no pictures.

sounds like you do need a vent richoc was talking about. take a razer blade and cut a small v in the location of the short to the out side of the mold to let the air out. don't give up once you have it down the you will be able to make them any time you want and not wait on some one else!!!

there is a the chance that it needs to be hotter. spinnerbaits are hard to pour under the pot. if you can make it a little hoter and use a latle to pour. Just put the latle in the lead so it gets hot and fill it up out the bottom. that way you will not have to get anther pot. I wish i was there the help you threw the problems. there is other things that could be wrong like did you heat the mold leaving it on top of your pot or pouring blanks ????

I should be more descriptive. it is the brown paper sack 8" tall 4"x2" square. used for a sack lunch. nice job on the fluid bed donkjc2!!

you mite be be better off drilling a lot of holes putting shot in the holes and gluing aluminum can pieces to the sides.

I leaned how to make my fluid bed here at TU. so you all should know I found a new filter. the brown paper bag you get from the store (sack lunch). it is the best i have found so far. the coffee filter had a lot of problem boiling and geting pluged and making a dust storm. it is the only cheap filter that dose the job right. I make mine with ABS pipe coupling glued to a flat peace of pipe. and a water valve drilled in the side. ps I have tested it for a while and it still works. This is for all the problem people are having with the coffee filter.

use a brown paper bag for the filter the one you get from the store. less boiling, less air and less mess. i have tried the coffee filter and made a big mess. had to plug the filter before it wound work right.

ps i also use ABS 2" coupling $.52 2' peace of 2" pipe $1.95 a water line valve $4.95 use the good valve. I am only cheap when I can be. cut 4" off the pipe and cut one side boil it and flaten it out. glue it to the bottom of the coupling drill a hole for the valve just under the center line screw the valve in add the air line. get another 4" peace of pipe brown bag it put it in the coupling. that is as cheap as i can make it.

I have seen every one keep saying coffee filter coffee filter. I started with the same thing and made a mess used more paint than before. You would have to plug the filter before it would work. The grocery store brown bags (lunch sack). they work a lot better. less air no spiting. it also works well for the large production beds. as long as there is a wire mesh under it holding it level.

Good job. I had my wife read it and she said. I should say more then just roll my eyes.

there is colored hot glue used for fly tying to make fish egg patterns. layer that in the warm mold then squeeze the mold together.

dip it in hot water at the end of sanding. the grain will rise fast sand with fine sand paper to get the ridges. the only set back you dry them with a hair dryer or have to be calm and let them dry. but went your lure get smacked and slammed it wont deform as easy.

dremel. you can cut a lot of detal. even with a drill bit put your initiles on the other side.

the problem painting alot of spiner baits at one time and painting the hook. i use a cookie sheat with water in the bottom pull the heated rack out of your oven dip when the hook tuch the bottem stop and powder paint. the water evaps before you dip it. no scaping needed. went i do one at a time i use a spunge.