kelly

Throw out the coffee filter and use paper. It has smaller holes evening out the air flowing threw the paint.

Speechless as I read this. I bow my head In honer and respect for Bruce. I would also thank Bruce's family for supporting a great man. RIP Bruce!

I have this mold to and use it for more that one thing as well. cz75b try to use tooth picks in the holes when you paint them you can glob the paint and drip and make a mess and still have open eyes.

The r bend is bent on the two pins using the bottom of the bar that you spin around, not the grove that is cut in it. First you bend a 35 deg. angle then reverse it on the bender so its bent around the pin the opposite direction the it was bent then turn it making the half moon. to repeat it bend the first 35 deg angle flip it over then bend the half moon.

Good little bender. Over the Hagen's it would be my second choice in bending tools. You can only bend .025 - .036 wire unless you get an adapter for up to .041. For large mouth small mouth and trout, it would be perfect for that. I feel that you don't need bigger wire for larger fish but others don't fill that way. Most use 0.051 wire for musky. But if you catch one on .031 wire it would be deformed big time but not broken. You need to think a little to make r bends but easy to do. The twisted eye is better any way. I have made any bend I can make on my Hagen's but the Hagen's will bend a bigger variety of wire sizes.

I think you might be surprised how much time you might put into one building it your self. But in this hobby I my self has spent long hours making something that was "to hard to build". So if I was going to build one I would use mild steel for most of it then the where points I would use a peace of file. But you need to educate you self on annealing, hardening and tempering. Those three things you need to work with the file or you can hurt you self with a flying splinter of steel trust me they are not fun to dig out. I could see you making one with two bolts, rolled pins, file, any thick steel and some flat stock. I wish you luck and post your progress I will help you where I can as well as any one else on the forum.

I can see the time you put in to those. Only the best from you. Thank you for sharing I have always enjoyed your art work. Is you next set going to a art museum?

As a review on the twist-tech I have a sickness for wire so I just had to try it. The number one thing that stood out was that the two studs to start the loops were stationary so when you bent the loop the main wire did not pull into it making the eye more accurate. Bending wire forms for your do it molds with a wire bent to measure the constant loops made them easy to make. I like the way the loops are formed. The negative thing about it is the sizes of wire you can use .025 - .037. When I bent the .026 wire there was still a little tag end that need to be removed. I have owned all of the wire benders the little blue bender is good for wire forms because I don't fill bad about drilling holes all over it. The Hagen's still the best all around usefulness. The boggs was given away to a starter, never liked that one a pain to use sticking my self with hooks every time I get in a hurry. The Little tackle tool got parked pretty quick only because I had good tools when I got them but the book is worth the price think of it like you get a free tool with the book.

jblaze is correct the Hagen's is the best for the money. And is the most useful. To add to this comment the first thing I would bend would be the two coils. Bent them just like you would a spinner but the long wire would be the tag end, Twist the loop about 12 to 15 times. Next cut off the eye of the loop and pull out the center wire witch would have been to hold the beads if you were making the spinner. You now have a set of coils on both ends of the wire. Hold them with a pair of pliers in the position you will want them. Bent the center over the twister of the Hagen and start spinning until you get the the braided/twisted look you want. On the leader part it looks like they just used crimps (used to make wire leaders) to position the hangers.

Forgot to mention in the hard bait section there is people pouring plastic that hardens for baits. There making there own molds two. Do a search and use what you like or can get just use a clamp the do-it mold to hold the mold shut and keep in mind there is drying time don't mix to much up at a time. use something to release the mold also like Vaseline. Two make it a little heaver to your weight wanted pour one then add a lead sinker to it until the weight needed. then crimp the lead to the hook before you pour.

I love that jig. good pic hawnjigs I like that hook also. I see you are still using one size larger in the matzuo hook. Phillip Just as a experiment I have used pluming solder to make jigs with the needs you specify and it worked very well but expensive. In a post one or two years back there was a gentlemen injecting hot glue into a mold with a hot glue gun to make jig heads. just don't set in the sun after you make them on on the dash of the truck. There would be a lot of wasted work.

Jblaze I am impressed with your refining of the tool I made and I have always wanted to make screw locks like that. I am going to put that at the top of my to do list this winter. You posted this at the time I was laid off from my job as a general manger of a trucking company. Immediately diverting all of my time to starting my own company. I missed this beautiful peace of information. Thank you for sharing your twist with all of use. I will be using this my self. Thanks fish for bumping this post.

V-man your saw blade is cutting perfectly straight leaving the tooth marks but if you tip the grinder 15 or 20 degrees it will be cutting on an angle not leaving the groove in the middle of the blade. That should leave a rounder cut not the 60 deg. angle of the teeth. The one thing is you would need to experiment on the angle to get the cut to disappear. But that is your specialty. The grinder route is the same I followed. Have all my parts sitting weighting for me. I think when I have time I will go with something similar to Jerry's idea With the tipping board. What are the RPM your grinder is running at? Just double check the blade tolerance.

Haven't been around much lately have been starting a new business. That tends to consume every last desire. But I get on about once a week to check things out and I see this. Good job v-man. I feel a rounder cutter would make less work in the end. But not a completely round one. Just rounded edges. The tip you have could be honed down to a slight rounded cutting edge. Probably app. 1/16 of an inch (I know our stinken inch not metric) rounded on the edge to match up with the previous cut. If you made a tool with wood to hold the bit, the angle would match on both sides. I would think you have a stone for sharpening your knives. There is a bit that looks like a porky pine that might cut a little rounder. Some thing that would be fun would be to add a flat guide instead of a round one. Then add a third axis so it tips back and forth with the length of the bait? But still limit the movement so it would not tip over. That way a flat cutter would follow the contour of the bait. Come to think of it that would not work on your design because they are followed on opposite angles but it would work it they were on the same plane. (following the same angle) I left this just for ideas. On the clamping of the cutting peace I think stay simple and cut a peace of plywood in the shape of a square c then cut a peace that is the exact size of the in side of the c. Put a hinge on the two peaces to make a door. The out side can be screwed in place after it is aliened the in side would hold the blank guide in place. Then make a door lock similar to the ones you see on a enclosed work trailer. That way you grab a blank set in there and when you close the (door) it will lock it in place. Speeding up the reloads. We both know the point of it is faster is better. By the way did you add counter weight to the guide end or is all the router weight on the master? I also think you should leave the router going as fast as possible. Slowing down would add chatter.

If you squish a small amount of clay around the swivel hole it might be a quick fix but a pain if you are pouring hundreds. I would jb it if that is the case.

bojon You are right about the heating of the wire with the lead bath. The lead helps heat even at a lot of heat ranges before it boils. You can get some high temps with it. But the main reason for the use of lead is to stop the oxidizing of the metal. Delw you are right also, even aluminum pipe has lead added to it. If you play with lead every thing needs the warning just in case.

That very moment is when I learned what true love is. Congratulations on your blessing.

Do-it Molds: Buzz-Spin Lure Well if you want something closer the buzz bait is shaped like that. Heart shaped and flat. Just put a hook in and not a wire form. Only a little cutting for the hook eye will be needed.

The cabelas wobble head mold is my favorite mold. But like cadman said use soft lead and it will preform well. I have three of those molds and have modified two of them with success. One using a screw lock. I haven't modified the hook eye to the tip of it yet. I have some carlisle 3/0 hooks sitting on the bench for that purpose. They sill need to be bent slightly to fit in the mold. The draw back for what you are asking for is the tip is not tapered very much It is pretty round. Its also cupped or bent back similar to a spinner blade. The weeds will most likely hang up on the front next to the eye of the hook. If you wanted to fill the mold with JB weld to taper it more It might make what you are looking for. If you are stuck on that exact shape I fill you need to have a custom mold made or try to cut one your self. As for work to get that mold the way you want it you will cut the eye in the front and bend a hook to fit. Then cut a slot for the screw lock. Then JB weld the taper in the mold and JB the plastic keeper and JB the old eye. I wish you luck on what ever you choose to do. But doing the modifications to the wobble head mold, on this one endeavor and you will learn a lot that you will use in the future.

One place you might not have thought of is a cast aluminum engine block, transfer case, any cast aluminum. But not aluminum cans that is low quality aluminum. Make a square mold in the dirt (dig a hole)sand mixed with a small amount of oil works but smokes bad. If you just dig a hole the ground it needs to be Farly dry! or the aluminum boils! Use up most caution here. (lead melt safety) times that by five. Melt the aluminum in a cast iron pot and dump it in the hole. Now you have a block to machine flat and work with. To get the fire hot enough to melt the aluminum. A peace of 1/2 black pipe hooked to a air supply will stoke the fire very hot. The end of the pipe needs to be in the bottom of the fire.

That is a cool idea. thanks for posting. I like the name tornado tamer like you said rolls off the tongue.

If you take the wire and make one loop. Then leave the pliers in the loop wrap the wire around the shaft. The trick is to straighten the wire after the loop is made. If the wire is to heavy you will probably want two pliers one round nose the other needle nose smooth jaws. Like every thing else practice makes perfect.

Thank you basseducer, I have been looking forward to that. I was hoping you did but did not want to push. My life gets in the way at times also. It is a lot steeper of angle that what I have been making. After this thread I have decided there is new found outlook on making spinner baits for me. Making them just to wobble not grasping the idea that they can spine on that angle. But that steep of wire and the water resistance would push the blade back just far enough to spin. I like the way you have them spaced also. The second one helps the brain turn even more. Again, thank you for posting the picks. kelly

Live Bait Erie Jig JNE-5-A I would just add the eye to the front of this mold. Its easier to do than you think. Plus you would have a multipurpose mold. There is no collar on this mold. If you already file the top of the jig it takes half of a stroke to get rid of the molded lead eye.

Cant use corn to fish with here in Utah. The trout cant digest it plugging them up and killing them slow. Hot dogs and bread dose work but for bait there is two things we use if we are fishing for catfish and carp. Old fashioned worms and a mix of whatever crap you can find for free. Like a liver, oatmeal and shrimp mixed together. heck if you have a bug problem mix them in. The trick is to tie any kind of mesh (plastic or cloth) to the hook making a bait ball. Using a small string tyeing a knot on bottom inside out, smash the bait on then pulling the bag over the bait then tyeing a not on top. Make Shir it will fit in the fishes mouth. Put on a bubble and cast it out. It lets out particles like your chumming. Let it sit a bit then jerk the like letting it bleed out a little more out. All that sent in the water makes them go nuts. Just remember use what ever you can find for free. Crackers, any thing bloody, other fish, crawdad, last nights meatloaf, fish eggs, cooked eggs, peanut butter, cheese be creative. I would not recommend you using the blender you eat from but a wooden spoon to smash and break up everything.