kelly

some info all of use can use! Timber Health Hazards Toxic Woods List Some side effects look ruff.

When you find you self in a suite and Tye business meeting wearing a tackle underground hat and doodling your next lure plans on documents. Having to sneak out the documents from the meeting because of all you hard work doodling.

Nice I can see me using that jig for more than what you have showed me today. Thanks for the lesson.

The point of a vise for me is how much can you get for your money. One that I like for a vise under $100.00 is the griffin Odyssey spider vice. It is a rotary vice . Once you use the rotary feature you might wonder what you did with out it. You can also up grade it with add ons or accessories. I am using the Montana mongoose. I think the company is a head of the competition.

A little lesson in metal. There are three steps. First you are going to soften the wire hook. Heat up some lead drop a peace of metal in it. Like a clip off a wheel weight. heat it until it is red. put the hook in the lead holding it under the lead it will float. Pull it out and let it cool slow (set it down and leave it alone). The lead acts as protection to stop the oxidizing process. If you do not see the right temperature. Find a magnet when a metal peace looses the magnetic pull its hot enough. Bend away When you have what you want you need to temper it that is done in two steps. First heat the lead back up the the same temp. Red hot or magnetic loss. Get a bath of old oil in a old pan will work. You want your oil to be hot for a more controlled cool. 200 deg. will be close enough. Heat the hook up for a minute then drop it in the oil. If you do to many it will burn the oil so be safe. If you use water there is a chance it will cool to fast putting stress cracks in the metal making a weak hook. At this point the hook is very very brittle. Don't drop it or bent it. Next cool your lead down to about 700 deg. Most lead melts just below that. All salvaged lead will melt at a different temp. I like to stop just as a layer of crust forms on the surface. Put your hooks back in holding them under the lead. Leave them there for two or three minutes. pull them out and let them cool. Theres your custom hook. There is a balance of being hard or flexible. Hard brakes easy and flexible bends easy. The trick is to find the balance to the metal that you are using. The most important step is the temp of the lead in the last step. Use a inferred thermometer if you need to. Most manufactures still use lead to temper there wire. I little trick you might like is to hold the hook just under the water with the point and the barb just barley out of the water. Have to use water on this step (using fire). Heat the point of the hook with a Minny torch then submerge the hook harding the tip a little more that the rest of the hook. Sharpen the tip for a truly sharp hook. If you melt lead you should be safe enough to accomplish this. Be safe. Kelly

Had two fingers cut off my self, doc sowed them back on. Best of luck with the recovery. ps beer helps! Its cold on the hand and with a little tape you never need to put it down.

Now that explains a lot!

Ask for another 200 jigs. Pick out the good ones and give back the ones with lead in the eyes. That is the easiest way to fix it that I see. If you have a problem remind him of the product you provided was perfect. Another way would be an exacto knife. wearing a gortex glove (the kind you can buy for cleaning fish). Lead can be cut. Any way you chose will suck. Maybe not the first tip I gave, but good luck.

I think what ever cranks your tractor. Just make shore to remove before you bake. I like to do it three ways what ever I fill like doing at the time. First and favorite way is to stick a ball of modeling putty on the eye, then remove after painting. Second is to just use a eye buster (like split ring pliers) and chip away. Last I like the hot needle to burn threw the eye.

Just a paper one will help. Even your computer paper will be better. The holes in most filters are large to let a larger volume of air threw. Like the coffee filter the holes are to large but are to allow the water to filter threw them. It takes a little longer to let the water drip threw paper. The small brown lunch sacks are my favorite. But the performance of the printer paper is close to the same just thiner.

I think the Cabelas wobble head is the best for rip rap as well. I have three molds and worth every cent. Two are modified with pics to see what I mean. The best one I think would be the screw lock added to help stopping the hook from grabbing a rock. That is JB weld in the spot for the barb making it a little lighter. The flat head seams to pull around the rocks at times deforming but still works. The second pick is the hook reversed so it is more like the gravedigger. Swims deep faster with less weight. It digs in the gravel or sand with out picking up every thing. I like to use it from a boat along sharp drop offs like dams. Buy the mold will be cheaper than buying every jig. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4038&stc=1&d=1231868726 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4039&stc=1&d=1231868726

There could be a couple things. The lead might not be hot enough freezing when it hits the wire. The lead could be to soft try to add hard lead. It could just be the short screw locks. That is why I started to make my own. Try these and post back. We will work on it.

I support bob on the pop can makes a good Tink. I have used a sheet of pop can on a bait using one peace in the middle and two on the sides trying to make the nosiest rattle bait made. Holding about 30 BBS. It was loud enough to hear on the bank. but sunk way to fast. Fun and loud but not usable when your hits are on the stop(falls right to the bottom).

If that is the Case cant you just build two boxes one on top of the other. Keep the paint and top coat in the top box (heat rises), the bottom box (were the heating element is) for the raw baits.

I have the hp-ch and love it! Mainly because it allows a lot of control. Being new to air brushing it helped me do things that would have taken years to learn. There is a valve to control the paint and another to control the air. So you can leave your pressure regulator alone. For a new air brush user that dose not want to up grade later this is a good air brush. If you can air brush with an artist, then any of them are a good choice.

I have used zippo lighter fluid for my vinyl head cement for fly tying. Got that tip from a Friend. He told me thats what they sell you in that expensive little bottle. Just an idea for that problem if you already have it on hand. I have not tried it. I do not like the smell so just use powder.

Have to admit, just looking at it. It looks the goods. I am spraying the iwata high line and love it. But for that price and most of the bells and whistles on there. I would have to agree that it would be worth a try. All the parts look top notch on it. To tell you the truth it sounds like you have already made your choice! Ive read a few reviews on a airbrush site and I think you made a good choice. That is a lot of bang for your buck.

I like that, good share.

This might help a few out on fishing knots. Animated Knots by Grog

I was thinking the tutorials were available to club members only my mistake. I apologize. Thank you.

Bath tub.

If you were to become a Tu member there is a wealth of knowledge it the how to section that very question answered. If it in the tutorials I don't fill its my place to Share. The only thing I am saying is to help keep this site up and going. My self and all others will help you in return. It is a small cost and worth the knowledge. Welcome to Tu!

I would say no but I think you can test it as you carve. I think you would be a long ways a head of the curve if you could find out what shapes start to dampen or make a swim more dramatic. You could also know how to change a swim on a current swim to the swim you want, not just putting up with the one you ended up with.

You might be able to cut a slot in it with a dremel. So you can use a flat screw driver to get it out. I am surprised the extractor its not getting it out. Did you put some penetrating oil (wd-40)on it and let it sit. As a last option you could heat it with a torch but burning off the paint you would have to repaint it. Probably have powder paint any ways right. Be Shir to heat the part not the screw. heat expands. If you can get something to grip. Wrap a paper towel around it (a screwdriver) to act as a heat sink trying to keep the screw cool. Do not heat it to a red if you do it will need to be tempered. If you have heated it to hot. The way you would temper it is heat it to a red, or if its magnetic heat it till it loses the magnetic pull. Cool it fast in oil not water. Any oil the old stuff out of your car. It will burn like fluxing so use protection and out doors. Water makes a steam jacket and at times warps it or cracks it. Then Polish a part and heat it to a blue and let it cool slow. That is app. 700deg. That is two steps. High temp cool fast heat low temp cool slow. Another easy way to get your low temp it to put it in your lead melter for 5 or 10 min. Just after the lead has melted. Then cool slow. If you leave it on the first step it will be brittle and brake easily.

I love to bend wire. If you want to bend the barrel twist vodkaman. Look at my making consistent screw locks. The bender in there is similar to hazmails, but flat. The angle is achieved by a cut with a hacksaw. Just drill the hole the size of the wire and cut an exit slot to remove the wire straight across from the slot thats cut for the angle. Use a screw driver to twist the eye or another peace of wire.I guess if you are making eyes like you vodkaman you do not need to cut an exit slot, Just use it like it is with a smaller hole. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/wire-baits-how/12471-making-consistent-screw-locks-rev-1-0-a.html