mark poulson

I get my medium balsa here: http://www.balsawoodinc.com/

I have no idea what avast safe zone is, but, if I was able to help, hooray!!!

In the past, when I've had problems getting a website to open, I found it was my spyware. When I turned it off, the website loaded fine.

If you have questions about Solarez, they have been really helpful when I contacted them through their website: http://solarez.com/contact-us/ I do use the dual cure resin. I dip my bait in it and hang it with my garage doors shut, and my LED lights off. Once it stops dripping, I wipe the excess off the bottom, and hang the bait in my UV fingernail lite box for three minutes to cure. As Bob said, I do notice a "blush" on dark baits, but it doesn't bother me. Even the light baits are not crystal clear, but they're fine for my use. I haven't tried any of the other resins they sell, so you should probably give them a call to talk about what they recommend for your needs.

Okay, make it 60! Getting back to the OP's problem, sounds like that Alumifoam is a great product. Can it be machined like wood, so ballast and hardware locations can be changed, without ruining the bait?

"Now I will set back and take the rebuke I am sure I will get, justified or not." 50 lashes with a wet noodle!

I'd try it without the glycerin and see if it helps. Maybe you can thin the polytranspar with something else to help with the tip dry.

DoubleT said, "Looks like I will need to increase the size of the pour hole in order for it to hold enough extra resin to fill the mold once under pressure." He's on the right track. Under pressure, as the air is pulled out of the resin it shrinks, so, just like with a bigger sprue in hot plastics, he needs a reservoir of resin that can be pulled down into the mold as the air is pulled out.

I wound up using Baitjunky's plastic and glitter, and additives, too. The owner, Leonard, is very helpful, so don't be shy. Ask him for some advice.

I don't cast baits, but it seems to me, if casting under pressure produces micro bubbles, that would be a good thing. First, there won't be any large bubble voids at or near the surface of the bait, which could cause cosmetic problems or weak spots. Second, if the micro bubbles still rise in the material before it sets, and you pour with the belly down/back up, the bubbles will be higher in the bait, and that will make them more stable, because the back will be more buoyant. But that's just looking at it from an outsider's perspective. People who actually pour resin baits will know a heck of a lot more than I.

I learned that the best way to deal with a "boo boo" is either to ignore it, or to paint over it. I know T shirt paint converts to waterproof above a certain temperature, but I don't get my Createx paint hot enough to keep it from being dissolved by whatever I've tried to use to fix a mistake.

That looks like a snub nosed, weedless darter head. Someone must have that mold, even if you have to snub the nose yourself. Here's a head you could modify: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Gamakatsu_Darter_Heads_5pk/descpage-GDH.html

Frank, That is a really generous offer. I'll pm you.

I'm going to buy some orange when I make my next order, since I don't seem to have the colors or the skill to mix my own. Grrrr!!!!

Dave, Thanks for finding that and reposting it.

I think your idea of an A_mart keeper is a good one. I use them sometimes. I found that I had to keep the fiber keeper short, or it would catch weeds, too.