mark poulson

http://www.barlowstackle.com/FG-30-Fiber-Weed-Guard--P1201.aspx

I run the screw eye in, back it out, put some runny super glue into the hole and us a small wire to get as much as possible down as far as possible. The runny stuff soaks into the wood around the hole, and strengthens it. Then, once the runny stuff has set, I coat the screw eye with gap filling super glue and run it in again. I've never had one fail.

That guy has the patience of Job, and he clearly has never heard of coffee. He is fun to watch.

I like it. It's big enough to make me feel safe, and yet seems to have the capacity to do finer things with the right chisel inserted.

Actually, plethora is a great color!

I have an injector with a locking pin in the nozzle, as opposed to a screw in nozzle, and it is much faster to clean and reshoot. Plus I don't have to worry about the nozzle popping out on the pour.

I've used these magnets and they work well: https://www.apexmagnets.com/1-4-x-1-8-disc

I've found that eyes which fit into recesses will do fine with just a top coat over them to hold them in place, even if they just barely hold with the adhesive they come with. For surface mounted eyes I use a drop of super glue, and then top coat them once the glue has set.

You can drill the holes a little oversized, and use a little JB weld to seat the magnets so you won't fight to get them in without breaking.

If you're planning to sell to CA, don't forget the warning labels and safety instructions.

Would heating the blank before you begin painting help?

When I used Etex a lot, I used Flexcoat syringes to get exact batches every time. The syringes come with a slightly tapered nozzle, so I drilled holes in the top of each component's bottle that were slightly bigger than the nozzle's tip, and that let me leave the syringes in the tops of the bottles when I wasn't using them. To fill, I held them in tight, and turned the bottle over, and then just pulled out as much as I wanted into each syringe. Then I turned the bottle back over with the syringe on top, and removed the syringe, so I could squeeze out the component into my mixing cup. http://flexcoat.com/products/supplies-accessories/color-coded-syringes

You might try using it as a base coat, and then putting your scale netting over it, so that the scale lines will glow afterwards.

IMHO LOL means laughing out loud.

Here's what I do. I dip my brush into a tupperware of clean water and shoot it with the cup submerged for five seconds, then cover the nozzle with my index finger, and backflush for ten seconds, loosen the nozzle, cover it again , and shoot it for ten seconds. Then I tighten the nozzle, remove the needle and wipe it down on a clean rag, reinstall it carefully, check to see if there's any paint left in the bowl (I wipe it out if I need to with my needle rag), and put some clean water with a drop of dishwashing soap into the bowl and backflush again for a second or two, to get any remaining dirty water pushed out by the clean water. Shoot out the clean water, and add my next paint color. It takes me a minute or so each time, but I almost never have to do a big break down and cleaning. Doing it repeatedly has made it faster, and it is routine for me now. Make sure your paint is thinned to skim milk consistency using 4011 or 4012 reducer, and you may have to do more coats, but you'll never have a clogged brush.

The Decon 5 minute epoxy is only water resistant, not water proof like the D2T.

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/softbaitbrand.html?ccode=YAMA Those are the originals. Bass Pro makes a knock off that works, and is cheaper.

I just got four 110+ from Predator. I put (3) #4 KVD EWG short shank trebles with 2mm split rings, and it floats. I haven't painted it yet, but, if I use a light clear coat, I'm sure it will at least suspend, and I can use line choice, mono or fluoro, to make it float, suspend, or sink.

Thank you.

That should have read BRC for the double rattle strap.

If you are not selling your chatterbaits, there is no reason for anyone to pursue you with a cease and desist order. They got a patent to protect their ability to make money from their unique design. Making baits for yourself is not enough of a threat to their income to warrant any action. If you ask them, they will say no, because granting permission to one person would open them up to losing their right to control their patent. But they won't come after you in your garage, just tinkering around.

Wear gloves and eye protection, long sleeves, go slow, and make a dry run before you pour. Having to ad lib with hot lead is a disaster waiting to happen.

Prices vary so much, depending on what you're buying, and the quantity. To begin with, pick one supplier, order your stuff in small amounts+- from them, and learn the basics. Once you've done that, you'll begin to see what you really like and want. I would pick a smaller supplier who specializes in soft plastics to begin with, so you can call them and get their guidance. I like Leonard at Baitjunkys, but there are others who are good, and helpful, too.

The rule of thumb I learned here on TU is hard master/soft mold, and soft master/hard mold. Mold making silicone is the best thing to use with a hard master. But it is relatively expensive. If you go on Larry Dahlberg's website he has a video on how to do it. If you're cheap, like me, you can make a silicone mold for a hard master with the 100% silicone that comes in caulking gun tubes, and then make a dozen baits with hard plastisol to use as masters for your POP mold. This way takes a lot more time than with the mold making silicone. If I had money to spare, I'd use Larry's mold making silicone every time I needed a mold. The 100% caulking gun silicone is hard enough to hold it's shape, but soft enough to let you use a hard master if it's well sealed and smooth, even with reliefs and undercuts. That way, you don't need a lot of expensive silicone mold material. A tube of silicone is like $5+-. If you coat your master with a thin layer, applied with your finger so it gets into all the recesses and details, you can surround that with more silicone that has a couple of drops of water mixed in it, and the silicone will set much more quickly. When you're done, your master will be completely encased in silicone, and you'll have to cut it out once the silicone is set. You should still wait 24 hours before you cut down to the master and remove it, but you'll get a good mold. I make an open top mold box when I do that, and can slip the mold back into the box once it's filled with plastisol to hold it's shape. If you make them with hard plastisol, and coat them with spray PAM before you embed them in the POP, they should last a while. And keep the silicone mold so you can make more soft masters, if you need more.

Thanks.