mark poulson

That's the reason I originally started using Baitjunky's glitter. I posted about my red glitter turning my watermelon/red flake into a brown/orange flake, and Leonard suggested I try his glitter. Problem solved.

Spike-It makes a bond coat that might help you, so you don't have to pour the second layer while the first layer is still soft. I can't get their site to load right now, but it's there.

That looks great!

There was a long thread about this several years ago, but I can't find it with the Search feature anymore. I found that there are several things that are really important. First, keeping the two sections pretty close to the same length. Second, bottom weighting both sections so they fall truly level, and at exactly the same rate. Third, having really free moving hinges. Fourth, for me, having a relatively flat sided bait. Fifth, having a slow sink overall, so you can work the bait at slow speeds without it sinking too deep. These things were passed to me by other members here at TU, and they work. When I wanted to make a glide bait, I bought an S Swimmer, to give me a better idea of what to shoot for.

Back when I first started making baits, I used the rattle can glitter spray. Back then, it would yellow after a bit. I'm not sure it's still that way. Maybe today's stuff has UV protection.

JR Hopkins is a master, for sure!

When I'm putting a line tie into the lip of a crank bait, I do the same thing you do, but I hold the line tie in position by wedging it up from the lip with a piece of toothpick or wood, so it doesn't move while my epoxy is setting. I use the soft sst wire that Bob P recommended. Anything with a temper is too hard for me to work with.

I read that. I never met him, but spoke to him several times on the phone. What a nice guy!

Bob's right about using the biggest hooks you can get away with and not tangle. He's right about most things. Nothing worse than having trebles tangle, or catch the bill on the cast. Also, you have to watch that bigger hooks don't cut down on a bait's action. Having said that, I sometimes make my belly hook larger to get a little "free" ballast, if I have a crank that needs it to be more stable at higher retrieve speeds.

What do you use to thin the ink?

I was just wondering if getting the baits clean enough to paint would affect the foil.

I like a guard with a slight bend. I face it to the rear. I think it helps weeds slide off the jig more easily, and makes me more comfortable using a stiffer weed guard.

Smalljaw, I love your videos! Thanks.

Steve Merlo had a video on Youtube showing how he poured and salted his baits. He was a master. I can't find the link now, but, basically, what he did was sprinkle popcorn salt on the still hot baits, so it soaked in to the belly. He thought it created a salt cloud around the bait that lasted 20 minutes or so, and that was a key for getting bit. I know I've had a fish refuse to let go of a senko when I've tried to shake it off when prefishing, and those are full of salt.

I just wonder if soft lead is too soft for these jigs? I have no idea if they can be poured in harder lead. I've had the wire in the head of spinnerbaits become lose, and those seemed to be from very soft lead, too.

I don't pour lead, but could the hardness of the lead you use be a factor?

I look at a successful commercial bait that dives to the same depth with the same action I want, more or less, to give me a starting point.

How did you teach them to dance like that?

I would contact the Art Resin people and see what they have to say. Maybe they can help.

Dale, I haven't tried dish detergent in my water tub. I have that in a spray bottle I use for the final flushing when I'm cleaning my brush.

Thanks.

I don't know if he sells Halo glitter. I've only bought regular colored glitter from him. Why not give him a call and ask him? He's good about getting back to people.

Thanks. Where did you find those?

How do they stay in position?

If the fan is in the wall directly behind your work area, it will be fine. The test will be whether or not you can smell the plastisol when the fan's on. You never want to be in the air that's been pulled past the plastisol without a respirator. I have a 20" box fan on high blowing past my work area and out the garage door. When I'm just doing a little pouring, I sometimes use it alone, and make sure to keep myself upwind from the plastisol. But a respirator is essential for your long term health, so buy one and use it. And change the cartridges per the package instructions. Wearing a respirator with non-functioning cartridges is like not wearing one at all.