mark poulson

As long as there is no solvent, other than water, they can be sprayed over enamel. Wicked paints have solvent, so do a test first if you want to use them. I know nothing about DN.

Because he's a crul mon!

Another great video! Kind of a threefer...jig pour, powder coat, and chatterbait conversion! Thanks.

And you can drink the leftovers!

I cure my two color jig heads at 350 for thirty minutes, in a toaster oven, and don't have any issues. Maybe your second powder should be cured at a lower temp, so you might try curing it at 250 or 300 for thirty minutes, and see if that helps. You might also be getting too much powder on the tap-on side, and that might be shrinking as it cures, causing the lines in the tap coat. A call to the powder manuf. might also help, since they would know the quirks of each color they sell.

I still have the two multi-colored jigs you sent me years ago, and I take a look at them every time I think I know what I'm doing, just to remind me I don't!

If you can smell it, the respirator isn't doing it's job. Use a respirator that's designed to filter paint fumes: http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Large-Paint-Project-Respirator-6311PA1-A/100195886 This kit has everything you need, including the 6001 filter for paint fumes.

https://www.amazon.com/ALC-Medium-Glass-Blasting-Abrasive/dp/B000VKEWIK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1470200105&sr=1-1&keywords=glass+beads+for+blasting

I am sorry to hear about your father-in-law. Please pass along my condolences, and from the rest of the TU family, too. Losing a loved one always hurts.

There's nothing wrong with reruns! You might even get residuals.

I have found that hinge cuts don't have to be perfectly symmetrical for a bait to swim well. Close counts. A course file or wood rasp will help in truing up the female side of the joints more. I do my first cuts at 30 degrees+-, and then sand the male end to closer to 45 to get more joint movement if I think I need it, like on the tail section. One of the reasons I use a screw eye/hinge pin joint is so I can take the joint apart and adjust the depth of the screw eye to loosen or tighten the joint. That lets me tune each bait until it swims the way I want it to. Just remember, a joint that is too loose can cause the joint to jam when it hits the water, so be sure and do a test cast or five, before you finish the lure.

It must have been unleaded!

Do you preheat the spline separately before you inject?

I resemble that remark!

It tastes bad, and it's hard to get out of your mouth.

Personally, that is not the kind of crack I would want in my boat, and I certainly wouldn't do any dipping in it!

My UV fingernail light box began to get slower to cure. I've had it for 4+- years. So I bought new UV bulbs for it, and now it's back to 3 minutes.

That a great link! Thanks for sharing.

I think you'll play he!! trying to get a .091 X 1 1/2" screweye to open up or fail.

Jigginpig's method of leaving the square ends on the blanks to use to orient the blanks will work well in a miter box, too. Just use a sharp saw, and not too much pressure.

I called Solarez, and was told LED lights do emit UV light. I lost a dip jar full of Solarez because I dipped and dripped back into the open jar under my new, improved LED work lights. I would do a test of whatever lights you use before risking losing a whole container of Solarez, like I did. I wound up just using the old 8' fluorescent lights in my garage, and living with poorer lighting temporarily.

If you make a three sided wooden miter box that it just wider than your dowel stock, lay out the angles of the cuts on the miter box sides carefully with a try square, and cut each side slowly with a sharp stiff backed saw, you should be able to cut your lip slots accurately each time. An alternative is to use a table saw with a clamping miter fence. Either way, mark you blank with a center line before you shape it, orient it so the lip slot is square to the center line when you cut it, and drill pilot holes for you hardware along the center line, so everything is square to the center line and still lines up once you've turned the shape on the lathe.

Thanks. I got two Lee's plastic pots a year+ ago, and I can't seem to get them to work without scorching the plastic, so I was wondering if I could repurpose them. I'm not going to invest in the kind of electronic sensor controller (PED?) I would need to make them work. Too cheap! Hahaha