mark poulson

Be sure to use a really sharp knife.

Would Durham Rock Hard Putty work?

I do the same thing with lead wire, except I wrap it around the hook shank, not the bends. It is a common fishing product. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/search-tackle.html?start=0&count=30&searchtext=lead+wire

Bob, Are you talking about KBS?

Honduras Rosewood is extremely hard and dense. It is great for tool handles, like old Stanley #4 planes. I would NOT try to make a bait from it, unless it was to mount on the wall and never fish it. And be careful. The dust from it can be very bad for you.

I'm surprised that you can't adjust the fingers closer to the bed to accommodate thinner material. If I were you, I would check your saw to see if there's some adjustment feature you're not seeing.

I started powder coating around the same time as Smalljaw, but I am only an occasional dipper, with nowhere near his experience or expertise. In fact, over the years, most of what I know about powder coating I've learned from him, and other on this site. But I guess I'm like most politicians. I've never let my lack of knowledge keep me from offering an uninformed opinion. So here goes. In my limited experience with powder coating, I've never had that happen. When the power is too thick it usually just sags, so I have thicker coat on the bottom of the jig when it's hung in the toaster oven and cured. I notice that the bubbles appear where the hook enters or leaves the lead. I am assuming you hang them all the same way, either hook up or by the eye. So maybe there is something on the hooks that is released when it is backed, and bubbles out as it cures. If that is the problem, I don't know why it only happens with the white powder. Do you use the same size/batch of hooks with other jig of different colors?

Two things I've learned using power tools that apply to scroll saws. Admittedly, mine was from a swap meet in the 1970's, and did not have the foot attachment. First, don't make any non-reversible changes to the tool until you've used it enough to really be familiar with it. Sometimes what seem to be short comings are really just not yet knowing how to use the tool correctly. Second, with my scroll saw, I found that the newer and courser the blade, the more it would "stick" and make the work piece jump when I first used it. Eventually I figured out that there was no need for coarse blades with fine work, and that, in general, I had to use a slower feed speed when the blade was new. Eventually, I found that the scroll saw wasn't the best tool for me, because I used wood that was 3/4" or more thick. I bought a Chinese Grizzly 16" bandsaw and stopped using the scroll saw altogether. If I need to do fine work on thin material, I use a coping saw.

I figure, once I've mastered my smart phone, I'll give 3D printing a try.

I've found that if I use just one screw eye/hinge pin attachment on my two piece wake baits, I don't have to worry about making the two sections float level.

I have an older version of that heat gun, and it works great.

Thanks to all.

Forgive what may be a dumb question, but, if you can smell the scent, aren't some kind of particles being disbursed into the air? Wouldn't that be true for the water, too?

Whatever you decide to try, do a test first on the back side of the mold to see if it does any damage.

That bait hunts, meaning it has an erratic action on the retrieve, just like a wounded baitfish. I would keep it, and concentrate on finding the retrieve speed where it just begins to hunt, so I could get it to hunt consistently.

I'll check my toaster oven's temperature to see if maybe it jumps way up from 350 to 400, but that would be really strange. I'll dial back down to 350 for 30 minutes for my next batch.

3/8 oz. I tried to file the sagging bulge off the bottom of the jig, and there was lead right under the thin layer of powder coat. I've done that in the past with heavier jigs, and it always just the powder coat that sagged. I'll check my toaster oven's temperature to see if maybe it jumps way up from 350 to 400, but that would be really strange.

Forgive my if this a no/duh question, but when I cure my TJ's crinkle powder at 375 for 15 minutes per his instructions, instead of my 350 for 30 minutes norm, all of the heads deform a little, and some sag down to a teardrop shape on the bottom of the jig. I thought maybe it was just too much powder, so I tried filing the blob off, and it is the actual lead that is melting and flowing down. The jigheads are from LPO, and I've never had an issue powder coating their jigs and spinnerbaits in the past. Am I doing something wrong?

Warning! Alcohol is a solvent for shellac, so don't store those baits with any opened beer! Hahaha

How many coats?

Even Dollar Store clear nail polish works.

Before you spend a lot of money, check with the UV Coating maker to see what wave length their product needs for curing. I use Solarez, and I've used this light for ten+ years. All I've had to do is change the light bulbs every couple of years. It's cheaper than building your own box, and, provided the wave length works for your product, it is a great way to learn how to use your UV Coating. https://www.amazon.com/MelodySusie-Professional-Setting-Manicure-Pedicure/dp/B07PV8CG91/ref=sr_1_53?crid=3IAJGQEVWY5HM&keywords=uv+light+for+nails&qid=1648408646&s=beauty&sprefix=uv%2Cbeauty%2C139&sr=1-53

Just remember to mix the two epoxy parts completely before you thin it with denatured alcohol. If not, the alcohol will bond with the unmixed portion, and the epoxy will never harden.

If Jon would just cut down on all his online gambling...Hahaha