mark poulson

He does make it look easy! He's a great jig tier, too.

Compressors need to put out enough air so you can shoot at 45 psi if you want to. Other than that, the air brush is the really important component in your painting setup, not the compressor. If noise isn't an issue, I'd suggest you get a tool compressor with at least a 3 gallon air tank. That way, your air supply will be constant, and the compressor won't need to cycle as often.

Good job!

I usually dip, because it's easy, and I'm lazy. But I also brush it on, when I want to do a multi-section bait, and it works, too.

I use the same 3M paint respirator, and it works for me, too.

Did you cure out each coat before you added the next coat?

If you only want to use one air outlet, will it still work, or do you need to use more than one?

What about, "Free Phthalates"? Was that word invented for Scrabble?

Thanks for translating it for me.

Dare we ask how you recognize his vibrator?

I add my flake first, both red and black, and then add my color, checking how dark it is and how much the flake shows as I go. The black flake will make a smokey black bait appear darker, but still let the red flake show.

I have fished scroungers for a long time, and one of the main problems with them is the lip in the longer lengths is too soft. I wind up putting some brush on crazy glue on the back to stiffen it. So maybe the thicker stuff would work, at least in terms of making the lip stiffer.

You lost me at "I am a programmer", but I think I understand what you're trying to achieve. If you develop a cost tracking system for bait making that actually works, there will be people interested in it. Whether or not they will pay for it is another story. My impression of the small guy commercial soft plastic field is that there isn't a lot of fat on the bone, so spending on a system might not make economic sense for most. Good luck with your project, in any event.

Laminates...hmmmm... ) That would certainly reduce the amount of hot plastic so it might reduce/eliminate denting, and I could pour all six cavities at once. You're so smrt!

Vodka Dave, what does this mean? http://precisionboard.com/pdf/PBLT-4-DataSheet.pdf

I am only a hobby pourer, and buy a gallon at a time, but I did try a boxed plastic from Caney Creek. I found the last of the plastic was harder, even though I rotated the box several times whenever I used some. I use Bait Junky's plastic now, and I shake it every so often to keep it from separating. I had to do that with every plastic I've used. I like the translucent gallon jugs because I can see if the plastic is starting to separate. None of them are perfect, and no two pourers have the same procedures, requirements, or budgets. I suggest you find a plastic you can afford that performs like you want, mostly. Figure out it's quirks, learn to use it, and stop worrying if it's perfect. And don't feel like you have to defend your choices to the world. What makes you happy is what makes you happy, and that's what's important. If you are a commercial bait maker, talking to others like you who already use whatever brand you're thinking of trying is a good way to shorten the learning curve. I did that here, and, like I said, I'm just a hobby pourer.

Soooo... I got a wild hair up my nethers, and decided to make a pop mold of a 6" senko, since they pitch so much more easily weightless than the 5", and the fish love them. Of course, I made it with six cavities, with an individual sprue for each, thinking I was cutting a fat hog. Well, wouldn't you know, the damn worms take so much plastic that I can only inject three at a time, because I need to hold pressure for 10 seconds each, or I get dents in the upper part. I do not preheat my injector, which would probably help the plastic to stay at temperature longer, but I don't think this would really make a difference. But I'm going to give it a shot, anyway. So now I pour three, strip and clean my injector, reheat the plastic, and pour the other three. I guess I should just be happy that the mold pours well, but, hey, where's the fun if you can't bitch about something. Hahaha

Check out these open pour silicone molds: http://www.lurecraft.com/SWIM-BAITS/products/42/ Check out the #879 on the second page.

I see that a 4'X8' sheet of 3/4" weighs 135lbs, so it is not buoyant. Bob's idea of a cutting board-type material seems like a good description.

If you want something you can carve on or alter after it's been poured, POP isn't your best choice. Durham's Rock Hard Putty, or something similar that is stronger than POP, might be a better choice. I haven't used Durhams since the early 70's, and never for making mold masters, so someone who has used it more recently will certainly know more about using it than I.

This is the first I've heard of it. I would check with local boat yards and marine suppliers. It sounds like it is pretty common stuff, so you should be able to track it down. Here's the manuf. I found online: http://www.professionalplastics.com/StarBoardKing

I'm with majic man. I just dribble a little per cup into my plastic. I think most plastisol already had some stabilizer in it, and I found that too much will yellow my lighter colored baits.

Everyone here learned from someone else, and most of the time it was from someone else here on TU. I know it is true for me. So don't ever feel the need to apologize for what you don't know. If I did that, I'd never have time to make baits!

The Enforcer looks like the Zoom Horney Toad, which started the whole soft buzz frog craze.

I fish flukes as a reaction bait, so salt isn't important to me, since it is for helping the fish hold the bait longer. The bass grab it and turn, so I have enough time to set the hook as soon as I feel them. I like them to be as light as possible, too, so I wouldn't add salt.