mark poulson

Dieter, That is a clever idea, and well executed!

I've had D2T turn pink at times. I always thin with denatured alcohol after both parts are completely mixed. I really noticed on the underside of some deep divers I made, when I had used D2T to coat and reinforce the line tie wire as it passed under the bill and entered the lure body. I have't used epoxy to clear coat a lure in a long time, so I can't add anything useful on that score.

I'm using them in muddy and heavily stained water. I actually painted it on a transparent wiggle wart last summer, and caught fish, including a big salmon. The water was off colored, and moving fast, and I was burning the crank to crash it into the face of the steep wall I was on top of. I don't think I'd use a really bright glowing bait at night unless the water was dirty, too. The glow paint powder in nail polish really helps my spinnerbait blades to shine, and show up well in muddy and dirty water, and I've caught lots of fish with them.

Up here on the Delta, delta red is the most productive. My favorite overall scheme is a transparent silver shad with violet back, but that's a clear water SoCal color. The hardest for me is just about anything. I am not painter!

I didn't when I was in LA. I haven't poured any since I moved north, but I am definitely going to use it for the next ones I pour. My first swimbaits caught fish, but the lead oxidized and turned white, and got loose. I'm hoping the Spike It Bond Coat will stop both of those problems.

I'm for a fully armed revolt against the machine, or else red wine for everbody. Whichever's easier.

Very nice bait!

So I painted 4 jigs with regular white, and 4 with the glo white. You were right, the glo white doesn't cover as well, but it glows like oncoming brights!

Thanks David. From my limited experience with static painting I think dipping may put the paint on thicker. My wrought iron guy used to static prime his railings in the shop, and I remember watching as this cloud of paint dust was drawn right to the railings. Pretty neat! He said he used much less paint, because there was no overspray, and it went on more thinly. I'm thinking that, since the raw lead is a dull silver, whatever shows through the white glo will look silverish, anyway, but, at this point, that's just an uneducated guess. So I'll be the guinea pig, and report back what I find out. I plan to do some powder coating on Wednesday.

I vote Hardbaits, for sure, unless there can be a separate forum just for design.

Sorry Centigrade, I guess I was answering an unasked question. As for your question about painting 5 baits at $.60 vs 1 at $3, I don't pay $3 for unpainted blanks, but, as strictly a hobby builder and painter, I wouldn't want to go through the time and effort to paint a blank that could fail. To my mind, my time is too valuable to waste, and painting a bait that failed would be a waste. But that's just my point of view.

Ned, I glue in my lip so I can float test my PVC lures and get the ballast right.

To me, it's a personal choice. I add my lip and hook hangers before I paint, and use the excess epoxy to seat the bait some more, by cleaning it up with a finger dipped in denatured alcohol. Many people wait until the bait is finished, and then add the lip and/or hook hangers.

And make sure it's blowing away from you!

I forgot to add that I put overlapping strips of drywall fiberglass mesh tape in the bottoms of my mold boxes, with small nails in the sides as keys, before I add my POP. Truthfully, the nails aren't really necessary. I tried do clean out a mold that went bad, to reuse the box, and it was hell to get the POP out of the mold box. If you make your mold halves so they marry well, you shouldn't have to worry about cracking, because the two faces are exact matches for each other. I have a ten cavity two part Ika POP mold that I've been using for years, and it's still fine. I just clamp them with two adjustable bar clamps, or three, if the mold is long.

I just bought some Pro-Tec Super Glo White powder paint from LPO. Has anyone here used it before, and, if so, are there any tips or tricks I need to know before I begin my next adventure?

I only get the white residue if I use the accelerant to speed up the glue set, or if it's really humid.

I use the replacement weed trimmer stuff I got from the local lumber yard, .065. It seems like a med. brush guard, but doesn't collect as much crap when I pull it through heavy stuff. I actually put it in some weedless chatterbaits I made from weedless jig, and it works for them, too. I haven't had one come out yet.

I have never had to reglue or repair any unpainted cranks I've gotten from Predator Baits.

Alleycat, I think that's a great idea! Of course, you'd probably have to add a translate button, so the rest of us can understand your cad lingo!

I use mojo sinkers. They are available in different weights. Here's the line-through setup from an old swimbait that the bass killed. You can see it has a thick washer attached at one end, to keep it from pulling through the bait, and an integral weight half way up the through wire connector. It was actually poured into the swimbait, if I recall.

I have two of that mold, and it works great. I use it for chatterbait trailers, and for T rigging, too. I pour mostly a clear/white with silver glitter. The tail really swims well on the back of moving baits. I do use your Bass Crack whenever I do open pour molds, unless I add some kosher salt right into the plastic when I add the flake.

Bait Junkys' glitter doesn't curl.

I get mine here: https://www.apexmagnets.com/

50 lashes with a wet noodle!