mark poulson

I did try TJ's Crinkle Powder, and I had the same results as you. Completely random, and hard to repeat. I used the tap the brush technique, and got my best results using the Crinkle over chartreuse. For me, the secret is to use a very light dusting of the Crinkle. I'm still experimenting with different ways to get the powder on thin enough to let the underlying coating show through. That guy Jungle Jim is a magician!

When I learned about electrostatic paint from my wrought iron fabricator (twenty+ years ago), he said the two main advantages to it were far less waste, because the atomized paint was attracted to the electrically charged metal, and the complete coverage, because the paint mist was attracted to any uncovered metal surface. I doubt you'll be able to coat only part without some kind of masking.

Thank you. I'll check out T.J.s for the crinkle powder.

I ordered some BOSS Jig Armor Black Silver Foundation. Is that the crinkle powder that guy uses?

I don't pour lead, but I do make molds, and any undercuts will result in stuck masters. I'd suggest you do like Apdriver said, and go over your molds with a "fine toothed comb", to see if there's a restriction. I would use a Q tip and a magnifying glass. I would err on filing a little too much off. Even if you have to clean up a little flash afterwards, it beats not being able to get you jigs out in one piece.

Apdriver, I got sidetracked when my daughter, her husband, and their two very small boys all got Covid, so I haven't tried to do it yet. They are all fine now, so I have no more excuses.

I have always been able to contact Zeiners and got good service. Maybe contact them through their website and ask if the mold you want is available. - Phone (316) 265-5551 - Fax (316) 265-6668

Maybe try a different brand of TRD-type baits. I know RoboWorm makes some, and you can add skirts to them.

Just remember to mix the two epoxy parts thoroughly BEFORE you add the alcohol to thin it. Otherwise, the alcohol will bind to one of the unmixed epoxy parts, and it will never harden.

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/search?keywords=belly weights&Lure-Making%2FShop-By-Product-Category%2FCrankbaits-Plugs-Hardware%2FPlug-Hardware=&page=1

I use super glue to seal, but also to harden. Balsa is so soft that it gets dented and nicked easily, and that's when water gets into the bait, and ruins it. If you're using water-based paints, the answer is definitely yes. It keeps the water out of the wood, and lets you sand the bait to get it smooth. I have never tried rattle can paints on my balsa baits, but, since they are solvent based, I think they should act as a sealer. But, for me, it is really important to waterproof and harden my baits before I paint them. That way, the topcoat is only there to protect the paint scheme.

It depends on how much your time is worth to you. I would try and figure out how long it would take to prep, paint, clear coat, and do the cleanup for 28 lures, figure out how much an hour my time is worth to me, add 50% for profit, and quote him that price. I've found that doing anything for money, especially if you feel you're underpaid, takes the joy out of it, so I don't do it anymore.

I've never done a float test. I guess spraying some onto the surface of a dish of water, and letting it dry will tell you pretty quickly if it floats.

I started out painting my one piece Lunker Punker imitations with solvent based rattle can paints. Like JD_Mudbug said, I was never able to get details with rattle cans. They were build from douglas fir, and they never had a problem with water intrusion. I still have a couple that fish just fine. But they are heavy, and a chore to throw all day. Once I'd sealed the wood with oil based primer, I would hang them from the bottom of my overhead garage door. and do multiple layers of different colors. That way, I could blend colors from a lighter bottom to a darker back.

If you're making another bait, I would add the hook hangers and hooks where I prefer them, and then add/adjust the ballast locations to get it to float right.

Before you go to the trouble of building another bait, take your bait apart and test float each section with the hooks attached. Your hook location may be tipping one or both of the sections, causing the hinges to bind. Play around with hook location until each section floats dead level with the hooks attached, and your bait should glide, since it glides without the hooks.

I'm a retired carpenter who does a lot of hand tool woodworking. I use belt sander belts, cut at the seam, to flatten metal surfaces. I clamp the cut belts onto a flat, hard surface like MDF, and pass my metal plane faces over it to flatten them. Maybe it would help to true up the faces of your molds.

Miss you dude. RIP

I've never used their molds, but I'd suggest you contact them and see what they say.

Thanks. I have tub of DWP in the garage that I bought last year, but haven't tried yet. It's been more than 35 years since I used it on a job, so it's basically a whole new deal for me. I've been making all my molds with POP for years. When I finish my birthday project for my middle grandson I'll give it a try.

Do you mean that the Bondo molds heat up and warp, or the DWP molds?

I use these snaps, and they don't open. I use the #1 size. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Double-Lok-Snaps

Maybe you can use some kind of electric space heater.

How long did it take to set up, and how long until you could pour hot plastic in it?