mark poulson

Does plastisol melt the CS Sealcoat?

Nice shop! Get some of the wasp and hornet spray that shoots 20'+-. That way, you can do battle at a safer distance. Tell your wife to carry some in her purse. It doubles as a legal alternative to Mace.

First I close my garage doors, so no sunlight, even reflected, can come in. Then I sit my jug of Solarez in a tupperware of warm water to get it thinner, and then dip it and let it drip back into my black plastic container. While it's dripping, I set up my UV nail light, and get it ready to hang my lure in. Once the lure has stopped dripping, I wipe the last drops of Solarez on the edge of the dripping jug, and then I suspend the lure in the nail light. I try to turn it every thirty seconds, until it has hung for a total of three minutes. At that point it is hard, and ready to fish. I can shape, paint, topcoat, and fish a lure the same day, using Solarez and PVC trimboard. I have heard that Solarez works as a sealer for wood, so it should be possible to do the same with a wooden lure, if you use the Solarez as a sealer, too. If I want more gloss I rub it with some fine polish on a rag, but I'm usually happy with it just as it is when it comes out of the UV light. I have found that it is not as brittle as D2T epoxy, which is really a glue. D2T epoxy is very hard by design, but also brittle when hit with sharp things, like rocks. The Solarez is designed for surfboard repairs, so it is both strong and tough, and I haven't had it crack like epoxy.

If you're into experimenting, fine. If you want to just pour baits successfully, use Bait Junky's stuff.

I sometimes upsize my belly hooks, or add lead wire to the hook shank. It makes the lure run a little deeper, but it makes it less lively, so it doesn't bounce off of stuff as well.

This is the one I use: http://solarez.com/products/solarez-polyester-gloss-resin/

I was reminded that 21XDC suggested using aluminum buzzbait props. CRS!

Do you need to wear a respirator when you're using it?

Bob, I think you hit the nail on the head. No lure is going to be indestructible. I just read an article about how Rapala field tests it's lures with their Prostaff, and they say that a percentage of really good prototypes are lost to pike and musky during field tests. That has to hurt, but it shows them that a lure works, so it's not a total loss. I'm pretty sure that, if a toothy critter wants to bite through your lure's finish, it will, or it'll just swallow it, cut your line, and swim away laughing. So I think we should try and figure out what works for us in our own lure making process, not what's "best". It's like learning to fish. The way that works for you is the best way, for you.

Thanks Dave. It is surprisingly loud for it's small size, and makes noise even on a very slow retrieve. But the best part is it is much easier to make than carving one out of PVC! And the bait still floats level on the pause! FrogAddict is the MAN!!!

I doubt it. The hard shell isn't cushioned by the soft interior of an egg.

I suggest you contact Tacklewarehouse. info@tacklewarehouse.com I'm sure they would want to know that the product has problems.

I just posted two pictures in the Hard Baits Gallery of a group of bluegill baits I just made. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/15541-three-bluegill-baits2/ I really wanted to share the aluminum prop for the Whopper Plopper copy. FrogAddict suggested using aluminum because it is light and easy to shape. He is right! I included the other two because, as Barney says, "Sharing is caring". )

Maybe you need to hold pressure on the injector a bit longer with the second mold.

I have two of the Dexas cups, and they melt plastisol just fine.

Pete, I have a punch like that buried somewhere in my garage. It is open ended, and I never could figure out how it could be used. I think it was originally a leather punch that I picked up at a swap meet, just because it looked intriguing.

Frank, you are master of all things plastic pouring, so this isn't a "you're wrong" post. For the rest of us mere mortals, silicone cups are more convenient, hold heat longer, and require the same kind of common sense handling as is required when using Pyrex, like "Don't drop!". I have spilled a silicone cup....once. I have also had a pyrex cup break....once. Stuff happens, so we need to pay attention, no matter how we melt our plastic. 300+ degree plastic is very dangerous.

The silicone pouring jugs are Norpro. I get mine here, in the 4 cup size: http://www.amazon.com/Norpro-4-Cup-Silicone-Flexible-Measuring/dp/B002MKP24K/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1455151284&sr=1-1&keywords=norpro+silicone+cups You can pinch the top off with a big metal paper clip to make a smaller pour spout. They are flexible, and the plastic is hot, so use heat-protecting gloves, and care. And don't try to hand pour with them over half full. You can fill and injector with them almost full, but not hand pour.

When we used to have specialty hardware plated, the plater used a layer of copper first, to get the finished metal to bond better.

I agree that having a vertical sprue will help, but you could try something else first. Since you made the mold in two parts, you can try hand pouring the bottom half while it's open, then closing it and injecting the other color into the top half with the sprue on top, like you have it.