mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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I've never used their molds, but I'd suggest you contact them and see what they say.
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Thanks. I have tub of DWP in the garage that I bought last year, but haven't tried yet. It's been more than 35 years since I used it on a job, so it's basically a whole new deal for me. I've been making all my molds with POP for years. When I finish my birthday project for my middle grandson I'll give it a try.
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Do you mean that the Bondo molds heat up and warp, or the DWP molds?
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I use these snaps, and they don't open. I use the #1 size. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Double-Lok-Snaps
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Maybe you can use some kind of electric space heater.
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How long did it take to set up, and how long until you could pour hot plastic in it?
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I use floral wire to wrap my jigs and spinnerbaits. I hand tie with thread, so I can build up my skirts the way I want to, and then do a wire wrap over that. I leave the wire tag ends long, facing down, and twist the tag ends as I pull them tight with needle nosed vise grips. When I'm done, I leave 3/4" of twisted wire, and I fold that back down toward the hook. It provides great bail holder for soft plastic trailers. I just thread it into the trailer's body as I push it up toward the head.
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Plastisol heating & working time extension
mark poulson replied to G D Beck's topic in Soft Plastics
I add a little heat stabilizer to each 4 oz batch of plastisol I cook and don't get yellowing or scorching. -
In another forum thread on the Hard Baits Forum, several years ago, I learned that making sure that the two sections fall at the same rate, fall horizontal, and have friction-free hinges, were the keys to getting my two piece glide baits to glide. Be sure you have all the hardware, and the hook/split rings, attached when you float test each section side by side, and not attached to each other.
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I am just a hobby maker, but I've found that vibrating the cup by hand will loosen stubborn powder to allow better dipping. That way, I can dip without creating Mt. Vesuvius.
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I use 1/16" Lexan for the lips.
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I was able to make my own Speed Traps. They aren't hard to make, and they work. I have several pictures of my finished Speed Trap copies in the Hard Baits Gallery.
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Clearly they know it's you, and are trying to hide. Hahaha
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This will help you. I shoot a bit and backflush with it every four or five painting session. I put it in a glass pickle jar with a gasketed metal lid, and it lasts for years. Even when it has old paint suspended in it, it still works. If I can't get my air brush to shoot right, I break it down and soak all the parts overnight, and then reassemble the next day and shoot another cup full back in my soaking jar, and I'm ready to go. It is a life saver. https://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer
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I think you'll get more and better answers if you post this on the Wire Baits forum.
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That is really great! -
in my experience, wedge tails are more subtle. They work at slow speeds for me better than a paddle tail, but that's because I'm not looking for a "good kick" from a wedge tail.
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I would add, "Don't be afraid of carving a little too deeply, or too perfectly." I've found that I can use bondo to repair anything that's too deep, and smooth and shape the face at the same time. If you're worried it isn't strong enough, put a couple of drops of runny super glue on the bondo, after it's been finish shaped, to reinforce it.
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I have found that glass media affect the bait's color less, and salt helps the fish hold the bait longer, so a combination of the two, like wallyc14 said, is what I use for my stick baits. 4 cups plastisol, 1+ cup of glass, 1- cup of kosher salt, to achieve the 2 to 1 ratio of the original senko.
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Thank you Bryan.
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Frank, please repost the link to your youtube stuff. Thanks in advance.
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It might help if you offer to pay them for the design.
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Thin your paint with the paint manuf.s thinner, especially water based paints. Learn to quickly clean your airbrush so you won't get paint clogs. Do a more thorough cleaning after each painting session. Never put away your airbrush without wiping down the needle, or it will get stuck in the airbrush. Been there, done that, had to sell the T shirt to pay for a new needle.
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If you're worried that the bait's epoxy might leak or get weak when you tweak the line tie, after you've tuned it to run right, add a drop of runny super glue to the area where the line tie goes into the lure. It will wick into any gaps in the epoxy, and reseal and strengthen the point of connection. I do that all the time when I'm tuning a new bait on the water.
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Very nice! What do you seal your cedar with?
