mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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I would contact a rod repair person near you and ask them.
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Thanks. -
Thanks.
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I would do a test first. Sometimes soft plastics melt hard plastic.
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Do you mean you transferred it back and forth between containers, to mix it? When I used to paint we called that boxing the paint, by using 5 gallon buckets to mix several individual gallons of paint to make sure they were all the same color.
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Is anyone familiar with or tried these Solarez products
mark poulson replied to Nathan's topic in Hard Baits
Does it flow and self-level right out of the bottle? -
I try to remember that I'm trying to make the bait look alive, and wounded. For me, that's what triggers bites, and you can get that action with almost any lure if you work it right.
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I've never tried adding Createx to polyacrylic, but you might be onto something. Get some clear, white, and black plastic spoons and experiment. Using plastic spoons will give you results similar to painting plastic lures. It'll be good practice and help you figure out how to paint.
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These work great, and come over grass without fouling, if you hold the blade up a little with your rod. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Snag_Proof_Bobbys_Perfect_Buzz_Frog/descpage-SPBPB.html
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Is anyone familiar with or tried these Solarez products
mark poulson replied to Nathan's topic in Hard Baits
Sorry Nate, I've never tried either. All I've used is their dual cure polyester resin, and it works. -
If you've found that the larger blades work better, I'd use that as a starting point in trying to figure out how to get the smaller ones to work. I'd look at the ratio of blade length to bait length, distance from back end of blade to lure body, wire diameter, rear treble size, basically every variable, and change them one at a time until I got something that worked. Fortunately you can salvage and reuse just about everything except the wire, so do some experimenting in the bathtub, but not while you're in it. Hahaha
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You can order trim board with flat faces.
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...setting up to carve hard baits, what wood(s) do you recommend?
mark poulson replied to VanBass's topic in Hard Baits
I went to PVC after I couldn't find a wood sealer that would hold up on my jointed swimbaits. Thank you again JR Hopkins! -
I think the problem is that the heat required to get T shirt paints to cross link (medium high setting on a clothes iron) is too high for the plastic that crankbaits are made with, and they will melt before the paint cross links.
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I cut my circuit board lips with Wiss tin snips and finish them with a sanding block.
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...setting up to carve hard baits, what wood(s) do you recommend?
mark poulson replied to VanBass's topic in Hard Baits
Read this thread before you decide: -
I think Travis is right. Commercial baits are a great reference library. I use a successful lure that I'd like to imitate for my starting point, and then change things, one at a time, to see how those changes affect the lure.
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I'm guessing the manufacturing involves toxic chemicals, and dealing with them makes their manufacture more expensive.
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For small quantities, try LPO. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Terminal-Tackle-Wire/Snaps-Swivels?page=1
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Thanks.
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Can you share the link to the extra stretch additive?
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Thanks.
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Take a look at lurepartsonline. I like their Dirty Pumpking #1616 venitlated air trap skirt. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Skirts-Rattles-Dressings/Skirt-Making-Materials/Silicone-Material?page=1
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Which grub are you using for the tail?
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The hardener I have, which I got from Bear many years ago, needs to be mixed with raw plastisol before it is cooked, or it stays unmixed and forms hard lumps. I have never used any other brand, so I don't know how others behave.
