mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Is anyone familiar with or tried these Solarez products
mark poulson replied to Nathan's topic in Hard Baits
Sorry Nate, I've never tried either. All I've used is their dual cure polyester resin, and it works. -
If you've found that the larger blades work better, I'd use that as a starting point in trying to figure out how to get the smaller ones to work. I'd look at the ratio of blade length to bait length, distance from back end of blade to lure body, wire diameter, rear treble size, basically every variable, and change them one at a time until I got something that worked. Fortunately you can salvage and reuse just about everything except the wire, so do some experimenting in the bathtub, but not while you're in it. Hahaha
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You can order trim board with flat faces.
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...setting up to carve hard baits, what wood(s) do you recommend?
mark poulson replied to VanBass's topic in Hard Baits
I went to PVC after I couldn't find a wood sealer that would hold up on my jointed swimbaits. Thank you again JR Hopkins! -
I think the problem is that the heat required to get T shirt paints to cross link (medium high setting on a clothes iron) is too high for the plastic that crankbaits are made with, and they will melt before the paint cross links.
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I cut my circuit board lips with Wiss tin snips and finish them with a sanding block.
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...setting up to carve hard baits, what wood(s) do you recommend?
mark poulson replied to VanBass's topic in Hard Baits
Read this thread before you decide: -
I think Travis is right. Commercial baits are a great reference library. I use a successful lure that I'd like to imitate for my starting point, and then change things, one at a time, to see how those changes affect the lure.
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I'm guessing the manufacturing involves toxic chemicals, and dealing with them makes their manufacture more expensive.
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For small quantities, try LPO. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Terminal-Tackle-Wire/Snaps-Swivels?page=1
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Thanks.
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Can you share the link to the extra stretch additive?
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Thanks.
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Take a look at lurepartsonline. I like their Dirty Pumpking #1616 venitlated air trap skirt. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Skirts-Rattles-Dressings/Skirt-Making-Materials/Silicone-Material?page=1
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Which grub are you using for the tail?
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The hardener I have, which I got from Bear many years ago, needs to be mixed with raw plastisol before it is cooked, or it stays unmixed and forms hard lumps. I have never used any other brand, so I don't know how others behave.
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Rest in peace. You've earned it.
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Have you heard from Dieter recently? He used to be a regular here on TU, but not any more.
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I put a few drops of thinner into the airbrush bowl, and then add my paint. I stir it with a toothpick, backflush gently, and do a test shoot. I add more thinner or paint depending on my test results.
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That may work, too. I've had good luck putting a dab of silicone on a piece of masking tape, and then using a toothpick to apply it to wherever I want it.
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I would try calling/emailing LPO and asking them what to use. Otherwise, I would try superglue.
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I think you're right. The only way to get stuff that's manufactured in an environmentally friendly way is to buy domestically, from makers who are regulated. I guess we all have to make our own choices.
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Take a wire coat hanger, double it, put a U bend in the bottom that will fit through your bottle's opening, and use a drill to mix the plastic. You can also use a long piece of thin wood to slip into the bottle, reach the bottom, and get the settled material loose, so it can be mixed into the plastic again.
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If you get one side of the slot flat and square, you can widen the slot without worrying about exact fit, put your lip into the slot with whatever glue you use, wedge it tight against the flat/square face, and fill in the sloppy side. I do that, using ZAP med. gap filling super glue and their accelerant to lock it in place once it's positioned. After the initial glue is set, I remove the wedge (or cut it off if it's too well glued) and fill any gaps that are left with more super glue. I works for me.
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The only help I can offer is to use black nickel hooks. They won't rust.
