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mark poulson

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Everything posted by mark poulson

  1. Bob, The wide Xing bait with the highest ballast did "hunt", changing direction every four+ feet, as the loose ballast balls shifted from one side to the other. The first bait I made that had that same moving ballast and erratic retrieve was a similar 1.5 size, but with a slightly longer bill of the same width that dove to 10', with the line tie in the bill. It had a tighter X, probably because the bill was longer in proportion to it's width, but it still moved from side to side. Back to the drawing board, to come up with an erratic, tight Xing shad bait!
  2. Thanks Dave. I remember that video. Great demonstration of how lip shape affects Xing.
  3. I just posted a photo in the Hard Baits gallery of a green craw crank that wrinkled because I didn't heat set/dry the paint enough before I dipped. Doh!!!
  4. mark poulson

    green craw 1

    My PVC version of a green pumpkin/brown craw with orange belly. Senciled, with Createx transparent dark brown, Folk Art Mossy Green tinted with some of the dark brown, and Createx trans. orange on the belly, all over a Wicked White base. The brown dots are from a brown solvent based sharpie.
  5. I didn't heat set my paint well enough, and the AC1315 wrinkled it. I redipped them both, just to play safe, and will fish them anyway! Maybe I'll get lucky and the texture will make this bait a killer! Hahaha
  6. These are the three moving ballast shads, painted and top coated with AC1315, that I had posted earlier, unpainted. The one that worked really well is on top.
  7. You might be right. After I posted the question, I thought about splitting the belly ballast to both sides of the belly hanger. I've done that in the past. I check online photos of successful hunting shallow cranks in a clear/ghost pattern, and they have split the ballast before and behind the belly hanger. It makes sense that the farther the ballast is spread, the more the X will be dampened, as the ballast's leverage is increased. That'll be a future project. For now, I'm going to try a feathered treble, to see if I can dampen the X a little. Then I'll have an option for dirty and clearer water,
  8. mark poulson

    Xing

    I recently made three similar 1.5 sized cranks, with 3 gram belly hook hanger ballast, and an additional 1.7 grams in moving ballast. All of the ballast is in, or directly over, the belly hook hanger. Here's a link to the Gallery photo: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/14124-2-inch-shad-moving-ballast/ These baits all have a very pronounced X action. I'm wondering how to reduce the X without killing the baits action. I'm thinking a feathered rear treble would do that, but I'd like to figure out how to do it in the actual bait design. Any ideas?
  9. I fished the three yesterday, and the one with the ballast the highest, completely above the center line and directly above the hook hanger (the top one in the photo) had the erratic retrieve. It would change direction every four to six feet, and veer off in the other direction. I'm going to try some deeper divers next, with the movable ballast feature.
  10. You are a clever devil! Nice adaptation, and nice video, too.
  11. mark poulson

    Masters

    I do use soft plastics as masters. I wash the soft plastic in dishwashing soap, like Dawn, and water, and then dry them by leaving them "glue" side down on a paper towel overnight. I am able to use super glue to make them stick after that.
  12. Call the resin manuf. and ask them. That's the best way to get the correct info.
  13. Thanks guys. Mike, the paint jobs won't be anything to write home about, so don't get your hopes up. Hahaha
  14. I made a two piece POP mold, and it works great. I inject it, so all the detail is copied. If you make a mold with 10 masters, you can pour a lot of baits, enough to last yourself for a long time.
  15. Sounds like a great airbrush, for a siphon gun.
  16. Thanks John. I'm going to paint and topcoat them today, so they can cure a day before I fish them Sunday.
  17. Three PVC shad baits, with different movable ballast locations, to see if one position or another will make the baits hunt. They are actually 2 1/4" long, 3/4" thick, and 7/8" tall, with 1/16" lexan bills. The twist wire line ties are tight to where the bill enters the baits. I used a 1.5 squarebill as a model. Two weigh 15 grams, with 4.6 grams of ballast. The other weighs 14.5, with 4.5 grams. I used 3 gram (2.9 really) belly hook hangers, and I put two SST ball bearings that each weigh .85 grams in the through holes that you can see filled with bondo. The bb's move side to side, and hit the 5/16" coke can aluminum disc that seals their tubes. The 1/4" holes are approx. 4 bb's wide, so there's a lot of room for side to side movement. They all three swim great at my local pond, with a very wide X, but I couldn't tell if they are erratic, because the water was too dirty to see that. I will mark them all on the belly, paint and coat them tomorrow, and fish them Sunday in a clear water lake. Hopefully one, or more, will hunt. Fingers crossed!
  18. Years ago I was told by the tech at Etex that applying another properly mixed coat would take care of the problem. I would call them and ask if that's right.
  19. Saltshaker is 100% right! Solvent fumes from paints may not have a strong odor, but your eyes will absorb them if they're in the air, even with a respirator. You need air exchange if you're using solvent-based paints, and a dust filter and exhaust fan pulling the paint overspray away from you if you're using water-based paints.
  20. Does whether or not a dye will bleed have to do with the size of the pigment particles, or something else?
  21. Try to contact him first, so you can tell him what your problem has been. He is very helpful.
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