mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Call E tex support. They are very helpful.
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X2 !! -
That is a beautiful lure! You have amazing carving skills. I'm sooo jealous!!! -
Bob, I'm gonna try your rivet trick! Thanks. -
Eat your Wheaties, and do your shoulder strengthening exercises. You're gonna get yanked on hard up there! Good looking baits! -
I agree, it's amazing. It's also scary as hell! Like something from the Outer Limits. I would never swim in water that had those things in it! Great work! I look forward to more of your progress photos. -
That looks great! You're way ahead of the learning curve! I really like the blueish shadow line about the chartruese. It looks like a photo finish. -
I fish with a guy who is a musician, and does the studio work for sets as an electronic engineer. You guys are sure wired different! Hahaha I'm glad you found a way to make your day job knowledge help you in your hobby.
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John, I used to work with a sheet metal guy who had his eyelids soldered shut when a drop of rain water hit a vertical seam he was soldering. They had to cut his eyelashes off to get the solder off. He was lucky. It never reached his eyes, but he had scars on his eyelids for the rest of his life!
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Glue-type epoxies, like D2T, will become more brittle in cold water. Decoupage epoxies are designed for movement with temperature variations, so they will remain more flexible in cold water. As more and more exterior acrylic coatings become available, there will be more choices for lure top coating. Better? Only if it fits your style of lure building, and you can make it work for you.
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I put my needle back in loose, and past the nozzle location, and use the needle itself to align the nozzle when I thread it back into my airbrush.
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Wow!!! It looks like a control panel from NASA, or a music system. Hat's off to you!
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Anybody Else Use The Lee Gunpowder Measuring Scoops?
mark poulson replied to camrynekai's topic in Soft Plastics
I use sst measuring spoons I stole from a kitchen drawer. Your method is way better than mine. -
But, on the bright side, it will call birds to your lures!
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Dang, another "original" idea I guess I stole from someone here! If I have an extra half hour I lock the ballast in with brush-on super glue, and then bondo over the hole. It is much easier to sand, and I use a drop of runny super glue to seal the finished bondo plug before I begin painting, so it is a little stronger. But, like you said Ben, super glue is a bear to sand, so I try not to mound it up, or let it run.
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Thanks. Hopefully I'll get to fish it soon, so I'll get to see it in action. -
Barry, That's the beauty of PVC. No sealing, so I can shape it and add ballast in the same hour. It honestly takes me longer to paint and topcoat than it does to build. I am talking about expanding on a bait I've already built, so I'm not reinventing anything. But I've worked hard to come up with a system that is fast and easy, and produces baits that work. JR Hopkins turned me on to Azek PVC decking, and then trimboard, and it opened a whole new world for me. Let me say right up front, I'm not building art. I'm trying to build lures that catch bass, not fishermen. I am a carpenter. I've built things with my hands for 50 years, so the building process is second nature to me. Plus, using an oscillating belt sander for the majority of my shaping makes the process fast. I learned a long time ago that having the right tools makes any job go a whole lot easier. I work off of a bait profile cut out on a bandsaw. I use a centerline to try and keep the bait symmetrical, but close counts. Exact is a waste of time. I shape by eye. I use a shape I'm familiar with, even if I alter it, and the same ballasting ideas apply, no matter what I'm actually building. I learned a long time ago to "get the job done", to not get distracted by details. Once I find a bait that works, I can refine the details, but getting a bait to work is my first goal. I try to share what makes the baits I post work, so others can learn what I've learned from others here. Yes, Castaic is a deep reservoir, so there is still a lot of water deeper than 20'. Finding where the fish are holding is a whole 'nother deal! Hahaha Dude, this is supposed to be fun! -
Thanks.
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John, I tried that once, and the sanding dust erupted out of the hole. Scared the crap out of me! Evidently, the crazy glue heats up as it sets, and has some kind of an effect on the PVC sanding dust. I like the paper towel because it's light, and easily mashed into the hole. And it stays put when I drop some crazy glue on it Like I said, when I'm not being lazy and in a rush, I use bondo, and it works great.
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That's Michael Orensteen. Sorry I misspelled you name. -
X2!!
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Dinger, I did. I took the props I got online, and bent one of them to make it spin in the other direction. I also shortened the blades a little, to make it more of a finesse bait. I may put the longer props back on it, to see how it swims. But I found with my first spybaits that the ballasting is the key to getting it to wobble on the fall. The props help it wobble on the retrieve. John, Thanks. It has a lot bigger presence in the water than the other spybaits I made, or than the original. I'm hoping it will be tempting for deeper suspended bass that usually don't see cranks down past 20'.
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Spybait deep 21 gram 1 right side
mark poulson commented on mark poulson's gallery image in Hard Baits
Bob, They are easy to make, once you get the ballasting down. The original Duo Realis is 80 mm.(3 1/4"), and thin, but I can't make a PVC lure that thin without a through wire, and,even then, I would worry about it being too brittle. By making the baits at least 7/16" thick, and by using 3/16" lead wire, I found there is enough material left to be strong. I made this one taller to see if I would get a more pronounce wobble on the fall, and it looks like I did, at least in my test bucket. I caught a 7lb largie on one of my first ones. Good luck. -
Since rubber is so impervious to chemicals, dyeing it has been a real problem for me. I've tried Spike It and solvent base sharpies. They both work, but they don't last too long.
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I just posted some pics in the Hard Baits Gallery of a deeper running spybait I made today. I wanted one that got down fast, but wobbled as it fell level. This one does, although it falls slightly nose down. I think, once it has line on the nose, it will fall level. It weighs 3/4 oz. so it should fall fast, and cast like a bullet. Fingers crossed. I really want to share how easy it is to get a bait to wobble, just by moving the ballast up so it's 1/3 above the centerline. Of course, "your results may vary", but it's not that hard, once you commit to playing around with ballast location. I use either 1/4" or 3/16" lead wire for ballasting, so, once I determine how much ballast I need to get the bait to fall at a specific rate, I cut the lead wire to that weight, divide it so it goes into several locations, and measure the length of each piece of wire. I drill holes up from the belly along the centerline until they are deep enough that I can push the ballast wire up 1/3 past the centerline, and that's it. On this bait, I filled the excess hole with paper towel and crazy glue. If I want a really nice finish, I use bondo. Flat sided lure wobble more than rounded baits, I think due to the surfaces involved. Dave, help me out here!
