mark poulson

I still have the one you sent me.

Before centering pins I used to make my own 1/4" diameter screws by winding spinnerbait wire around a 1/4" bolt that was held in a vise. I would wind 3" of screw wire, and then cut off what I needed for my lure. The larger size kept the plastic from tearing.

Epoxy a large Owner centering pin screw lock into the recess, and just rotate it until the tail's in the right position. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_CPS_Centering_Pin_Spring/descpage-OCPSS.html

Oil your O rings and injector with PAM.

Is the 11" from the nose to the top of the bend in the tail?

Next time try using a small saw to cut the lip out. If you leave one slot face undamaged, you can wedge a new lip against that face to align it, and then epoxy the new one in place.

Denatured alcohol.

This brings back memories. 50 years ago I had a biker buddy who airbrushed his bike frame, and used a homemade rig built from a fridge compressor. It just hummed, because it was designed to be in a kitchen, not a workshop. I still remember that quiet sound.

I use a Dremel sanding drum, because it is much easier for me to control

If your mold has thin appendages that are falling off, the first thing I would do is contact Dead On, and see what they recommend. It may be the worm oil is softening the thin stuff and making it weak. In the past, when I had that kind of a problem, I'd try a process of elimination to try and figure out what's the problem. I would start by skipping the worm oil, and see if that helps. Next, I'd try and use a harder plastisol, to see if that's the problem. If harder plastisol solves it, but makes the bait's too stiff, I'd dial back on the hardener until I got a soft enough mix that would still hold up. For me, that process has worked. Good luck.

sac neal, that thread/video is from 2014, so the maker may not be around anymore.

Wayne, the Rustoleum is okay with wet carpet, because it is designed for outdoor use, but will melt if left in contact with soft plastics for more that a few minutes.

Wayne, I stopped using the AC1315, and now spray Rustoleum 2X Clear, or dip in Solarez. If I want to use the Solarez, I dip anything that will fit in my dip jar. If it's longer than the jar is deep, I'll dip one end, and then flip it around and dip the other end. But only one piece lures.

I would consult a tax attorney, so you don't get misinformed and wind up in trouble.

I've had that happen when my paint wasn't completely dry. Do multiple thin coats, and hit it with hair dryer after each coat.

I buy their .051 12" closed loop wires. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts?page=1

UV cures at very specific wave lengths. I would contact Alumilite and ask them directly.

There is not fish oil in WD40: http://www.foodreference.com/html/facts-wd40-fish-oil.html

This bait wakes at low speeds, and runs slightly sub-surface on a faster retrieve:

Here's how I make mine: Another picture:

I would be afraid it would fill in some of the details too much.

Thanks for doing this for the rest of us.

I get my second shot Tues. Don't stop wearing a mask, social distancing, and disinfecting. Can't afford to lose you.

24 hours to fully cure, but I will paint over it in 12 hours, if it feels dry.

How do you do that? It sounds really interesting.