mark poulson

24 hours to fully cure, but I will paint over it in 12 hours, if it feels dry.

How do you do that? It sounds really interesting.

Bob, I use super glue to seal my PVC baits, because it works, and is fast. You know how impatient I am. I haven't tried nail polish, because it takes too long to dry.

They should work. They provide the action for whatever trailer you use. I've had success with the old Scrounger head with smaller plastic minnow trailers, swum through bait balls. It is the only time I used them, casting to busters working small baitfish. I think it would depend on how you're fishing your hair jigs. I don't fish hair jigs, so I can't give you any advice from experience.

I've used Plumber's PVC glue, that is made for bonding PVC pipe. I used the clear stuff that's for PVC pipe, not the stuff for ABS pipe. I've also used super glue, both the runny and the medium thick stuff. They both work.

I get it. Being willing to try and learn a new skill takes courage, especially one like new software. Good luck.

You are really moving along!

That frog looks really good! Very nice work.

Can you print a lure in the vertical position, so the rings actually add to the turbulence as the water passes over it?

Bob, how about heating the lure with a hair dryer, and then putting a coat of clear fingernail polish on it?

"Abandon all hope, ye who enter here." Dude, you're hooked deep, way past the barb. Hahaha I'm just jealous. That looks really good.

At the top of this Soft Baits Forum page is a search feature that should help you. There are also sticky topics for things like soft plastics, molds, and other stuff related to pouring your own baits. Do yourself a favor and invest an hour checking those things out. You'll be amazed at what's listed.

Between a rasp, a file, and some sandpaper, I can usually a lure smoothed and ready to paint in a minute or less.

It sounds like taking one class might be worth it. Plus, the coeds, man. Even after I turned 70 they still look good.

Bring back finger painting!!!

I use a fine wood rasp and a straight file to take down my filler to lure level. I have a lot more control because they are thin and flat, and I don't damage the hook hangers.

Thanks Dave.

Does the sphere rotate clockwise or counter clockwise?

I only make lures for myself and a couple of buddies, so probably doesn't apply to most of you. If I have a lure that doesn't work, or that didn't come out the way I had planned, I take the hardware off and give them to my 2 year old grandson. Rattling baits are his preference.

I am just a hobby builder, so my methods are not for production. I'm sure they would have to be adapted in some way for production, if they would work at all. I've found that anything that adds weight to blades effects their spin, slowing it down. The thinner the coating, the smaller the effect. I have coated and fished chatterbait blades with black Shrapies, topcoated with Createx transparent base and then Rustoleum x2 Gloss Clear Acrylic. I can even paint my spinnerbaits and blades, primed with self etching primer, with Createx paints and then topcoat with the Rustoleum, and it holds up just fine For me the most durable blade coating has been finger nail polish. It is hard and tough, and doesn't seem to be affected by temperature changes in the blade's metal. I've tried powder coat, and it made the spinnerbait blades spin more slowly, but it seems to change the thump on chatterbait blades in a good way.

Mine are one piece silicone molds from Lurecraft. https://www.lurecraft.com/MOLDS-FOR-SOFT-PLASTIC-BAITS/departments/33/

JD_mudbug said, "The satisfaction of catching fish on a self-made lure is worth the effort." That is soooooo true.

That is good to know. Thanks.

My cellphone is not cooperating. I can't seem to email my photos to myself, like I could before. I probably hit some tab somewhere, but I have no clue what or where.

Same here. The next time I pour some I'll try to remember to take some pictures, but no promises. I have trouble remembering my kids' names.