mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Glad to hear you were successful, but I didn't suggest the Minwax, so you're in debt to someone else. Hahaha
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For me, there isn't enough of a difference in vibration with the lighter wire Revenge deep runners to offset how expensive and fragile they are.
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When I mix colors for soft plastics, I find that pumpkin seed is a light brown with a little orange. And the black flake makes it a little darker, too. Maybe it's the same for crank paints.
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Those look really good. How flexible and durable are they?
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Those baits are a total failure, but, if you send them to me, I'll make sure they get a proper burial at sea. Hahaha
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So....are there a bunch of deer running around with no tails?
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Try putting flexible swimbait hinges, or just plain swimbait hinges, in the search tab at the top right. There are some threads there with what members have already tried.
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Good for you!
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I guess it depends on how gnarly the cover is, and the size of the fish. That hook is not a heavy gauge flipping hook, so it would be easier for a decent fish to open it if it's buried in heavy stuff, or if you hit it really hard with heavy braid. If you're pitching and flipping to cracks in rocky structure, with open water, it would probably work, but you would have to tone down your hook set.
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That sounds like a good thing.
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Two thumbs up!!
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Maybe you could make some slightly oversized bondo mold sides, and line them with something soft, to use to press the foil. If you pour them in a rigid container, like a small wooden box form, you would have something to clamp. Or maybe I'm overthinking it...surprise!
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That came out great! Thanks for sharing.
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I use a fine file to open the hook slots until the heavier gauge or larger hooks work. It doesn't take much. I did this to four of the seven cavities on the Do-It 1/4 and 3/8 oz football jig molds, so I can use 3/0 and 4/0 Mustad hooks. I used a drill press with a sharp metal bit locked at the proper depth to mill out the hook eye area to fit the longer hook eye shank.
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What Is Your Favorite Crankbait Pattern To Paint?
mark poulson replied to Matt Moreau's topic in Hard Baits
I really like ghost patterns, lightly misted transparents over clear plastic baits so they are still see-thru. I fish clear lakes, and the clear ghost patterns get bit really well, both shad patterns and craw patterns. -
I think how the claws are attached to the body is what determines if the flap or not. Look at the Net Baits Paca Chunk. It was the original flapping chunk I found, and it's claws come out at right angles from the body, and then turn. http://img.tacklewarehouse.com/new_product/NBPCH-AK-1.jpg
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Thanks Ben. -
Are you kidding? It's so much fun to have something to post!
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Thanks Nathan. My buddy threw the sexy shad in prefish, and he said he had to burn it as fast as he could to keep what he called the biggest smallie he'd ever seen from eating it.
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In making green pumpkin for soft plastic, I use watermelon green, and add some pumpkin seed, which is a light orange brown. I'm not sure what the equivalent is in Createx, but I mix brite green and dark brown until I get the color I want.
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Thanks. Yes, they do swivel. I used Spro swivels, super glued in tight holes, and I passed a piece of spinnerbait wire through the buried eye to pin it as insurance.
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Flak, flak, flak...or is that Aflak? I save my baits that hunt for open water. Any squarebill that runs true will work for me in cover, and there's always a chance I'll hang it up and lose it, so I don't use my hunting lures there. Of course, in the hands of someone who actually knows what they're doing, it may be a different story.
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I just posted them in the Hard Baits Gallery. Thanks for reminding me. Last time I was there it was amazing!
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Wicked white with some trans yellow to warm up the bone color. -
I used Wildlife green/blue and iridescent violet over a white to silver shoulders base coat, and then a Folk Art silver scale color. The bait shifts colors when it is in the water. The orange throat was his idea.
