mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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I use 1/4" and 3/16" lead wire, so all I have to do is drill that size hole, and super glue in the correct weight of wire. Here is one source, but there are others online: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bullet-weights-lead-wire?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop|Generic|AllProducts|High|SSCCatchAll&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EtgIb3rOqrUGUiDN1LzC_kIEFWfbGsqSVf0GUJPMuyGigThCO48_rcaAlAbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Rust-Oleum Gloss Clear Acrylic Lacquer Paint 11oz
mark poulson replied to mark poulson's topic in Hard Baits
Thanks. You saved me a lot of grief. -
Rust-Oleum Gloss Clear Acrylic Lacquer Paint 11oz
mark poulson replied to mark poulson's topic in Hard Baits
Thanks. How long did it last, and did it mess up your paint jobs? -
Has anyone here used this as a clearcoat for their cranks?
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Thanks.
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Please report back on your results.
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I have never tried a punch press. I cut mine with Wiss tin snips, and finish shape them with sand paper.
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Would a French blade on a bass spinnerbait's clevis catch weeds?
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That is a really nice bait. Years after you did it, I made some sculpin molds with Sculpy clay, and they got bit down in SoCal. Here's a link to the 4" version:
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When that happens to me, I try three things. First, I try holding pressure on my injector for a five count. If that doesn't help, I try heating my plastic a little hotter. If I still have a problem, I'll increase the venting to each appendage. Usually one or two, or all of those steps works.
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These will cut way down on hook rash. I used to T my trebles like that, but it weakened them, especially the smaller sized trebles, so I stopped. Nail polish will toughen any top coat, and is good for quite a few trips, plus it's easy to recoat if it does get dinged.
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I tried that, years ago, but my ex-wife got pissed.
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You might try banding the middle treble and tail hook first, and then the front hook to the middle. That's the way the three hook baits came.
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You might try rubber banding the hooks to each other, so they can't move during transport. One of the Japanese lure makers used to do that.
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I use Rustoleum Self Etching Primer. It will not come off, once is on, and your paint will stick to it. I get it here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Self-Etching-Gray-Primer-Spray-249322/202097278
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Thanks for the video. He is a pouring machine!
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I would stick to the reducers by the paint manuf. As for clear coats, use the search feature on this site. The options are vast.
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Wow! -
I just checked them out. They look good, and you said they got bit. Congrats! That is the true test of any bait.
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Those look great! -
Please do. I'd love to see what you made.
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Better you than me. ;O)
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I do think that powder coat, done right, is practically indestructible. For jigs, I think it is the only way to go, since they will get bounced and dragged through rocks. But, having said that, I love how I can prime my spinnerbait heads with self-etching primer, and then paint them with the same Createx baits that I use for my crankbaits. The clear nail polish top coats them just fine. I've never had the paint fail on one yet, and I've been doing it for more than five years.
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It seems like the older I get, the more often it happens. :O(
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Clearly there are a lot of wire choices available. I just posted one that works for me, is readily available, and not expensive. Give this wire a try, and yo might not have to go to college to figure out which wire will work and why; https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts
