mark poulson

Same here. The next time I pour some I'll try to remember to take some pictures, but no promises. I have trouble remembering my kids' names.

JD_mudbug, That is a great story! Thanks for sharing.

I use a heat gun, not a hair dryer, to reheat the first pour in my open pour swimbaits to get a better bond with the second pour. Just be careful not to overheat, or your first pour can scorch and discolor. It take some experimenting to get the timing right, but it has allowed me to be able to pour two layers at different times, even the next day, without losing a good bond. When I put my second pour into the microwave to heat, I begin to reheat my first pour with the heat gun. When the top of the first pour seems to be melting again, I do my second pour. It's not perfect, and not as good as a twin injector laminate, but it works.

I have found that adding hardener to hot plastisol gives my lumps of unmixed hardener. I always add it to some uncooked plastisol, and mix it thoroughly, before I heat it, or add it to already hot plastisol.

I would contact Jon Barlow at his website, https://barlowstackle.com/, to see if he can help you.

I remember. Hahaha

Sorry, no clue.

When I had my UV curing slower, I replaced the bulbs on my nail light box, and that fixed it. Evidently they do wear out.

I use 1/4" and 3/16" lead wire, so all I have to do is drill that size hole, and super glue in the correct weight of wire. Here is one source, but there are others online: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bullet-weights-lead-wire?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop|Generic|AllProducts|High|SSCCatchAll&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EtgIb3rOqrUGUiDN1LzC_kIEFWfbGsqSVf0GUJPMuyGigThCO48_rcaAlAbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks. You saved me a lot of grief.

Thanks. How long did it last, and did it mess up your paint jobs?

Has anyone here used this as a clearcoat for their cranks?

Thanks.

Please report back on your results.

I have never tried a punch press. I cut mine with Wiss tin snips, and finish shape them with sand paper.

Would a French blade on a bass spinnerbait's clevis catch weeds?

That is a really nice bait. Years after you did it, I made some sculpin molds with Sculpy clay, and they got bit down in SoCal. Here's a link to the 4" version:

When that happens to me, I try three things. First, I try holding pressure on my injector for a five count. If that doesn't help, I try heating my plastic a little hotter. If I still have a problem, I'll increase the venting to each appendage. Usually one or two, or all of those steps works.

These will cut way down on hook rash. I used to T my trebles like that, but it weakened them, especially the smaller sized trebles, so I stopped. Nail polish will toughen any top coat, and is good for quite a few trips, plus it's easy to recoat if it does get dinged.

I tried that, years ago, but my ex-wife got pissed.

You might try banding the middle treble and tail hook first, and then the front hook to the middle. That's the way the three hook baits came.

You might try rubber banding the hooks to each other, so they can't move during transport. One of the Japanese lure makers used to do that.

I use Rustoleum Self Etching Primer. It will not come off, once is on, and your paint will stick to it. I get it here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Self-Etching-Gray-Primer-Spray-249322/202097278

Thanks for the video. He is a pouring machine!

I would stick to the reducers by the paint manuf. As for clear coats, use the search feature on this site. The options are vast.