mark poulson

There are tons of other choices, but I know from personal experience these will work, and are compatible with most paints. For wooden swimbaits I'd recommend a decoupage epoxy like Envirotex Lite, aka Etex. http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/ For plastic baits I'd recommend Solarez, a UV cured polyester resin, originally designed for surf board repairs (it works for that, too). http://solarez.com/products/low-voc-dual-cure-polyester-resin/

Quit it. Now I'm starting to get warning points envy!

I do the same. Clean those eyes first! And don't hang the jigs directly over the heating elements...space them, or they will over heat and burn.

You are very generous.

I can't stand it any longer....who is in your avatar?

I use weighted hooks that I buy here: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Swimbait_Hooks/catpage-TTWHK.html I'm sure there are other sources. I found that I needed at least 3/8 oz, down low in the bait, to allow me to retrieve it with any speed and not have it roll. 1/2 oz is better. I couldn't find a hook that heavy, so I pinched some big split shots onto the weight of the 1/4 oz hooks I could get, put on some super glue, and that's what I wound up using. But there must be sources for heavier hooks. I just quit looking. The lead oxidizes and turns white, so it's best if you can powder coat it before you pour it into your swimbait.

Hahaha I guess it's like they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Lets call it a tie.

Thanks. I'm only opening the hook bite, so that is the only part I would need to hammer forge. I'm going to wait until I actually get bit to see if it is even a problem, before I start any hook forging.

Be sure to go online and check out the how-to-clean videos that are available. Developing a quick and easy cleaning process, so you clean your brush between each color and after you're done, will prevent tons of headaches.

Don, that is a beautifully made machine.

That's probably the safest way to go. Most two component finishes need to be mixed well before they will set. If you had a poorly mixed batch, you might be able to fix it with another coat, like with D2T or Etex, but one component only probably would be a lost cause.

Use a gloss first, because that is the strongest top coat. Then remove the gloss as Hawgfan suggested, or with a Scotchbrite pad, or fine wet and dry sandpaper.

Who's on first?

Warning Will Robinson!!!!

Thanks for the additional information. The more I learn about it, the less tempted I am to try to do it.

Use these syringes, and you'll always be correct: http://www.flexcoat.com/products/supplies-accessories/color-coded-syringes/ Drill a tight fitting hole in the top of each component bottle, and push the syringes in their component bottles so they fit snuggly. The nozzles are tapered, so you can find a bit that makes a tight fit about half way into the cap. To fill, hold the syringe tight to the cap and turn the bottle upside down. Now fill the syringe with as much as you need, flip the bottle back over to upright, and remove the syringe and squeeze the component into your mixing container. Since the syringe only touches one component or the other, it never needs to be cleaned, and you can leave them in the bottle tops when not in use.

I've decide not to try and retemper the hooks with heat. Instead, I'm going to try and hammer forge them (thanks wchilton) and see if that does the trick. Otherwise, I'll start looking for some heavier gauge hooks that won't open easily on a good fish, assuming I actually hook a good fish! Hahaha

I've decide not to try and retemper the hooks with heat. Instead, I'm going to try and hammer forge them (thanks wchilton) and see if that does the trick. Otherwise, I'll start looking for some heavier gauge hooks that won't open easily on a good fish, assuming I actually hook a good fish! Hahaha

I'm shying away from trying to heat treat the hooks, thanks to all the advice here. I'll concentrate on getting bit first, and then cross the stronger hook bridge when I come to it. Thanks for all the help.

wchilton, I'll give the hammer forging a try and see if that works. Thanks for the idea. I never considered sst hooks. Another idea to explore. Thanks

I am opening up the hook point, so I have a much bigger bite. I tried it with Owner hooks, and they broke. So I went on TW and ordered some other 60 degree extra wide gap jig hooks. Right now I'm bending out the point of a VMC 60 degree jig hook. The hooks bend without breaking, but I'm worried that they will open up even more when they get bitten. If my design works, and hooks opening becomes a problem, I'll probably experiment with tempering them, but that's a problem I'll deal with if it comes up. Or, worst case scenario, one fish, one hook. First I have to get bit!

I have a bait which requires me to open up the hook. I'd like to be able to retemper it afterwards, so it won't open up on a fish. Does anyone here know how to do that, or if it is even possible?

I have a bait which requires me to open up the hook. I'd like to be able to retemper it afterwards, so it won't open up on a fish. Does anyone here know how to do that, or if it is even possible?

I have a bait which requires me to open up the hook. I'd like to be able to retemper it afterwards, so it won't open up on a fish. Does anyone here know how to do that, or if it is even possible?

You get a new car!