mark poulson

If you do, see if the pattern adds backspin, too. Hahaha

You can add glitter to clear nail polish, and brush it on before you topcoat with epoxy, or, if you build with a waterproof material like PVC or resin. If you are painting plastic lures you can use it as both a paint and and a top coat.

Very interesting! Another thing to fantasize about owning! Of course, I'd have to get one of my kids to operate it, and that would be a deal breaker. It would cost too much!!!

I am only speaking from my years as a lure builder and fisherman, not as an epoxy chemist. What I posted has been my experience when building wooden lures. Obviously, your wife is wrong. You do know everything, at least when it comes to epoxy! Please don't tell her I said that. Hahaha

Does the shape and pattern of the dimples affect how far it casts, like a golf ball?

Where's the fun in that? Hahaha

Thanks.

I'd try that. You have nothing to lose at this point, since the lure is not fishable as is.

You not may have mixed it thoroughly, especially if you added denatured alcohol to thin it. You have to have both components completely mixed first, before you thin it, or the alcohol will bond one of the unmixed parts, and it will never set hard. I made that mistake when I used D2T to seal a POP mold. Fortunately, a well mixed second coat hardened it right up.

I have to agree. People being paid slave wages makes it impossible to compete on price alone.

The glass bead media seems to be the most translucent of the three. Let us know how it affects durability. One of the neat things about the Caney Creek additive is that it seems to make the baits both flexible and strong. I have no clue how that works.

I add some scent to the hot plastic before I pour, and it masks the plastic smell. Then I add some more when I bag them. But I only pour for me, and my friends. I don't know if this is practical for guys who sell. I also noticed that heating the plastic much above 335, after the initial 350 kick off heating, seems to make it smell more, even though it isn't burnt.

Hahaha!!!

Post a link to a picture if you can.

I haven't been on a lot of other sites in the last few years, because the TU members who post here are the most knowledgeable and helpful group online anywhere. Ask you questions, post photos of your baits in the Hard Baits Gallery and link them to your posts here so we can all see what you're talking about, and "let the games begin".

That about sums it up. Go into it as a hobby and you'll have fun your whole life. Make a job out of it, and you kill the buzz.

AA, I guess I'm confused. You said that, as a long cure epoxy, it never really gets hard or brittle. I took that to mean Etex, which is a decoupage epoxy and does stay flexible. D2T is, first and foremost, a glue. It does get hard and brittle, but, as a glue, you don't want it to stay flexible, or you would get creep, and eventual failure of the glue joint. When I've used D2T to coat larger lures it has cracked and flaked when I did a rock test, intentionally of course. Hahaha That was what got me onto Etex in the first place, because it dents but doesn't crack on the same kind of rock test. I am totally lost when it comes to anything archery-related, so I will gladly yield to your expertise on anything that has to do with archery.

Thanks. They look great!

AA, I think he is talking about D2T, and you're talking about Etex.

Ask Jason Quinn! I understand he loses 2 mph when he wears all his bling.