mark poulson

I just got a new injector from Bass Tackle, and I want to break it in right. What lube should I use for the O rings?

With the design I have now, I use the hooks weight to act as ballast, so the bait stays upright until it gets bit. It is weedless right now, because the hook tines are held tightly to the body by the magnets. I just need to find a way to get the hooks to pivot up on the strike. It seems that the body is thick enough that it gets caught in the fish's mouth, without the hooks being engaged. Grrrr!!!

Most of what I know about lure making was learned here on TU, from members who shared. Thank you.

You know you're old when you bought some of those vintage lures new! Hahaha

Wipe the blade down with acetone, and then coat it with clear nail polish.

Bob, I wait until I feel the fish before I swing, too. I usually get a hook into them. If I lose them, it's usually because they get caught in the weeds and come off. I got pulled down and felt the fish with the hard frog, but it always pulled out of the fish's mouth without a hookup. Barry, The hook hanging below the lure makes it land and walk top side up. I considered using a fixed hook with weed guards, but I was afraid I'd have to add weight to the belly if I did that. I was trying to keep the bait really buoyant, so it would stay up on top of the grass. I'm going to try some lube next trip, and let them swallow that sucker!

If you're worried the smell will keep the fish away, spray them with attractant to kill the odor before you fish them.

Thanks. I ordered a pair yesterday.

Howdee!!!

Skeeter, I remember, from a former life, that the guys who had really deep lacquer paint jobs on their cars, the result of the build-up of multiple layers, used to only bring their cars out at night. I can still see the candy apple red hot rods with finishes so deep it looked like the red went on forever. The sun used to kill those paint jobs really quickly, if I recall correctly. Are the paints and finishes you're using now different than what was used back then, in the '50s and early '60s?

I think your best bet is to contact Krylon directly and speak to one of their techs. Tell them what you want to use their product for, and they can probably give you the best advice.

I guess misery likes company.

We've all swung before we felt the fish on a big blowup!

Bob, Those folks on that taxidermy forum have amazing skills! Thanks for the link.

Those look good, too. How long does a pair last?

Hahaha...

I also had a friend who used auto finishes to do custom finishes on sheet metal work, but without the safety precautions. We lost him to blood cancer. Be careful.

Those look good! That's a good start. I started with rattle cans, too, but moved to an air brush for the variety of colors and the ability to do detail work more easily. Plus the water based paints are much less toxic.

Bob, You know how it is. It was such a cool idea, and solving the design problems was fun. Plus it was fun to shape and to paint, too. Oh, well, back to the drawing board.

Thanks Apdriver. I'll check those out. I use leather Wells Lamont work gloves right now. They are not as bulky, but they don't block the heat as well, either.

I have a pair of those. They always felt clumsy when I tried to use them for hand pouring, but they do keep the heat out.

What kind of glove do you guys wear so you can handle a hot injector?

So do I. That's the problem....I like it, but it doesn't seem to work. Maybe I can use them to find fish, and then throw back in with Senko to catch them.

I have fished some swing jigs with a changeable hook clip, and they do seem to collect more crud in the wire connection. But I do like being able to change the hooks, to keep them sharp, and to be able to put the hook point where I want it when I change trailers.

I think my glo plastic is too bright, so I'll be cutting it in half, to see if a more subtle approach is better.