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mark poulson

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Everything posted by mark poulson

  1. I have used glass beads, but found they cracked sometimes and cut my line. Don Iovino recommends fire-treated glass beads with brass weights for his Brass and Glass rigs. Maybe they would hold up better.
  2. I've use artificial wine corks.
  3. You can use weed wacker filament for weed guards.
  4. I just posted a picture of two 3 1/2" squarebills I just finished. I've been laid up with bursitis in my left shoulder, so I can't do anything except make baits. I've already reorganized my garage and boat. Twice. Hahaha Here's a link in case the photo doesn't show:
  5. These are both made from Azek PVC trimboard. I built them each in three days. I primed them with Rustoleum 2X Paint/Primer, Createx paints and Folk Art metallics for the colors, and two coats of Rustoleum 2X Gloss Acrylic for the top coat. I added clear nail polish over the eyes, and along the belly treble hook's swing path, to cut down on hook rash. The top one is 1" thick, and weighs 20 grams with #2 KVD EWG trebles. The lower one is 3/4" thick, same hooks. They both swim 3-4' deep, and are stable at high speed, with a big X side to side swim. They are flat sided, so there isn't much roll, and I tapered them down from full thickness at the shoulders to 1/2"+- at the belly, to make them more stable at high speed. They have a 3/8" LPO metal rattle in the front part, and a smaller multi-bb rattle farther back, so they make a lot of noise. I built them to fish fast over shallow grass, and along weed lines, and I want to provoke a reaction bite.
  6. I would suggest the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with the .5mm needle conversion kit. I've been using an airbrush for 20 years+-, and I wish I had started with this brush. It's easy to use, shoots most paints with just light thinning (like skim milk), and easy to clean.
  7. I use clear nail polish to keep my 3D eyes on my swim jigs.
  8. mark poulson

    20201103_075509.jpg

    Bob, I'm just amazed at how many really nice baits you produce.
  9. Hoff, Your bait looks interesting. I've laminated PVC decking to PVC trimboard in the past, but, for me, it wasn't worth the effort. I hand shape all my baits, and, even though I get close, they all vary by the time I'm ready to add ballast to them. For smaller cranks, it is possible to repeat a shape well enough to be able to use weighted belly hook hangers to get close, but I have trouble getting bigger baits that close. I've found that I have to play around with my ballast too much after my bait is shaped, depending on the shape, to be able to incorporate the ballast before shaping. Please keep us informed as you build them.
  10. I only tie for myself, so I usually use the same skirt parts that work for me, but, when I want to save a combination, I use my cellphone camera to record my skirt parts, and then save them on my computer.
  11. I use the thin and the medium. I've never tried the thick. For me, the thin works for attaching eyes to crankbaits, for attaching tight fitting crankbait bills, and for making baking soda filler. It also seals balsa baits really well, and also PVC trimboard baits. The medium works well for anchoring weed guards, and installing crankbait hardware. I use the ZAP accelerant to set the medium, once I have something glued and positioned.
  12. Here's their home page: https://www.zapglue.com/ I usually buy it off of Amazon.
  13. I do use those, too, but I like the 2 or 4 oz. bottles because I use it a lot in my bait building.
  14. After reflecting overnight, I would say that Strike King is the crankbait brand I try to imitate the most. I am no artist, and their paint schemes are easy to copy, and they catch fish.
  15. I was told by a tech at Etex that it should two equal parts by volume, and it should be very well mixed. She said that, if the first coat stayed soft/tacky, I should mix up another batched properly, and recoat the bait. That worked for me. I used epoxy syringes from Flexcoat, and I heated the two components first with a hair dryer, so they would measure and mix more easily.
  16. Man, now you've made me have to think! Grrrrrr. I'll get back to you.
  17. I have been using super glue since the 70's, so this is kind of embarrassing to admit, but I just figured out how to keep the little silicone caps on my ZAP super glue from getting clogged with dried glue and then sticking to the glue nozzle. I took the same artists brush I use to apply the grease to my reel gears and put a light coating on the inside of the cap and on the shaft of the nozzle. Amazing, no more stuck caps!
  18. Forgive a non-CAD fluent question, but would embedding the mold halves in support wooden boxes that you can clamp together prevent mold warping?
  19. Cool! Thanks for the pics, and the explanation. That is a massive amount of hook rash! I see why you changed it to top hook. Clear fingernail polish will protect the rashed wood without changing it's looks, or affecting the action.
  20. How do they keep the line and hook in place during the cast, and when the bait lands?
  21. I like that hook arrangement because you do have a hook on the rear section, but it puts all the strain of fighting the fish on the front line tie, and not on the hinge joint. How are the hooks held in place?
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