mark poulson

Sounds like you could put some on the keeper of a spinnerbait or a jig, and the trailer might stay up better. Does it stay sticky to soft plastics, or is it just a one time deal?

Garsh!

I just posted a new way (for me) to make soft plastic molds using Solarez UV cured resin: http://www.tackleund...-solarez-mold1/ I was really happy with how the resin got all of the detail, and is strong enough to pour over and over without breaking off. The best part is it's quick...an hour+- start to finish. No drying, no sealing, just spray with PAM before each pour, to make it easier to get the baits out. I did drill a vent hole at the back side of each flipper, since they were almost completely enclosed.

I just posted a new way (for me) to make soft plastic molds using Solarez UV cured resin: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/13075-solarez-mold1/ I was really happy with how the resin got all of the detail, and is strong enough to pour over and over without breaking off. The best part is it's quick...an hour+- start to finish. No drying, no sealing, just spray with PAM before each pour, to make it easier to get the baits out. I did drill a vent hole at the back side of each flipper, since they were almost completely enclosed.

It is neat stuff, for sure. I really like how it moves in the water. I also use it in combination with silicone. It makes a great accent color.

I trim square lexan lips on the water with sharp serrated scissors, or diagonal pliers, and sand them smooth with a sanding block with 80 grit. It's fast and easy. Curved lips are a whole 'nother ball game. I just use the sanding block, and take my time. But I've never tried to do it on the water to a curved lip.

Thanks for the clarification. I was wondering how it could be rubber, and not melt.

The coarser the salt, the less it affects transparency. I use Kosher salt in my clear baits, but I'm a Jewish carpenter! Hahaha Seriously, I have used the Caney Creek HD sinking stuff, and it makes baits stronger and more flexible, but I lose transparency with it. For darker, more solid colors, like green pumpkin Ikas and senkos, it's great, and makes them last longer. But I still add salt for additional weight, and because I like how the fish will hold it longer with salt in the bait.

That looks like it is probably too big. The one I used to have was 3/16" max (I don't remember exactly), so I could core out a pocket in a worm for a rattle.

I stuck a 3lb+ rainbow trout on a fat Ika while fishing for bass. It actually hit my bait twice before I got a hook into it. So I know they eat med. size craws.

I removed two of the weight transfer BB's, and got mine to suspend with #4 hooks.

Is that the same Black Dog Baits who makes the Lunker Punker?

It's like a silicone square cut skirt, only out of the biosilk material, which seems to be some kind of rubber. I'm not sure what it is exactly, but it flares like rubber in the water, and it's not supposed to gum up like real rubber does.

X2 I couldn't find anything in that shop! Hahaha

There's a product that's called Bio Silk that is similar. Both Lurepartsonline and Skirts Unlimited sell it.

I wrap my wire around the skirts twice, with 1" tag ends when I'm done wrapping. I grab the tag ends with small locking pliers, twist the wire tag ends down to the wraps, pull up to tighten the wraps and twist again until the new "slack" is gone. I don't cut my skirts that way. I cut off the twisted wire long, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" depending on the jig, and bend it down toward the hook bend, so it acts as an additional attachment when I slide on my soft plastic trailer. I just make sure the twist goes into the plastic as I slide it up.

They are amazing!

Do they have to have proof that you were notified, like a registered letter?

My very first post here was asking why my plastics were sticky. In my case, I hadn't heated the plastic enough to get it to "go off" completely. A digital thermometer solved that problem.

I used to have a hollow tube with a cutting end to make hollows for rattles in worms and other soft plastics, but it disappeared years ago. Does anyone here know if something like that is still available?

You could try one of the soft plastic glues, like Pro Soft or Mendit. I use a soldering iron with a flat blade to melt my skirts onto my Ika bodies. I hold the soldering gun vertical in a wooden clamp, use a U shaped piece of masonite to keep the trigger on. I hold the skirt on one side and the Ika body on the other for a four count to melt the faces, then slide them off toward me and hold them together for a twelve count. That is long enough for the plastic to cool enough not to come apart. It sounds more complicated than it is, and the skirts hold fine. Just be sure you have a fan blowing across your work area to get the smoke from the melting/burning plastic away from you so you don't breathe it.

Could you use the artificial cork that's used in some wine bottles?

That's a neat setup, for sure. He must have a heck of a dust collector system. I can't help but wonder why he doesn't smooth his master more, so he has less hand sanding to do after the initial machine shaping. His idea of a poplar dowel down the center is slick.