mark poulson

X2 Thank you Meister!

Thanks.

Nathan, Do you put a wire in the rear hook hanger for the excess to run down, to avoid a drip at the end?

One of my kids is home for a few days, on his way to grandma's house in O.C., and he and I just did some repair work on his surf boards with solarez. Worked like a charm. If you have some that won't harden, add a couple of drops of MEKP to help it set up. The best thing to do is to call Solarez/Wahoo Int., (760) 476-3559, and ask them for help.

You can also shoot a couple of coats of Createx gloss clear over the bait before you add the scale, to make the base paint coats harder. But, once again, be sure to heat dry each coat well. Paint with moisture in it is soft.

I just took a look, and it's terrific! Very original thinking, and nice execution, too.

I made a hollow body lure mold with POP, and I sealed it with D2T. It works just fine, as long as I use PAM as a mold release each time I pour it.

Funny, I had the same problem with a two piece POP 7" worm mold I made. I wound up making a reservoir by wrapping duct tape around the top of the mold and overpouring as I injected, so I would have enough hot plastic to keep the worms from denting or having air pockets. After the plastic cooled, I'd cut the duct tape at the sides where the two piece mold joined, and demold. The sprue would usually stick to one side of the duct tape, and was easy to remove, and reuse. But the duct tape had to be replaced after each pour. It was a PITA, and I don't pour that mold much anymore. If I weren't so lazy, I'd just make a reservoir top out of wood that sat around the top and was removable. Hahaha

If you read the opinion articles in Bassmaster Magazine, the editor is on the side of clean water, and stopping the pollution of our waters in general, along with more angling access to all our waterways and lakes.

Try burning a chatterbait over the grass, if it's not all the way up yet. Use heavy line, and hang on!

I use the high setting. It heats the jigs much faster, so I can get more powdercoated in less time.

Thanks Ed.

I placed an order Tues. I hit the link in Cadman's post and it opened for me, and I use Google Chrome.

Hahaha....

I can't find the coating on their site. What is it called?

With my swimbait designs, I've found that the tail section is so small, and therefore less buoyant, that the lure becomes tail heavy with ballast back there. Maybe it has to do with the heavier hinging system, too, or the fact that I use PVC instead of wood. Others may have different results, depending on what shape their swimbait takes, and what they use to build it from. If your tail isn't swimming well, loosen the last joint, so it's really free.

Small, long, thin lures like a pointer are hard to cast unless they have a built-in weight transfer system. Lots of times that is what is rattling. So be prepared for you lure to be hard to cast for distance, unless you can come up with a silent weight transfer system. The Orbit 80 jerkbait did that with an internal magnet that slid on a cable between two steel plates, but doubt that is feasible to duplicate in a home shop. But, if I were trying to make a copy, here's what I'd do. I would take the lure, without hooks and split rings, and trace both the side profile and the shape looking down from the top onto a piece of paper or light cardboard. Then use that to transfer the shapes to my rectangular stock. I would cut my lip slot at this point. Cutting the lip slot while the blank is still rectangular is key. I would cut out the profile on the band saw, retrace the shape from the top onto the blank, and hand sand/carve down to that. Then further carving and hand sanding to taste, until I got the shape I liked. Cutting the lip slot while the blank is still rectangular is key. After you've shaped, add the lip and hook hangers. Seal the lure. Float test it with the split rings and trebles on it, and figure out how much ballast you need to add by hanging split shot onto the trebles until it sits right, starting at the front. Getting a lure to duplicate the size, shape, and flotation of the Pointer isn't difficult. Getting it to cast well, and have the same action in the water is what's hard.

Since alcohol is what breaks up the bubbles, will breathing on the epoxy after drinking a few beers make your breath more effective? I'm just sayin.....maybe it's a legitimate reason to drink.

The ballast is to keep your bait swimming bottom down. It dampens the action of any section it's in, because it increases the mass that has to move. Keep the weight as far forward as possible, and in the belly: most, if not all, in the first section. And never in the tail, or your bait will swim tail down. You want to keep the tail as buoyant and lively as possible.

Did you have to monitor and adjust the entire process for 12 hours, or was this the time the milling took after you programmed your mill? I am just curious.

The problem I've had with uncoated lead inserts in swimbaits is that the raw lead turns white as it oxidizes, and that shows through the plastic.

I found that powder coating works,

Does UV light help GST cure?

Doh!!! Hahaha