mark poulson

I drill 3/16" holes, and then widen them with the drill by moving it from side to side, so they are sort of V shaped.

What am I going to do with all the bulk rubber skirt material I have in my garage? Hahaha

X2

I've used them for some routing, but they don't hold small pieces like lures. There isn't enough lure surface, at least on smaller lures like cranks, to allow the router's body to push down and hold the work piece. The lure body tips into the opening between the router base and the cutter.

I would be worried that the powder coat might add so much thickness that it dulls the hooks. Let us know how it works for you.

"I'm getting a little long in the tooth and lazy . That is a bad combination." Sure seems to come as a set, doesn't it? Hahaha

I use the NorPor silicone cups, and pinch the cup with a large black paper clip to make a smaller pour spout. I have that same mold, and it works great. With hot plastic, I can start with the tail, because the smaller spout opening give me more control, and move forward once it's filled. I bought the 2 cup/1 pint cups, but I have much better control if I only heat 1 cup for pouring detailed stuff. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norpro-Measure-Sir-Pour-2-cup-Silicone-Measuring-NEW-/280625234787?

It looks like a Sebile to me.

Ralph and Irving.

The short answer is that PVC decking will work, PVC trimboard (more buoyant) will work, and the best way to make your first swimbait is to copy something successful, like a triple trout. Once you've made one, you can see what works and what doesn't.

I've used routers for 50 years, and the best place for your hand is on the handle of the router, not on the work piece. Either find a way to safely clamp your work piece, make a jig to hold it so you can use an undertable mounted router, or don't do it. I've seen shapers, which are just more powerful table routers, through pieces of wood through concrete block walls. It's not worth the time savings you envision, if you wind up losing a finger, or worse.

I've used both carpenter's glue and thinned D2T epoxy. I prefer the epoxy. Two thinned coat (thinned with denatured alcohol AFTER the epoxy is thoroughly mixed) and brushed on. After five minutes or so I remove any excess that hasn't soaked into the POP so I don't lose any details from epoxy ponding. I've use runny super glue for repairs, so it would probably work as an overall sealer, too, but it's expensive for me to use.

If you only a few sizes of cranks, you might try making a U shaped block, with a flat in the middle of the U with no sand paper, and curves on both sides. That way the block would stay centered, more or less.

You can make a sanding block with the curve you want, and use that to give yourself a controllable, safe shaping device.

That was an interesting read, but, man, I'd hate to fish with the guys on that site. They'd probably get in a fight over the PH of the water, or it's clarity!

It looks like a mix of three different green pumpkin skirts. One with orange flake, one purple, and one green. I don't know where you can buy a skirt like that already made, unless you order custom from somewhere.

Adding some virgin plastic to remelts helps them to work. Heat stabilizer is important.

On overcast days, early in the morning, or in dirty water a shallow crank with glo paint looks like a mag lite coming through the water. The glo paint isn't quite as bright over darker colors, unless you put it on really thick.

I don't know yet. Last week I fished a DD22 in a brown craw crackle pattern, with Glonation green, and a homemade red craw crank, also coated with the green and caught fish on both. My partner, fishing a Fat Free Shad in a craw pattern, never got touched. I fished one yesterday. Tough day. Two fish, a 2 1/2 on a jig, and a 6, on a chart. rattlebait coated with Glonation at our first stop. It was an overcast, cloudy day, and the water was clear, but dark from no sun. I was on the bow, so I had first shot, but my partner was throwing a similar bait, and we both were throwing up shallow on a big flat. He actually made the first cast to the spot I got the 6 on. His bait didn't get touched. I used my cellphone flashlight to "load" the Glo paint, and it was visible down to 6'. The green paint looked like a mottled white coming through the water. I still had the stock hooks on the bait, which was an older Yozuri Hardcore 3D Vibe, and the fish bent on hook out on each treble. I was happy we had a net. So far, I'm impressed with how visible it makes the bait. I think, especially in darker conditions, it's really important to make your baits as visible as possible, and this paint sure does that. I think flash in clear water does the same thing. Our lakes in SoCal are small and pressured. Yesterday, with 2,000 acre feet of fishable water, due to two coves being closed for the spawn, there were 50+ boats, so every where we went, there was a boat on a spot, or just leaving, and we fished around people all day. So having some thing different is a good thing. The jury is still out, but, so far, so good.

Try adding a coat of Glonation green before you top coat. It dries almost clear. Use a brush to apply it, and make semi-circle patterns like scales on the sides. It will light up with a broken pattern in dirty water or in the dark, provided you charge it with a lig ht source first. And it's thick, so you can actually add scale "ridges" at the same time you're adding the pattern. It works really well in dirty water, over any paint scheme. It's water based, so topcoats don't bother it. Don't tell anyone, especially bass100! Hahaha http://glonation.com/unpigmented-glow-paint.php

Nothing is more dangerous than a dull tool. You wind up forcing it into the wood, and that is a recipe for disaster. A lathe has a lot of torque. If you get a tool caught, it will flip and fly, and can go through things, like walls or people. Make sure your tools are long (for leverage), sharp, keep your tool rest locked above the center line of the work piece and as close as possible without touching, and take small cuts. Don't wear anything that can get caught in the spinning lathe, and use a face shield. If you go to wood turning sites there are videos you can watch for free about how to turn. They are worth watching.

Amen to that!

Speaking strictly from air flow for chimneys, the corners of a square duct/vessel will not mix well. That's the reason masonry flue liners are oval, not rectangular. The corners actually cause resistance. Old masonry chimneys with rectangular flues make of brick have the most soot buildup in the corners, because the air doesn't flow there. I'm guessing liquid plastisol will behave in a similar way. Think of eddies behind shoreline structures in rivers. You might be better off using round pots, and encasing them in a square holder.

You guys are 2500 miles apart, so you're not in competition, at least not directly. And, if you are, sniping at each other here won't affect that competition. Why not learn to ignore each other's posts, instead of the tit-for-tat stuff that winds up being posted?

Amen!