mark poulson

If you're making wood or PVC cranks, you can't avoid hand work.

He does a good job with the interconnected twist wires.

Sean, You can always add a prop to the shaft at the back and then bend a loop in the wire for the rear hook.

I added some white "eyes" to some jig heads, and they do glow like crazy! I didn't get bit, but it was a tough bite. We fish the day after a big tournament on the same 2000 acre lake. Since I'm home today, I played around with the white, and the red powder a little more. I added some of the red powder to some clear nail polish I had, and coated a couple of jigs and cranks. The red powder doesn't glow anywhere as much as the white, but it does glow, if you add enough powder. Definitely not as strong as the white paint. I put some of the white paint onto a couple of crackle craw painted DD22 cranks. I top coated with clear nail polish, to save time and weight. They glow, but the regular paint is still visible in direct sunlight. I'll use them for low light conditions. The fish are moving up here in SoCal. Good times ahead. Did I mention I'm tired of deep and slow and cross your fingers fishing?

Last Christmas I bought two of the Team Lew's Pro TLP1SH baitcasters. I love the reels. They have the 80mm bowed carbon fiber handle. I had the handle on one of them break yesterday. On a hookset, the handle on the side with the knob that I was holding for the hookset broke. Has anyone else had this happen?

As long as she still wants you to come back out you're okay. When they want you to go back down is when you know you're in trouble! I hope your basement is well insulated and heated. My neighbor just came back from Chicago and he said it was COLD!!!!

Very nice work. I love your pegboard!

You old flag waver! Hahaha

I make PVC cranks, but the process for making and installing lips should work for you. I use a band saw to make my lip slots while my lure blank is still rectangular. I make sure the top cut on my lip slot is straight, flat, and where I want it, to give me a true surface to glue against. If I need to open the slot more than the saw blade thickness, I do it by removing material from the bottom. That way I have a true square surface at the back of the slot, and a true flat surface at the top of the slot, so I can wedge my lip up against the flat surface until the epoxy sets. My lip wires usually put some upward pressure on the lip as the assembly is being installed, and that helps, too. A centerline on my lip's blue tape covering helps me align the lip with the centerline of the lure.

No wonder it give me such a terrible hangover!

"Two great minds with but a single thought" I'm sure one of my ex wives said that, but not about anything I thought.

Dieter, U Da Man!!!!!

Call it The Mortgage Banker, and you'll never get caught!

I've done similar scaling, but not exactly the same, by doing my base colors, including contrasting colors where the stripes will eventually go (like the gold in your picture) and then putting tulle over the lure, followed by a second scale material from avocado netting. By pulling both layers tight you can get that effect. That is a beautiful paint job.

A woman with a sense of humor....priceless!

I bought some Caney Creek sinking additive, liked it, went to use it again and now I can't find it in my own garage! You gotta love getting older. CRS!!! Hahaha

I salt my Ikas to help them cast farther. A fat Ika needs some help if its just plastic with no weight added.

As long as you clean them out thoroughly with denatured alcohol, and put the resin in the resin bottle, and the hardener in the hardener bottle, you should be okay. Don't forget to clean the caps out really well, too, and don't switch them.

Can I mix some silica sand into the bondo to make it stronger and more heat resistant?

I actually watched your videos. Great stuff! You make it look easy!!!

I use a two "speed" hair dryer, on the lower setting, on each coat, to get the moisture out before I shoot the next coat. If you're happy with the PC-clear epoxy, there's no reason to switch to Etex, which has to be turned for at least 8 hours before it sets well enough not to sag and drip.

Can you redip after two hours?

Sean, I don't know. I guess it would depend on the epoxy, the white paint, and the amount of sunlight. I made lures for a long time with D2T epoxy top coat that yellowed, and I lived with it. It actually makes white paints bone, and enhances green and brown paint schemes with a warmer look over time. So all I can suggest is to make a couple, fish them for a while, and see what happens. Of course, you could contact the manuf. directly and ask their tech. people. They are usually happy to help us.