mark poulson

That's too simple!!!

Contact the manuf. of the silicone, and talk to their tech. people to get the correct info.

Thanks. I'm giving it a try today, and I'll let you know how I do. I'm hoping to make some white eyes with the paint, and then add red pupils and gills with the red powder mixed in Createx clear.

Check with Lisa and Ed, the site sponsors on the upper left of this forum.

I find that tightening up the joints helps in adjusting the slalom effect for glide baits. Sometimes less is more.

When I made wooden baits, I would shape, add the bill, hook hangers and line tie, and then seal the wood, so I could float test it for my ballast testing. That way, I got an accurate reading of what my lure would actually be like in the water. I would put on the trebles and all the split rings, float it in a bucket of water, add split shot or egg sinkers to the tines of the trebles until I got it to float or sink like I wanted, then drill ballast holes in the belly of the lure and epoxy in my ballast. I would bondo over the ballast holes and sand it smooth, and then paint and topcoat. Remember to subtract anywhere from 1 to 3 grams of ballast to allow for your paint job and top coat, depending on the size of your lure. If you are using D2T as a sealer, try adding a couple of drops of denatured alcohol to it AFTER it's completely mixed, to thin it a little so it penetrated more into the wood.

Thanks.

Doh!!! Hahaha

That's some scary stuff right there! Looks goooood!!!! How long does it take a dot of that paint to dry/cure so you feel comfortable fishing the lure? Does it play nice with top coats?

If you do a search here for crackle finish, you'll find a lot of info.

Does anyone here pour and sell the head that comes on the Biffle rig, but with the eyes flat, so I could add a split ring and the EWG hook of my choice?

I use light wire footballs a lot for GYCB hula grubs, and have the 90 degree football mold from Do-It. I use the Mustad hook that is the same as the Eagle Claw they show for the mold, because it black nickel and salt doesn't affect it. I've since learned that Eagle Claw makes their hook in a platinum, salt compatible finish, and I'm trying them in the new mold I just ordered. I was able to make the hook slots fit a 4/0 hook by using a small triangle file, and a sharp bit locked at the right depth in my drill press to mill out the eye holes to fit the slightly larger/longer hook eye.

Thanks. I think I've got enough info to get started now. I never get tired of watching ING's video.

Neil, I just checked, and it works well for me, too. Maybe it's your browser, or security software, or something like that. I really don't know enough about computers to say more. A side question (thread hijack)...why are their prices for Do-It molds cheaper than Do-It's prices for the same mold?

I use Rescue tape for a lot of stuff, and keep a roll in my boat, but never thought about using it for soft plastics. That seems like a lot of work, compared to O rings, or even small sections of plastic drinking straws. Plus, I would never roll my baits on my carpet. That worm oil is hard to clean up. I love Jarrett and his show, but I'll pass on his tape.

Jdeee, Can you add caulking 100% silicone to the mold silicone after you've coated the master, to add bulk to it?

I've never gotten a bad KO from Predator Baits, and Jim actually follows up with any questions I email him. I get tungsten worm weights, $18.90 delivered for 20 3/16 green pumpkin with inserts, from Alley's Tungsten. www.alleystungsten.com info@alleystungsten.com 615-788-6477 They also actually answer emails and phone calls.

I bought six hemostats online years ago, and use them for holding baits while I paint them, too. They are also great for hold a lure when I dip it, and for grabbing the belly hanger while the lure's wet to hold it while I switch from the top hemostat to a bent paperclip in the line tie so I can suspend the lure in the UV nail box to cure.

Putting a disposable glove on the hand that holds the lure while you paint will keep your cleanup to a minimum, and you won't drop a lure because of wet hands. CVS sells the blue nitril gloves in my area. I'm sure a drugstore around you will have them. They are not expensive, and the blue ones are reusable.

If looks counted for everything, most of us would never get a chance to pass on our genes.

I want to make a modified two part Arkie head jig mold using bondo, and I'm wondering what I should use on the first half as a release agent so the second part doesn't bond to it when I put it over the first part. For soft plastic molds, I use spray PAM. Will that work with bondo?

You have WAY too much time on your hands!!! Hahaha

Thanks.

I am not familiar with that particular product but, since you already have some, I'd suggest you paint up a sample and dip it to see how it performs. That's the surest way to find out if it's compatible with you paints, how fast it dries/cures/hardens, and what the recoating times are. It's a lot better to experiment with something new on a test piece you don't care about than to ruin one of your own paint jobs and/or lures.

Will a standard flashlight charge the paint?