mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Our club tournament yesterday got canceled due to 45 mph winds, so I came home and made this Azek PVC trim board frog. The bait is 2 1/4" long, 1 3/8" wide, and 1" tall. It weighs 14.2 grams without the paint, and 10.5 grams without the hook and skirt. It has no rattles, because I wanted it as light as possible. As it is, with the two magnets in the tail, it sits tail down like a popper, but it will stay up and walk on a slow retrieve. I used a Booyah frog as a model for size and overall shape. I used 3/16"X 5 1/16" diameter permanent magnets at the tail to hold the hook tines in place. I used a frog hook that I had lying around. I bent the hook tines up so they lay flush with the face of the magnets at rest, and are open for the hook set when deployed. I'm pretty sure it is an Owner 4/0 hook, and it was a bear to bend! I don't remember when or where I bought either the magnets or the hook. CRS!!! I test cast it a dozen times at the local pond. It sits tail down, and walks on a slow retrieve. A fast walk will pull it under. It stays on top with a straight fast chug, chug retrieve. The angled throat gives it lift on a straight pull. Of the dozen casts I made with it on 50lb braid, the hooks stayed in place on all of them. On one of the casts, the skirt got up into the hooks a little, so, either the hooks came up and then back when it first landed, or the tines caught the skirt on one cast. Either way, that part is a success. The hook, which is seated in a belly slot and held in place with a brazier head screw, and held in alignment with a U shaped sst wire, pivots up with very little pressure, and has what looks like enough clearance to stick a fish (3/8"+-), but I won't know for sure until I've taken it to a grass lake. I drilled a cross ways air pocket toward the rear (the bondo'd hole) to try and compensate for the weight of the paint and top coat to come. There is a cross ways hole at the tail that I pull the skirt through. It was fun to make, and I can't wait to paint it! Probably I'll use a sparkle white belly, red throat, yellow sides overshot with green pumpkin on the shoulders and back, with black spots and ear hole. Anyway, it wasn't hard to make, and I'm probably going to get a sst compression spring and try one with that instead of magnets. That will make the frog lighter, for sure, and let me put rattles in the tail without sinking the bait. -
I do sometimes use superglue, because the bait is rough and I don't want to take the time to sand and fill. The superglue does keep the PVC from bubbling up the paint when it gets too hot. I try to dry the paint without overheating it. But usually I just paint directly over the PVC. If I sand it smooth enough, and use a Createx opaque white as a base coat, it paints up fine. Several thin coats dry well and fast. Once the top coat goes on, in my case Solarez, the whole bait is smooth, anyway, and any imperfections are hard to see. I am going to upload some pics. of my attempt at a hard frog in the Hard Baits Gallery. The magnetic hook holders work. I cast it a dozen times and the hooks stayed pinned to the magnets, and I didn't get bit, so I don't know how it will be for hookups. But the hooks pop up easily, and seem to have good clearance for the hook set. Fingers crossed. I'm painting it today.
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If you're looking for flash, try Sally Hansen's "In The Spotlight" to coat your steel blades. It has small pieces of mylar in clear, strong polish. A willow blade coated with it is almost too flashy!
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I do the same, or use bondo. It's easier to sand.
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A small thru hole while the black is still rectangular is foolproof. Case in point, it works for me!
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Round Ear Ball Vs New Football Shakey Head
mark poulson replied to ROWINGADUBAY's topic in Wire Baits
On Western Bass, a fishing forum, a jig maker suggested putting a slip sinker in front of light jigs to add weight, but keep the profile smaller. I'm guessing he pegs the sinker tight against the jig. That might work to help get football heads through grass, if that's all you have in the boat. -
I got my Baitjunkey colorant and flake (thanks for the plastic sample) yesterday. So that's my after work project this week, to get a watermelon/red flake combo that works.
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Man, I am sooooo jealous!!!
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The frog in the link is trick! It looks like it has the hooks attached permanently with screw eyes. If I were making it, I'd probably turn the hooks to face out, thinking that would expose the hook points more, but that's just me. And I'd want to be able to change out the hooks if I needed to. Funny how I never worry about a hollow frog hook getting dull, but I would worry about not being able to change out the hooks on a hard frog bait. Probably because soft frogs usually die before the hooks get dull. That's a good reason to come up with a weedless hard frog that works.
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Ben, I think the finer galv. wire I use for my skirts is electroplated, which isn't as thick and doesn't seem to be affected by twisting. But the cut ends will rust over time. It doesn't affect how the wire holds the skirts, because I have a pretty long tag end. Of course, I can't see if the plating is actually cracked. I can just barely see the 28 gauge wire! Hahaha
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Does Anyone Know How To Get This Effect?
mark poulson replied to tekoutdoors.co's topic in Hard Baits
Not to hijack this thread, but you can overlay one scale material with another to get a 3D effect, too. Here's a gallery picture of a swimbait I did this on: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/12021-7-inch-blacksilver-trout/ Its hard to tell from the picture, but the paint scheme really pops in the water. -
Thanks Wayne. I figured that was probably it. I'm still wondering if the faster spin is important for the flash, or the vibration. I got cold just reading your post. I hate hard water. My youngest is going to school in Toronto, so she gets to see a lot of it this time of year. Out here in SoCal, we have a different hard water issue, as in it's getting hard to find lakes to fish. And we're worrying about having enough water in our lakes to fish, period. The State has dropped the ball with the quagga mussel invasion, so now they are spreading in our water supply lakes. It's really cut down on fishing options, since we're looking at inspections, and then a quarantine period with no fishing before we can go onto some of the lakes. Stinks!
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I'd use a smooth mandrel to bend around. A file can leave a burr on a line tie.
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I remember that video. Interesting. They really have a nice setup, and a nice looking lure.
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Whoa!!! If you're using them for twist wire hook hangers, you need much stouter wire, and SST, too. Galvanized steel will rust through in nothing flat, because the split rings will remove the galvanizing as soon as they swing back and forth a few times. You should post a thread asking where to get softer SST wire, and what gauge. I only use the galv. wire for tying skirts on jigs and spinnerbaits.
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That is a beautiful color!
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Are you guys concerned about the weight of the blade because lighter blades turn faster and give off more flash, or is it vibration?
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3D Printers Future Of Prototyping Baits
mark poulson replied to youthinthewild's topic in Hard Baits
Great looking bait! Did you have to do much sanding to get it to look like that? Are the joint marks from sections that you had to glue together? -
I also posted a Sebile-like single hook deep diving crank in the gallery. I never had it catch weeds with it's bill. I also never had it get bitten! Hahaha
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I use Ook 28 gauge glavanized wire that I got from Home Depot and haven't had any problems. The only place the wire can rust is at the tag ends where you cut it after you twist it. I leave a longer tag end anyway that I bend down to use as an additional anchor for my trailers, so the rusted tips are never an issue.
