mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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This is why I dip my plastic cranks in clean acetone before I paint them. It reveals a new, clean plastic layer, and it clears the bills. It also allows me to paint without a primer, so I can do transparent/translucent paint schemes. The bait in the middle hasn't been dipped yet.
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Looking for an inexpensive but high quality equipment
mark poulson replied to Subvisser7's topic in Soft Plastics
I would start by trying to match a commercial bait that works for you. I read here that you can use mineral oil/worm oil to test you color mixing, before you try to color your plastic. I have never done it, but it sounds like it would work. I think green pumpkin works because most fish and crawdads have that color, or something close, in them. It probably has to do with living in grass or moss. Start out by adding less color. It's easier to darken a color by adding a few more drops than to have add more plastisol to lighten it. -
Try skipping the water bath for one batch to see if that is the problem.
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Is there salt in the white belly portion?
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What about a center section that rotates, so it can be somewhat independent of the lure body, like a mid-lure whopper plopper, but with balanced props?
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Try fingernail polish.
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Does anyone know it there is a special way to store one of these baits after it's been used, or can you just leave it on the hook/lure?
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Thanks Dave. That was a fun video, and a very interesting phenomenon. It certainly got my head spinning. :O) In order to use this idea in a hard bait, I think it would have to have a partially filled liquid interior. Larry Dahlberg once told me that liquid mercury had been used in the past to get a bait to hunt. Or maybe a spinning interior ballast that was just off of the lure's major axes. But I don't know how you would get it to spin without some kind of a motor and power source. I think this is a job for Livingston Lures!
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If someone has a family with vulnerable people at home, they might not want to put those family members at risk.
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It might help with the physical bond of the acrylic paint if you make your barrier coat of polyurethane matte. I would worry that the screen's holes are too small.
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There is a fine line between more durable and not enough wiggle. You have to play around with your mix to see what works best to make a bait you like.
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24 gauge floral wire from Home Depot. And you can use weed wacker fiber as a weed guard.
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If you use a drill press and a small portable vise or wood working clamp (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jorgensen-6-in-Handscrew-Clamp/1000989110, you have a lot better control over the drilling process.
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A lot of people I know are afraid to go back to work because of Covid 19.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LBS-Glass-Bead-Medium-Grit-MIL-SPEC-8-70-100-grit-Sand-Blasting-Abrasive-/111672165459?hash=item1a002e0453:g:VocAAOxydgZTKU6c
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Maybe try a thinner nail weight. I use drywall screws instead of the nail weights. Cheap, and thin.
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As my kids would say, "Of course, we only have your word for it." Hahaha
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Jeff, I forgot that I used to do that, too. Funny how quickly I forget stuff if I'm not doing it all the time.
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I am just a hobby builder, and only build for myself and a few buddies, so my way isn't for a production run, by any means. I paint them with a black sharpie, heat set it with a hair dryer, shoot on two coats of Rustoleum 2X Gloss clear, and then a final coat of Rustoleum 2X Matte clear. I wipe the blades with clean acetone first, to get rid of any oils. The sharpie is solvent-based, and sticks to the clean metal well. Just be sure it's heat set, so the Rustoleum doesn't make it run too much.
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M-F plastic turning yellow vs clear 1st time heated
mark poulson replied to Senkosam's topic in Soft Plastics
I just finished a qt. bottle of heat stabilizer that was at least ten years old. It had yellowed, and the plastic bottle had yellowed, but still worked, and didn't affect lure color. -
When I want to make a lure that dives to a certain depth, or performs in a certain manner, I use a commercial bait that does those things as my initial guide for lip length/shape/angle, line tie position, and angle of attack at rest/ballast amount and placement.
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Tally, there is a learning curve with plastics, just like with carving crankbaits. It isn't rocket science, but it does involve some science, so take it slow, and read up here to learn as much as you can. The plastic is HOT, so be careful.
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It's a hand held thermal that you aim at the plastic and shoot/take the temp. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP30-Thermometer-Temperature-Adjustable/dp/B07VTPJXH9/ref=asc_df_B07VTPJXH9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=367639077358&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18311921748109823317&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032002&hvtargid=pla-854702792598&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76601507416&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=367639077358&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18311921748109823317&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032002&hvtargid=pla-854702792598
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A cheap digital thermometer from Amazon. Stir the plastic before you take it's temp, because microwaves heat from the inside out, so you won't get a true temp if you just measure the surface.
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Since it is a musky lure, I'm assuming you're using a wire leader. Do you do your float test with the leader attached? Maybe try using a mono leader or no leader for your testing, to see if the wire leader is the problem.
