mark poulson

Adding a drop of runny super glue over the threads will lock in any loose filaments. It penetrates.

I spray PAM into my Bass Tackle injector between each load, and I've never had to clean it in 10+- years.

I ran out of a paint that I could only get from one supplier. They are the exact opposite of Coast Airbrush. The paint was $8, but the shipping was $14.57, and they only show the shipping cost once you've ordered and they have invoiced you. $24.33 with tax is a lot for four oz. of paint. Needless to say, I will be using that paint more cautiously, and searching for another supplier.

Barry, it's all your fault! Hahaha

I ordered some airbrush paint from Coast Airbrush a couple of weeks ago. I got a phone call from them to say one of the paints was back ordered for a week, and asking if I wanted the rest shipped immediately, and the other when it came in. I wound up waiting for everything to ship at once, and it did as soon as the back ordered paint came in. To me, that is great customer service, so thank you, and well done, Coast Airbrush!

I'm talking about the topwater lures/wake baits that Allan Cole made back in the early 90's. https://acplugs.com/

Does anyone here know what kind of wood the original A.C. Plugs were made from?

I shoot some PAM cooking spray into the injector between each shoot, and I'm still on the same O rings after 6+ years.

Those are beautiful!

Airbrushed, and then coated with clear nail polish. You'll lose the jig before the paint/nail polish ever fails.

If I really wanted to use the heavier Mustad hook, I'd pivot the hook so the eye is closer to the lead head, even if I wound up with the hook's shank at the bottom of the hook keeper where it enters the head or slightly exposed on the bottom. The bait will hide any exposed hook shank.

I use the Mustad 32786 for my jigs and chatterbaits, and I've never had one open up, either on a fish or on a snag. If hook strength is really important to you, modify your mold one time, and you're all set.

You might try spraying a water-based clear coat over the spray paint, and then try the nail polish.

Barlow's Tackle has a lot of new stuff for crankbait building on sale right now. I just got their email. barlowstackle.com

Beautiful baits!

Does the epoxy crack when the spoon is bent?

Try adding some yellow carpenter's glue to your POP after it's mixed to strengthen it. It will hold details better. 1/2 cup+- in 4 cups of POP.

Salt will make a bass hold a bait longer. Steve Merlo told me that years ago. I've had fish eat a Yamamoto Ika in brush, and they held it so long I was able to lead them out with constant pressure before I actually set the hook.

I think it has to do with the size of the color particle, but I don't know for sure.

I use Rustoleum white paint/primer as well, two coats, twenty minutes apart, and cured overnight. I've never had it bubble. Maybe you still have some solvent from the primer trapped before you paint. I do hit it with my hair dryer as soon as it's lost its wet look, and then again just before I paint it with Createx, to be sure all the solvent is gone.

The only thing I've found that will make water-based paint peel is either trapped moisture that keeps it soft, and caused the clear coat to crack and allow water intrusion, or expansion of a wood lure in the sun, which also cracks the clear coat and allows water intrusion. I haven't had that problem with decoupage epoxy, like Etex, but I've had that problem with glue epoxy top coats, like D2T. I've not had that problem with spray on solvent top coats, but I do dry my paint with a hair dryer between each coat, and again just before I top coat. I use Etex on wooden lures, and Rustoleum 2X Gloss Acrylic on plastic and PVC lures.

This is why I dip my plastic cranks in clean acetone before I paint them. It reveals a new, clean plastic layer, and it clears the bills. It also allows me to paint without a primer, so I can do transparent/translucent paint schemes. The bait in the middle hasn't been dipped yet.