mark poulson

I sent you a PM.

I did a search for Presto Pots pour valve, spout, and general, but I couldn't find the thread you're talking about, although I do remember reading it some time ago. My main concern, if I were going to install a pour spout, would be to do it without hitting the heating elements. Do you have a link to the thread that discusses that?

With XTX's description, those pictures make perfect sense.

Great description! So the way I read it, the entire line tie is free floating all the way back into the anchor pin. Can you actually move the bar side to side along the anchor pin, or is it solid back where it's attached? I'm asking because making a PVC crank with the line tie anchored deeply inside the lure, but flexible from at point all the way out to where the line is actually attached shouldn't be that difficult. A sst pin from spinnerbait wire, inserted sideways through a loop in the line tie wire, would make for a solid anchor.

Thanks.

Tree_Fish, Thanks for the pictures. That looks like the way a lot of us attach our line ties, but without the coating of D2T on the underside of the bill and in the through hole. I do it that way because I always thought that was the way to do it, to stabilze and strengthen the line tie. I can't see as much detail as I'd like, but it looks like the entire line tie assembly is free floating all the way back into the lure body. Is that a solid piece of flat metal coming out of the bait, with a wire loop at the top going through the bill for the line tie? Gon2long, I put the belly hangers like that, sideways, on my cranks, too, so I can turn the trebles and have two hooks ride the sides of the bait. It cuts down on hook rash for me. Most of the smaller trebles I use are welded so they will work like that. And I can cut off the down facing single hook if I'm getting hung up too much throwing into brush. Turning the rear hook hanger flat lets me orient that treble with the single hook facing up, which also cuts down on hang ups.

Is this the kind of Presto Pot you're talking about? http://www.walmart.com/ip/14321003?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3

Help! What is a self-tuning line tie, and how is it made?

What are you using to extract the air?

Zbass, As a hobby pourer, I'm always grateful when someone is willing to share what they know about pouring plastics. If they have a website and are selling something for pouring, and add that to their posts, I'm okay with it, too. Since I don't pour baits for anyone but myself and a few friends, I have no problem with what may seem like self-promotion to some. I just don't see it that way, and, so far, I haven't read anything here on TU that read like "I've just reinvented the wheel". If someone here takes an idea and adapts it to their way of making baits, or takes an idea from here and improves on it for themselves, and then posts that info here, I'm just happy they took the time,and were generous enough, to do it. This site, for me, isn't about bragging. It's about sharing.

Thanks for the tip. I haven't made a glide bait before, so I used the Roach (thank you Dieter) as a starting point, and added my ballast from the bottom, first with a 3 gram belly hook hanger, and then another 7 grams in two inline 1/4" holes moving forward from the belly hanger. I was trying to keep the ballast center, and low in the belly. I am going to drill out the centermost ballast until the bait just barely sinks. Then I think I can adjust the rate of fall with different size trebles, split rings, and line types and sizes. But this is my first bait like this, so it may not even glide! I am taking it up to a local pond with very clear water to test it this afternoon. If it won't swim, I'm back to starting from scratch again. Fingers crossed. I'll let you know how it turns out.

If you have detailed appendages, I'd think you want some kind of a two part mold, with the appendages exposed to both halves, so they don't get trapped when you inject them. I've made that kind of a mold with POP, but you have to take your time as you place your master so the appendages stay in the middle. I find I sometimes have to brush the masters with an artists brush and water very lightly, once the masters are in place in the POP, to make sure the POP is completely around the masters. Then, once the POP has set and cured, I carefully remove the skin of POP from the brushing and expose the entire master faces. It's time consuming, but, if I get the first mold half right, the second half is easy.

Baitjunky, Does extracting the air (neat video) from the raw plastic help prevent bubbling when you heat and stir it?

He's not from Texas.

I just made my first glide bait, and it sinks faster than I want. It was fine before I foiled and top coated it. I'll be drilling out some ballast today, to get to just barely sink again, so I can vary the sink rate by changing either the size of the hooks, or by using either mono or fluoro.

I dip plastic baits, very quickly, in clean acetone, and that cleans them so I can paint right onto the plastic with my Createx, with no primer needed. The acetone actually melts the plastic, so I dip quickly, and then let the bait hang tail down for a minute, to let the acetone flash off. Leaving the bait in the acetone too long will dissolve the plastic too much and make it weak, or leak, or come apart at the seam.

I find that the more nose down lure hangs, the more quickly it begins it's dive.

Amen!!! How many days until sprint training?

If you inhale any kind of dust it's bad for you. But, at least with powder paints, the boogers are purdy!

I see Toadfrog's Okie Tornado baits coming soon.

Everyone who has ever succeeded in anything has had help. If you say you never had help, you're lying, both to us and yourself. I am a very good carpenter, and contractor, and almost of what I now know I learned from others. With their help, I was able to expand my skills to where I could actually innovate, but without the solid base of their knowledge, freely shared, I would have been lost. And I have taught a lot of others what I know, happily. A lot of my former employees have gone on to become successful carpenters and contractors in their own right. Good for them! I have never worried that I was going to teach someone, only to have them take my job, but I've known and worked with people who thought like that. They were never as good as they thought they were, and stopped learning because they thought they knew everything. So I have a moto. Others have said it differently, like what goes around, comes around, and Karma is a bitch. I say it like this: Life is too short to be chickenshit.

Tease!

The only rule is to have fun and enjoy what you're doing.