mark poulson

If I were trying to repaint those lures, the first thing I would do is remove the screw eyes, and use some runny super glue to reinforce/reseal the screw eye holes. Then I'd redrill the pilot holes, and reinstall the screw eyes, coating them with some medium super glue so they will be locked in place once reinstalled. Finally, I'd do just a scuff sanding to give my new primer/sealer something to bite, reprime, and repaint. I wouldn't try and strip the bait down to bare wood.

If you want to use hardener, add it to the plastic before it's heated, and stir it well. If you add it to hot plastic, it won't mix and you'll get lumps. When I want to add hardener to some already cooked, but cold, plastic, I mix the hardener with new plastic in a separate bowl, until it's completely mixed, and then add it to the cold plastic and heat them both together, stirring as soon as the old stuff is soft.

Be sure to add some heat stabilizer when you cook your plastic, so it doesn't yellow when you reheat it. I add 1 tsp for a cup of plastic.

Neither am I, but I still catch fish! Hahaha Thanks for the reply, and the photo.

Forgive what might be a dumb question, but can't you use something like high temp silicone to repair an over-ground mold to make it usable again. Or that welding epoxy?

I've found that the Lurepartsonline spinnerbaits with a 5/0 hook are great, and don't roll, even with a Colorado/Indiana blade combination. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/King-Spin-Heads Barlow's also has a good spinnerbait with a 5/0 hook. https://barlowstackle.com/Fish-Shaped-Spinner-Bait-Head--P1506/ I fish 50# braid with a 20# fluoro leader, so setting the hook with a 5/0 isn't a problem.

Since Baitjunkys stopped selling plastic, I've been using Bait Plastics PM262-000 Medium/Hard, and have not had any problems with either bubbles or durability.

It sounds like you have to weight a sinking one piece glide bait just like a top water glide bait. The more level it falls, but with the tail slightly lower, the wider the S glide. For my bigger surface gliders, I want the back 2/3s of the bait to be just underwater. Smaller baits, like a Sammy, can hand down more, because they are typically walked instead of gliding.

Dave, It holds up fine on hard baits, as long as you don't leave it in contact with a soft plastic bait for more than 5 minutes. The softener in the plastic will melt the Rustoleum. When I make a bait like a rat that needs a soft plastic tail, I'll coat the area around the hitchhiker attachment with clear nail polish, and it's fine. I make sure the tail doesn't lie next to the bait on the deck,and I remove the tail when I put the bait away. But I have baits that I coated with it that are several years old, and are still fine. I caught a dozen crankbait fish today on a bluegill crank I painted and coated with the Rustoleum. They also make a matte that I use as a final coat when I want less gloss. Two coats of the gloss, five minutes apart, for strength, and then one coat of the matte, to knock down the gloss. For me, it's a cheap, easy topcoat that only needs a day to cure before I fish it. Plus, since I can make it work, it must be idiot proof! Hahaha P.S. Spray it outside and stand up wind. It has some fumes.

Since the unmixed stuff seems to be super soft, I'm guessing it's the hardener that settles out of suspension. I am careful to swirl my gallon of med. every time I think of it, even if I'm not pouring. Once it packs at the bottom, it takes serious mixing, like with a drill and mixing tool, to get it back up into suspension.

12 oz or 16 oz? Does it matter? Hahaha