mark poulson

I've found the Devcon 5 minute epoxy is water resistant, not waterproof, like the D2T, and will eventually soften and fail.

Isn't it time to lock this thread and move on?

Yeah, that's when I watched it, too. Lots of dry ice fog and hokey monsters back then, but it was fun. She says they're on Dr. number 13 now, so the series has survived a long time.

I think color is more important in clear water, where bass can see it much better. You can always add accents on the water if you take along several bottles of clear nail polish with different colored glitter in each. I would carry orange flake, purple flake, and green flake. If you're not getting bit, try adding a quick coat of the nail polish. It dries fast, and lets you change up without retying. In off colored or muddy water, dark colors work best for me.

Clever idea!!

Just remember the purpose of sealing the POP is twofold. First, to make the material harder and stronger, so the hot plastic doesn't affect it. Second, to seal all the tiny air pockets that are left in the POP, so the plastic doesn't wind up with a million little bubbles of air from the POP. A smooth, glossy finish is just cosmetic.

Whatever you wind up using, thin it so it will soak in on the first and second coats. Otherwise you lose too much detail. Once I've let the first coat sit for a minute, I drain my mold by tipping it up to vertical, and then use an air hose to blow out the excess. Pay attention so nothing fills the details, and you'll be happy later.

Have him give you a lure to duplicate, and tear it open to get the glitter out so you can match it.

Getting the job done without breaking the bank is one of the keys to enjoying lure making. If your brother works for Bass Pro, ask him to get you a Griffin Rotary Vise at with his employee discount. For the money, it is the best option, and you'll never have to buy another vise, unless you go into commercial fly tying. The only reason I didn't buy it way back when was money.

I've been using this one from BPS for ten years. I use it for tying feathered trebles, and for wiring skirts in place. It's crude, but it holds big hooks, too. http://www.basspro.com/Supreme-Rotating-Fly-Tying-Vise/product/90682/

Pete, She had her 18th birthday party this last Sat. night at my house, and the 15+- high schoolers who came were all lined up on the sofa and in chairs to watch the latest Dr. Who episode. They hung on every word. Whoda thunkit? I'm going to miss her when she goes to college in Toronto this fall.

I use runny super glue to seal balsa baits before I paint them.

I also use discs cut from alum. drink cans and sst ball bearings. I've had the same problem Quickdraw had with the rattles beating the aluminum plug, deforming it and causing the glue that covers the plugs to crack when I use Gap Filler super glue to cover the discs. When I use bondo, it doesn't crack, but the rattle isn't as loud.

What level of sale constitutes "on the market"?

It's just another way big companies can dominate small guys who can't afford the patent process. Sucks.

Aren't they in the process of changing the patent laws right now so it is first to file, not first to market?

Pete, Very nice. Since you named it the Tardis, I will be able to get my youngest to actually take a look at it. She is a huge Dr. Who fan, and had a dozen of her friends over last night to watch the latest episode. Of course, once she sees its a paint booth, she will be pissed, but that's what dads are for. What the heck! Hahaha

He did create a unique bait, and he should be able to make money from it, since it was his idea.

Many years ago-most thought the ocean was square but Columbus took a chance. Yeah, and look where that got him! Hahaha

Try sticking a piece of spinnerbait wire into the head of your plastic as a centering pin, and winding your hitch hiker on around it.

For vertical dipping, try having a second batch of harder plastic to dip the bodies in only, after dipping several times in the softer plastic to form the tail and body section. Soft tails are the key to successful tubes.

I resemble that remark! Hahaha

If the vapors/fumes are combustible, be sure and use a kitchen hood fan which is explosion proof, not a bath fan.

I use only water-based paints, so I don't worry about the Solarez getting under the paint. But I do worry about uncured Solarez being a problem inside the joints on jointed swimbait repaints. When I brush the Solarez onto a jointed bait that's already assembled, like a repaint of a BBZ-1, I hit it with the UV nail light to cure the faces. Then I take it out and let it sit in the sun with the bait turned so one inner side of the joints faces the sun, and then, after 5 minutes, I turn it and let the sun hit the other side of the joints. That way the Solarez inside the joints gets cured, too.

Thanks. Sounds like you've figured out a good system that works for you. Two thumbs up!