mark poulson

Here's the link for Folk Art paints: http://www.hofcraft.com/plaid-folk-art-acrylics.htm Michael's carries Apple Barrel paints.

The PVC board do have wood fibers in them, to give them enough strength for people to walk on. The trim boards have less, so they are lighter, and have a finer "grain". Whatever they use makes the trim board even more buoyant, but it is not as strong as the decking. "Pure" PVC would be like plastic pipe, and sink like a rock.

Here's a site that sells lots of different brands of air brush paint. It's only an example. There are lots more: http://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=11 Here's another with life-like paints: http://www.mckenziesp.com/Wildlife-Colors-C2020.aspx Google air brush paints and you'll find lots of choices. The paints I've had the most success with are Createx, Wildlife Colors, Apple Barrel, and Folk Art. Both Apple Barrel and Folk Art need to be thinned (I use Auto Aire 4011 Reducer), and their pigments are larger, so sometimes I have to back the needle off a little in my .035 gun to get them to spray well, but they have color others don't, especially the Folk Art metalics.

Some fish proctologist in Maine has his head up a bass' a$$!

Why in the world would you chance being sued by someone with more money and more lawyers? If you've ever been involved with lawyers, you would never want to do it again. Life is too short to let them ruin your life, or, at the least, make you miserable and poorer.

It is back to it's old self. Thank you Jerry!

Atlasstone, I only use one dip or brush coat, and let it drip before I cure it, and it never "milks up". It's probably a thinner coat than you're using. Maybe you could just use two thin coats and avoid having to polish it out.

To me the difference boils down to contact area. Stirup clevises have a very small area of contact with the wire, so they spin much more easily. Folded clevises have an internal flat surface, so they ride on mono without cutting it. Since nothing is attached to the clevis on a safety pin spinnerbait except the blade, and since a free spinning blade is what I want, I only use the stirup clevis on wire baits.

Epoxy doesn't dry, it sets. It's a chemical reaction between the resin and the hardener. Be sure you mix the two parts of the epoxy really well before you add any denatured alcohol, or you will get sticky spots that don't set up.

Thanks.

Just remember that, when you dip and hang, you get an uneven coat. It will be thicker toward the bottom, and thicker paint takes longer to dry/off gas.

Do you stir to keep flake and/or salt in suspension?

Whoopee!!!! Thanks Jerry.

Me, too!!! Funny how complicated stuff can get. Ha ha....not! Grrrr.

If you're using an open pour, try powdering the top of your worms with salt while they're still hot.

I've never seen the lure you're trying to imitate, but the lure you made is beautiful.

If your rear bearing isn't close, it's not doing it's job. Remember what the bearings are for. They are to keep the blade from twisting or wandering while you're cutting. They aren't necessary for your blade to stay on the wheel when the saw is running with no load from a work piece. If you need the bearings to keep you blade on your wheels you don't have the saw adjusted properly. I only use a roller bearing behind my blade. Because the blade you want to use is so small, there is very little flat area behind the teeth for the bearings to ride on, so metal bearings wind up getting scared up by the blade, and the blade dulls quickly. I use fiber blocks on the sides with 1/8" to 1/4" blades I use metal bearings for wider blades. I adjust the rear bearing so it just clears the blade when the saw is running, and comes into contact with the back of the blade when I apply pressure with the work piece. Then I move the side bearings until they are also just clear of the blade when it's running. I'm talking about the thickness of two pieces of paper. Constant contact with the rear bearing will make your blade wander, because it is being pushed forward on the wheels. For lure making, 1/4" is the widest blade I use, because the wider the blade, the wider the turning radius. So thinner blades make it easier to follow contour lines. Once you get your saw set up right, you shouldn't need to adjust it again until you change your blade. I remove the tension on the blade after each session, and retension it when I'm going to use the saw again. That saves both the blade, and the wheel tires.

There are a handful of threads about Solarez. Because of that, I suggest you use the search feature for Solarez, and you can read all we know. There is a thread a couple of threads below your post about Solarez, too.

Made in America means jobs in America. Cheap crap is just that, cheap crap.

A-Mac, I would use fiber blade guides for the sides if I were going to use a thin blade.

Not so far, but it will cause solvent based sharpie colors to run, so I put a coat of clear Createx over them before I dip.

I dip or brush mine, and don't have any clouding or color dampening issues.

With band saws, it's critical that the two wheels are parallel, and in the same plane, or it's almost impossible to get the blade to track. Band saw wheels generally have rubber wheel bands with a slight crown in the middle, which helps the blades to track, since the blade wants to climb to the crown of the wheel while it's turning. Once you have the blade on and tensioned so it kind of sings when you pluck the blade, put a long straight edge on the faces of the two wheels, to be sure they are aligned and parallel. Usually there are adjustment knobs behind the upper wheel to do the adjusting. If they're not aligned, and you can't adjust them, contact the manuf. to see how to adjust them.

Ed, I use the "Dual-cure polyester gloss resin". Under the Solarez name on the black plastic bottle it says "fast-clear-strong-UV cure", cures time: 3 minutes by sunlight or 30 mintes by MEKP catalyst. Here's the link: http://www.solarez.com/productsnew/gloss.html