mark poulson

The two part structural epoxy we use for anchoring bolts in concrete, Strongtie by Simpson, comes in a two tube dispensor, and has screw on tips that mix the two parts as it is injected. That way, the epoxy and catalyst only come into contact in the disposable mixing nozzle, and we can save any unused epoxy for the next job. Home Depot carries both the epoxy and the nozzles. Maybe you could find a setup like that, so you could add your micro balls into both sides separately, like A-Mac, and be able to inject it. That way, you might only have to replace the mixing nozzle, and you can use the dual tube setup to store unused portions of your resin and catalyst. Just something to think about.

I don't plan on trying the Solarez right now, but I was wondering if heating it once it's on the lure with a hair dryer after brushing it on or dipping it would help to even it out, before you hit it with the UV light?

The buzzbait I have that rolls is an old Strike King 3 winged blade model! Maybe the three winged blade is too heavy for the head. I think I'll try wrapping some lead wire right behind the head, and see if that helps.

Yer a cruel mon, Skinner! Hahaha

Nathan, It sucks to be "in the know' for the old t.v. trivia crap. "The older I get, the better I used to be".

I know some older guys who actually scuff up their new cranks to take the edge off the gloss. They're all sisters in the dark....I mean they all look the same underwater! Hahaha

Try http://www.predatorbassbaits.com/ and http://bustinbassbaits.com/. They both sell unfinished crank bodies that swim well.

I've used Nor Por cups for more than a year so far and had no problems. I assumed the oil was a residue of the heated plastic. Whatever it is, it doesn't affect the next batch.

If I made that lure my only concern would be worrying if I could duplicate it. Great job!

You are the perfect example of why people freak when they realize that "they live among us", they being you. Hahaha You think different, that's for sure. I live next door to a woman who writes vampire books, and makes a living doing it. I am always careful when I go out late at night.......

No, I have not, but I went to their site, and it is, to quote Artie Johnson, "very interesting".

Here's the link that was posted on page 3: http://www.solarez.c...snew/gloss.html

Anyone can make lures. It isn't rocket science. The biggest key is desire. If you want to do something bad enough, you'll find a way to do it. Attitude plus effort equal success.

Hammer Mechanic, 1st Class. "Too soon old, Too late smart." The older I get, the smarter your quote becomes. Hahaha

Update: I painted my hunting prototype with Createx, probably 10 coats altogether, and then dipped it three times in my urethane topcoat. When I fished it, it rolled. I had to add a suspend dot between the bill and the belly hanger to get it to swim and hunt again. So, evidently, my paint and topcoat adds buoyancy, enough so that I will add more front ballast in my next one to allow for it. Who'da thunkit?

All I can add is that I think you're going to have to make several prototypes to see how a lure shaped like that and ballasted like that will work best. I'm guessing a conventional bill, extending approx. half the body length out, and aligned parallel with the centerline of the bait would be a good starting place. You'll need a bill that's at least 1 1/4" long, plus whatever goes into the bait, to get it to dive down to the 10' range. Be sure that the lure hangs down at a 30-45 degree angle at rest, with the tail out of the water slightly. Any lower, and it won't back out of snags when you release pressure on it. You don't want to hang it up and lose it. I think it may be too round for a rattle trap-type hook and line tie arrangement. If you look at the forehead of a rattle trap (I'm thinking of the Yozuri 3D Vibe) the fore head is grooved, with a channel running from the nose back to the line tie. I'm guessing it's there to act as a cupped bill, and to start the wiggle action. But that particular trap is thin, with almost flat sides, and only weighs 3/8oz. If you go the trap route, try copying the hook and line tie layout of a trap that size. Then begin playing with ballast, and maybe flatten the sides a little as another option. I haven't tried to make a trap because it is a very difficult shape to get to swim properly, when you make it out of anything except hollow plastic filled with BBs. Good luck.

Husky, You're alive!!!! Hahaha Nice to see you posting again. There are so many lure making techniques I use every day that I learned from your contributions here that I think of you often.

You have to play around with your lure's size and shape to see what works best for you. I have found, thanks to the members here at TU, that the position of the line tie in the bill is the key for me. For cranks with the line tie in bill itself, I want at least a little more bill in front of the line tie than between the line tie and the lure. The closer the line tie is to the lure compared to the amount of bill beyond it, the wider the action of the lure. If I have less bill in front of the line tie than between the tie and the lure, it will swim like a stick. The more bill in front of the line tie compared to between the tie and lure, the wider the X like action of the lure. Just know that you will reach a point where the lure may blow out, because the ratio of bill before and behind the line tie is too great, causing instability. That will teach you the limits of that lure's bill configuration. You have to play around with your lure's size and shape to see what works best for you. I've also found that bill width is important. For cranks I want to dive well and have a wider action, I try to make the bill at least as wide, and usually a little wider, than the fattest part of the lure body. The same goes for shallow cranks with the line tie in the nose of the lure instead of in the bill. A good way to get started is to use a store bought lure that works with the action you want as a guide. Try and copy the proportions and ballast weight distribution of that lure to begin with, so you can make a lure that works. After that, you can begin to play around changing stuff to see what does what and why. I match the ballast weight distribution by floating the lure I'm trying to imitate in a bucket of water, and weighting my crank with split shots hung on the belly trebles hook points until my crank hangs the same way. If I need to add ballast, I try to put 2/3 in front of the belly hook hanger, and 1/3 behind it, and keep both as close to the hook hanger as possible without weakening the hook hanger. For me, it's not an exact science, but it is doable, and the general rule/guidelines I learned here make it easier. I can make cranks that swim, so I know it's possible for anyone. Good luck, and let us know how your lure turns out.

smalljaw, Thanks for the quick response. These are storebought baits, so the wire is stout. I'll try your method this weekend.

Really neat and clever. Plus it's beautiful. Thanks for sharing.

Let's not even get into what kind of fish a lure that uses hairspray would attract. Hahaha

I need some help. How do I modify a single blade buzzbait so it won't roll at higher speeds? I've tried bending the lure wire so the bait part runs deeper, to act as more of keel. That works on double buzzers, but not on singles. Any suggestions?

Hey Eric, How have you been? Hope to see you at one of the lakes. Mark

Bake, then carve with a dremel. Genius!!!

It sounds like a really great system.