mark poulson

I use the same paints as you, and dip them in urethane as a top coat, but I don't wait 8 hours before I dip them. I also dry them between coats with a hair dryer, first on low, and then again on high. The urethane I use doesn't make any paints run, but it does make solvent markers run a little. I dip with SC9000 by Target Coatings. It has no storage issues, and you can drip back into the container without worrying about it setting up. Here's the link: http://www.targetcoa...eries-25-1.html I dip three times, one hour apart, using a paper towel to remove drips from the bottom as the appear for the first 15 minutes. I hit the lures with my hair dryer on low after 30 minutes, and again after 45 minutes, and they're ready to dip again after an hour. Otherwise, just hang for two hours as recommended by the manuf. and redip. Either way, let the lures cure for 24 hours after you've dipped them. Their SC9000 is listed as interior, but it holds up well for my bass lures. It is truly super clear, and doesn't dull any paint scheme, including metallics. It holds up well to bass fishing, but it softens if it's left in water or on wet carpet overnight. It doesn't soften at all during a full day of fishing. They also make an exterior urethane, EM9300, that I use for salt water lures. It is completely waterproof, but does dull the paint schemes a little. A good way to get maximum protection without loosing too much pop from your paint scheme is to do two dips in the SC9000, and a final dip in the EM9300. The EM9300 has such a high film strength that it will cause a slight crackle effect if I apply it over my paint directly, so I always dip in SC9000 at least once before I use the EM9300, just to protect the paint. There are lots of other top coats out there that will work. This is just what works for me. Good luck.

Nice find!

That's a great way to match color!

Sallystrothers, One of my kids uses that, or something similar, for surfboard repairs. When he was down here from Santa Cruz, I filled and shaped his bigger, into the foam dings with bondo, and then he topcoated them with that kind of product. He says the patches are still holding, and that was 9 months ago, so it sounds like it would work for baits, too.

I just mix in a solo cup, and then heat it with a hair dryer, top and bottom, and then blow on it. That seems to do the trick. I typically mix only as much as I need to coat three swimbaits, and it doesn't become hard to apply even after I've heated it. If anything, it becomes more runny.

What brand of PVC are you using? I only build baits for bass, and for the local inshore fish. I've never even seen a musky, so I can't say this will work for them. But it works for big barricuda/ I use 1 1/2" .092 sst screw eyes in my AZEK decking jointed swimbaits. I just drill a tight pilot hole in the PVC, and the running the screw eye in and back out, to cut the threads in the PVC. Then I coat the screw part with brush on crazy glue, and run it back in. The glue that doesn't make it into the bait collects around the shank and makes a seat for the eye, so it can't rotate and unscrew. Either the line will break, or the hook will straighten out, before the screw pulls out. I've never had a screw eye pull out. The AZEK PVC decking is heavier and harder than their PVC trimboard, but it's still plenty buoyant, about like poplar, but much harder. If your PVC is like mine, you probably could skip the whole dowel step.

It is amazing how quickly the monthly billing cycle passes, but how slowly the monthly pay cycle seems to pass.

Those guys are both right. There are alternatives to splitting a lure in order to make a mold of it. And do use eye protection if you decide to cut. Everything generated by a dremel to cut a lure, from the "sawdust" to bits of plastic and metal, can damage you eyes.

Hahaha...remember work is way overrated, until it's time to pay the bills.

Boyd, If your bait has a thru wire, you can't remove it prior to splitting. Using hand tools, like a craft or hack saw, gives you the most control, because you can go slower. But it requires that the bait is clamped in a vise, and that is hard to do without pinching the blade during the cut. If you have a dremel with an abrasive cutoff wheel, you can clamp the bait in the vise, cut along the top at the midpoint, but less than half way, and then flip it over and cut the bottom. You can finish the cut with a craft or hack saw. The abrasive wheel won't be bothered by the through wire, if you're careful. If you bait has embedded hardware, like double loop wires or twist wires, use the same method, but cut up to the hardware on each side, and finish the cuts by hand. No matter which method you choose, it is a slow process, so don't get frustrated. If you do it well the first time, it will make your mold making much easier. If you get sloppy for some reason with you cuts, just use Bondo to reshape the bait before you make your molds. Good luck.

Saltshaker, Take care, and keep you head down. Those hurricanes are nothing to fool around with.

If one is too light, and the other is too dark, how about mixing the two?

If you plan to mix by weight, contact the manuf. to find the exact ratio. I've read it's 1.2/1 by weight, but I've never tried it that way, and don't even know which is which in the ratio. The directions say 1/1 by volume, so that's what I've always done. I've mixed by eye for years, and never had a bad batch. It is somewhat forgiving in terms of exact mixture.

I measure D2T by eye, by squeezing out matching lines (don't ask me how I got to be an expert in lines ) and it seems to work out fine. It is supposed to be mixed 1 to 1 by volume, not weight.

That makes perfect sense. Thanks.

That looks great! How does it sit in the water? I'd think it would be tail heavy, with that extra blade in the back.

Congrats! That thing casts like a missile, and really swims well, too. Glad to see all your hard work pay off.

Vic, Nice!!!!

I find it's easier to load the rod on a cast with a baitcaster. I guess my thumb is a lot smarter than my index finger. Hahaha

You can try hitting the mold with your hair dryer while the plastic is warming.

BobP, Thanks for the link!

Nice find! Thanks for sharing.

Are you staying in country, or moving to another?