mark poulson

"Cleanliness is next to Godliness" was originally penned by an airbrush artist.

I hope you get it worked out, too, and post the results here. Those are some of the main issues that caused me to switch to PVC decking and trimboard for hardbaits. And your bait is beautiful.

That's a neat site! Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

It really depends on how thin/smooth your mold material is, and how much time and effort you're willing to invest. I've never used water putty for molds, but I've gotten some nice detail with plaster of Paris. Don't give up if you screw up your first attempt. There's a learning curve for this, too.

rooty2??? Hahaha

I've used the Cabela's meat injector for years and it's holding up fine. It's all chrome plated brass, so it is strong and durable, but I do wear gloves when I inject, because it gets hot fast. Mine came with a replacement O ring, but I am still using the original. I just spray the inside of the injector with PAM before I use it each time. I cut down the needle to about 1/4" long. Here's what I use, in the 4 oz. model: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Commercial-Marinade-Injectors/728895.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dmeat%2Binjector%26x%3D20%26y%3D4%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=meat+injector&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

Quickdraw, The PVC trimboard I used for the first try is at least as buoyant as basswood, so I don't think that's the answer. Balsa is soooo buoyant that it make any lure more lively. That's why so many of the "classic" crankbaits, like the Fat Rap, and all of the wooden Rapala's, are made with balsa. Buoyancy helps even a not so perfect bait succeed, because it enhances any action the bait might have. I've just stayed away from it because I haven't needed that much buoyancy to this point, and the totally waterproof and easy shaping features of PVC decking and trimboard make bait making so much easier than having to seal and waterproof wooden baits. But I may get blackmailed into going back to balsa for this lure. Grrr!!!! Hahaha

Fingers crossed!

Thanks Ben.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll start looking for the 12lb balsa. I'm guessing that's the medium on Ben's site. I couldn't open his site, but I found some at Solarbo.com. Have any of you used them?

I'm hoping you'll have the answer to this. My friend asked me to duplicate one of her original Fat Raps. I've tried to do it in PVC trimboard, but it's too heavy, so I am contemplating trying it in balsa. Is there a specific hardness I should look for in the balsa I buy? Is there an online source where I can buy it in small quantities? Thanks in advance. The PVC Fat Raps weren't a total loss. I duplicated the Fat Rap's shape, and, in the process of duplicating the bill, I was able to cold bend my 1/8" lexan to form both the angle of the bill, and the scoop of the bill, so I learned something new from doing it. I think the lures will work better with a bill that lines up with the centerline of the lure, instead of being bent in a down angle. I am hoping that will increase both the side to side wobble, and the stability. Any ideas will be gratefully accepted.

Nice video. Do you think using smaller trebles might cut down on what you called the tumbling action on the cast? I've found that I have to vary the amount of let down, the line between the rod tip and the lure, depending on which lure and rod I'm using, to avoid tumbling with some lures, especially the longer ones.

Marc, That's funny. I've painted a bunch of different schemes on those poppers, but the bone gets bit way more than the others. The other more successful scheme is silver Sally Hansen nail polish over the clear bait, which results in a see-thru effect when you hold it up to the light. I color both the mouth and the gill openings red on both.

Congratulations on the new house! I hope it's near good fishing!

Those lures work great in a bone color.

Does it swim like this soft bodied bait?: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Deps_Basirisky_Hard_Belly_Frog/descpage-BHBF.html

His site is "down for maintenance".

I have that tool, but since I found this one it's all I use: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Naked_Bait_Jig_Spinnerbait_Skirt_Expander/descpage-NBSE.html Once I put the skirt on the jig or spinnerbait, I tie it with wire, and cut off the rubber band. I haven't tried rolling the rubber band off afterward to reuse it, but I will be giving that a try.

Sounds like you've got it figured out! Good luck.

I use calipers and shoot for a little oversize. I can't turn wood to thousandths. Close counts. The softer wood will probably be more buoyant, so those baits may still work even though they're a little undersized. I sand down to final diameter using a sanding block or a sanding strip.

Dieter, That is a really well executed concept. Beautiful work! I look forward to your report on the swim/cast testing.