mark poulson

Great. Can't wait to see it in action!!!

Congrats on working out all the bugs. Does it take long for the lure to fill with water and sink like you want? Does it take long to drain once it's back in the boat? How do you get a tail out to replace it, once it's gotten torn up?

Hahaha!!!!

Gary, I've come to the same conclusion myself. I switched to PVC for building so I never have water intrusion problems, and I use SC9000 because it works for me.

Good things happen to good people. Congrats. on dodging the skin graft bullet.

No. Dip and hang. Just watch and blot the drips that accumulate at the bottom with a paper towel for the first 15 minutes, and hit the bait with a hair dryer on low, lightly, after 30 minutes, and again after 45 minutes. Doing that let's me dip again in an hour.

Geez, what a swell bunch of guys! Hahaha

You promised not to tell!!!!

Like Ben, I use super glue to install ballast and hook hangers, and D2t to install bills. If I have any voids after the epoxy on the bills sets, I'll fill them in with gap filling Zap, and use the accelerant. I will start using Ben's wire applicator. He's right. The spray bottle wastes a ton of material.

Hahaha!!!! The old stuff is in the round file. If I have it on the bench, I know I'll figure, "Oh, what the heck, it's okay for some stuff", and I don't want to waste my labor by having glue, the cheapest part of any lure, fail.

I opened the new bottles, which have a use-by date of 2015, and it worked fine. I am waaaaay too cheap! I tried to nurse that old stuff past it's 2011 date. It doesn't help that I keep it in my garage, which gets hot in the summer. "I have met the enemy, and he is me". Hahaha

Gary, That is almost the consistency of the epoxy! It got hard on the outside, but the inside was gummy, almost like when 5 minute epoxy gets wet and fails. Thank Glenn. Good advice. It does seem to have a longer working time. I just bought another 9oz. set, and only have 1/2" left in the old bottles, so I guess it's time to toss the old ones and start with the new. It pains me to throw stuff away, but having to redo three bills is a pain. The up side is that removing the bills is easier because the epoxy isn't hard.

I recently made a couple of Fat Rap-type baits for a friend. When I tested them, they didn't wiggle, so I decided to use wider bills. When I removed the first bills, I found the D2T was still kind of gummy, even though it was four days old. The D2T epoxy I used to seat them had a use by date of 2011. Is that the reason it never got hard? I've use the same epoxy for years, with no problems, so I'm confused. Help!!!!

Just contact the different shipping carriers and find out their policies.

It's the drought!!!

Here's another... http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Screw-Eyes/

..the missus seems to be a little upset about the bill I ran up , .......she won't show , .......but I know she is Hahaha!! I'm sure she'll forgive you once you tie some of the new stuff on her line! A friend once told me, long ago, "If you play golf, you've lied to your wife" ​For fishermen it's probably "If you fish, you've spent too much on tackle". Seems like we're all in the same boat.

Semi-hijack..... I typically epoxy my 1/8" lexan crankbait bills in before I do the final shaping of the sides. Then I use a belt sander to shape them. I've noticed that I get little stress cracks along the edges I sand. Not big enough to be a problem, but visible. I'm assuming it's from the heat of the sanding. Has anyone else had that experience.

Mike, My mom used to say, every time one of my kids had a problem, "This, too, shall pass". I'm sure it will for you, too. Stay strong, and have faith. I'm rooting for you.

Neat looking machine. Thanks for sharing.

Yes. Check out the makeup section the next time you're at a drugstore.

I put a small piece of painter's blue masking tape over the eye and press it down with my finger, and then a toothpick, so it follows the contours of the eye, and is down tightly everywhere. Then I use the back of an exacto knife to circle the eye at it's perimeter. That cuts the tape without cutting the lure. Other than having a hole punch the perfect size to cut out tape disks, this is the best method I've come up with.

Glenn, Your idea to make a lure that's the same size. falls at the same rate and has the same action as the original, but is lighter, is a tough nut to crack, especially on a walking glider. The walking action relies on uneven distribution of the weight, with the back half of the lure heavier than the front, so it has more inertia in the water. The lighter front half of the lure yields to the resistance of the water first, so it turns as the heavier back keeps going. Kind of like a jackknifed trailer. Overall weight is what makes the bait sink at the same rate. And shape is what affects hydrodynamics, which is how water passes over the lure as it is worked. I'm afraid anything you do to lighten the lure will affect one or all of these characteristics. Myself, I'd probably settle for a smaller version first, so I could retain the same basic design but make it lighter by virtue of it's overall size. But I feel for you. Good luck.