mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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My pleasure. Everything I know about lure building I learned here. If others hadn't shared with me, I'd have been lost, so it's the least I can do. I just want to get bit, to see if the single hook setup works. It's a pretty stout hook, so I'm throwing it on 12lb fluoro and a med. heavy 7'3" cranking stick. I hope I don't need to go to a stiffer rod, to get a better hookset. Fingers crossed. -
I was just trying to cut down on the overall weight of the crank, but keep the tail thick for buoyancy. The prototype is a full 3/4" thick all the way, and needed 9 grams of ballast. It weighed in at 27 grams without the ballast. This model, with the body cut down to 5/8", tapering to 12"- at the belly, weighs 18 grams. I'll ballast it tomorrow, and find out how much lead it needs to hang down like I want it to. It should be a heck of a lot less than 9 grams.
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Man, those look great!!!!
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I just posted some progress pictures in the hardbaits gallery.
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Unassembled, showing line slot and hook picture. I took 5 pictures, hoping it makes it more clear. I still have to epoxy in the line tie and bill, final shape the bill on the sander, attach the hook with the sst wire axle pin, and ballast.
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Another unassembled, showing line slot and hook. -
Unassembled, showing hook slot, hook, line tie wire, and bill. -
View from top, with centerline and bill. -
View of belly, with centerline on bait and bill. -
Dieter, It's just the actual groove. I made the bait with PVG, and used a sst wire through axle, so I think it should hold up okay. I laid the hook on the side of the blank while it was still rectangular, moved it back until it seemed to have good clearance from the back of the lure to the hook point, and marked that point. Then I swung the hook down until it was in the lowest position I thought it should hang at, and marked that angle. I drilled the side to side through hole for the axle pin, and the drilled out the end positions of the slot. I cut out the middle of the slot with an exacto knife. With a sharp blade, it only took a minute. Once I had the slot opened up, I put the hook in place, and tried to pass the pin through it's eye. I played around with the drill until I had the clearance I needed. Believe me, discribing it is harder than doing it. I'll post some progress pictures before I assemble the other baits. -
Dieter, I just finished reshaping the other three blanks, so they are 5/8" except at the tail. I'm on my way back out now to epoxy in the bills and line tie wires. I won't be able to float test them until the epoxy sets, and I can give the bills a final shaping, but I'm excited.
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Thanks guys. The pivoting hook is Patrick Sebile's idea, not mine. Here's what I just posted on the hardbaits forum: Well, the good news it that it swims true, dives deep, digs, doesn't sang, backs up, and casts a mile. The bad news is I didn't get bit. I'm going to try and remove some of the buoyant material from the head and body by making the that part of the bait 5/8" thick, but keep the tail the full 3/4" so it says more buoyant. I got hung up shallow once yesterday, but I gave it some slack, and it backed right out of the brush it was hung in. The hook never got snagged. Since it only has one hook, what felt like slaps during the retrieve may have been just that, but with no trebles slaps don't translate into hookups, so I don't know.
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Well, the good news it that it swims true, dives deep, digs, doesn't sang, backs up, and casts a mile. The bad news is I didn't get bit. I'm going to try and remove some of the buoyant material from the head and body by making the that part of the bait 5/8" thick, but keep the tail the full 3/4" so it says more buoyant. I got hung up shallow once yesterday, but I gave it some slack, and it backed right out of the brush it was hung in. The hook never got snagged. Since it only has one hook, what felt like slaps during the retrieve may have been just that, but with no trebles slaps don't translate into hookups, so I don't know.
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I just posted some pics in the hardbait gallery.
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Another look, with the hook down. This shows the slot in the tail for the hook. -
Another look, showing how the hook pivots. -
3" long, 1 3/8" tall, 3/4" thick, PVC trimboard, 27 grams with the bill and hook, another 9 grams of ballast in the belly near the bill to get it to hang down like I wanted. The bill is 1/8" lexan, 1 3/8" wide, and sticks out 2 1/4". The line tie is 1" out from the lure. The hook is a hook I use for horney toads, and I used a piece of 18 guage sst wire for the axle. I wanted to make a deep diver that was snag-free, or close to it.
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Gary, I've found, for me, achieving depth with a crank is a combination of lip length, width, and line tie point. I have my prototype lure in the garage drying right now. As soon as it's dry, I'll post a picture in the gallery. I made the lure body 3" long, 1 3/8" tall and 3/4" thick, so it would have plenty of buoyant material toward the tail. I made the lip wide for most of it's length, and only tapered it back toward the lure body at the very back. The blank, when carved and with the lip attached, weighed 27 grams, and I had to add 9 grams of ballast to get it to hang down at the angle I wanted, so it would dive immediately. I'm hoping it dives deep, and is snagless. I'm taking it for a swim tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
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Sounds like, with the whole world online, these vendors overseas don't care if they only sell to you once, since there are lots more "suckers" out there. Probably it's like finding a good mechanic or contractor. Look for a referral from someone you know and trust.
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Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
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Owner has some really stout split rings that might work for you.
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I would try it without the extra venting, and see how it pours. I assume you're going to inject it, and there's usually enough slop in 2-part POP molds to let the air out without venting. If you're hand pouring it could be a problem. The nice part about using POP is that, even after you've sealed the mold with epoxy or glue, it's not hard to add vents later, if needed, by cutting grooves with an exacto knife. You can seal the grooves with super glue.
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Thanks Gary. I cut one out, shaped it, and made the hook slot. I used a 4/0 jig hook with the eye turned like I needed. I'm going to install the bill, and see how it floats today. I hope it will get down 18-20', but we all know deep divers are unpredictable. I'll post the results in the gallery if it works, and here if it fails.
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Now that's funny! I tried to throw a 12" swimbait for a whole day, and was worn out after an hour. I had to pace myself to keep throwing it. I finally just threw it over big points and retrieved it slowly, and then threw a smaller swimbait to the sides of the point, and to other rocky stuff. Even so, I was using a big surf rod to throw the big bait, and it was work! So I appreciate why he wants to make the bait lighter.
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Has anyone here tried the single belly hook design that Sebile uses for his deep diving cranks? I'm thinking about trying it, using a piece of spinnerbait wire for the hook "axle", and I'm hoping someone else has already made all the mistakes, and can save me some time and trouble.
