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mark poulson

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  1. mark poulson

    Pvc cranks

    mark poulson commented on mark poulson's gallery image in Hard Baits

    Pvc cranks
    Thanks guys. All three, crappie, bluegill, and tilapia, are in some of our SoCal lakes, so I figured it would be a paint scheme that the fish hadn't seen before. It's worked for the last two years....fingers crossed they don't wise up.
  2. mark poulson
    I remember that tutorial, too, but don't know who posted it. I just think screw eyes and pins, or sst cotter keys and pins, are way easier and less complicated.
  3. mark poulson
    Sorry to take so long to get back to you Ben. I was out chasing my goat to check. Hahaha
  4. mark poulson
    To my untrained eye, one of the key's to Frank's system is the electric griddle he keeps the pyrex cups on once he's heated them in the microwave to get the plastic hot. From his videos it looks to me like the pyrex stays hot enough that the plastic doesn't cool on the sides enough to be a problem.
  5. mark poulson
    I've heard of people using Legos and hot glue, but I haven't tried it.
  6. mark poulson
    Ben, Are there storage issue with the automotive clear you use? Is it easy to use?
  7. mark poulson
    For me, it comes in spurts. I'll go a week without having time to do anything meaningful, and then get bug up my butt and make half a dozen cranks the next week. It just depends on when the winds of inspiration break. I don't mean to sound like a preacher, but using PVC takes so much time and uncertainty off the building process, since there's no sealing/waterproofing involved, I can go out to the garage and knock out a crank in less than two hours, and then paint and top coat it the same day if I want. I have lots of wooden baits I made over the years that just sit in boxes in my garage now. As a carpenter, I love working with wood, but PVC is the only material I use for lures now.
  8. mark poulson
    I put a cheap Harbor Freight combination moisture trap/pressure regulator right where the air supply hose comes to my air brush connection manifold, so I can adjust the pressure more easily. Keeping your compressor at floor level also helps moisture to stay down in the supply hose, instead of passing up to the air brush. If I had it to do over, I'd get quick disconnect fittings for my hose and air brushes, so I wouldn't have three hoses draped over my work area all the time, like I do now.
  9. mark poulson

    Pvc cranks

    mark poulson commented on mark poulson's gallery image in Hard Baits

    Pvc cranks
    If I ever have another child, I'm going to name it John Hopkins, no matter what it's sex, as a tribute for him turning me on to PVC trim board. Of course, at my age, it will be born with grey hair! Hahaha It's amazing how quick and easy it is to make lures with the stuff. Because I don't have any sealing/waterproofing issues, I can whip out a crank in an hour and a half, ready for paint, so I can experiment with bills, shapes, and ballasting a lot more now. This hobby is so much fun, and catching fish on something you make is a real rush.
  10. mark poulson
    I just posted two photos of those baits in the hardbaits gallery, if you're interested.
  11. mark poulson
    I'm thinking you'd have more control with your regular carving knife, so I'd surely wear it when using the exacto. Those cuts come quick, but it seems like they take forever to heal.
  12. mark poulson

    Pvc cranks2

    mark poulson posted a gallery image in Hard Baits

    Pvc cranks2
    Same group, upside down. Position is everything. Hahaha I think you can see the bills better on this one.
  13. mark poulson

    Pvc cranks

    mark poulson posted a gallery image in Hard Baits

    Pvc cranks
    A group of 2 1/2" PVC cranks I made. All the bills are 1/8" lexan. The one on the bottom left caught a 7lb2oz bass two weeks ago, and the bluegill caught several last weekend. The four on the left are copies of the Bomber Switchback that runs to 14', but I'm not sure mine run that deep. I do know they grind the bottom in12'. They all weigh 19 grams. The group on the right are different. Same basic body design, but flatter sides. The top one weighs 22 grams, middle is 21, and the bottom, the smallest at only 2", weighs 15 grams. They have different bills, too, and the bottom one, the smaller one, has the same bill at the others. It hunts. The middle one on the right has a wider bill, and it dives faster and deeper. It is the one I lost prefishing on Friday, and had returned to me by a competitor/friend after the weigh in on Saturday. He found it floating in the back of that cove on tournament day. If you look close, you can see where the paint got scraped by my lure retriever when I tried, and failed, to get it unstuck in the wind. All the paint is Createx, Hobby Lobby, or Wildlife, and I dipped each one three times in SC9000. i used a hair comb with every other tooth remove for the stripes on the bluegill. I added clear nail polish with glitter on some after the top coat had dried.
  14. mark poulson

    Juvenile Crappie

    mark poulson commented on Big Bass Man's gallery image in Hard Baits

    Juvenile Crappie
    Great job!!!
  15. mark poulson
    I think you'll find the trim board carves more easily than the decking. Sharp blades are the secret to easier carving. And wear a leather glove on your carving hand if you're going to carve it like peeling an apple. If you nick the leather, you can glue another piece, thicker piece of leather over the thumb pad to make it thicker and give you more protection. I've used leather from old boots, and it works really well.
  16. mark poulson
    gekhang, I feel your pain. Losing a lure that you made yourself is a painful experience. I had a similar thing happen to me this weekend. I was prefishing for a tourney, and testing a prototype crank. It was the same body size and shape as a lure I've made before, but with a wider and longer bill. It swam beautifully, so I fished it for a while. Mistake! When it got hung in some brush in 12' of water, I used my extending lure retriever to try and get it back. Because it was windy, I rushed, and didn't tighten the first section before I lowered it down the line. When I felt the lure, I began poking around to free it, and the retriever snagged the brush or wood, and the first section pulled out. So I lost both the lure and the lure retriever. The next day, after weigh in, another angler (a friend) came up to me to show me a homemade lure he found floating in the back of that cove. It was mine! There was a small bit of paint damage, from the lure retriever, but otherwise it was fine! I was thrilled. He gave it back to me, no questions asked. I gave him another, similar lure as a reward. That one hunts, so he's probably going to use it to whip my butt the rest of the year, but it was worth it to get my prototype back.
  17. mark poulson
    FuzzyWuzzy, That crappie looks great. I have found that the KVD EWG short shank trebles really hold the fish. Nova, Barbs on the leaves would give the epoxy something to hold onto, but I don't think it will work for a swimbait hinge. I would think that piano hinge would have too much friction for a good swimming action, and would add too much weight. But I'd love to be proven wrong! Hahaha
  18. mark poulson
    I am no artist with an airbrush, but I manage. I have a cheap siphon Badger brush, with a .5 needle and three extra bottles. I use it for undercoating lures when I have a lot to do. I think I could spray tar through it! I can leave the undercoat paint in one of the bottles, capped, and it will last as well as in the original plastic bottle until the next time I use it. I use one of the bottles for washing out and back flushing (watch the exposed needle point). I have an Iwata HP BS with a .35 needle and the larger cup for almost all of my color painting. The brushes you have will do the job for you, no question.
  19. mark poulson
    garyo, Those are great looking baits. It's been a while since I top coated with D2T, and I never put on a second coat. I'll hazard a guess that you should scuff sand with a scotchbrite pad, or steel wool, wipe it down with denatured alcohol, and then recoat. If one edge only has pulled away, I would try and keep that edge lower while the epoxy is turning. BobP is the real D2T maven.
  20. mark poulson
    Maybe the bass has internet access, or dial up cable.
  21. mark poulson
    Wow Gekhang, those look great! Keep that broken Rapala and make a replacement lip from 1/8" lexan. I've replace a number of the Rapala lips. The newer ones aren't supposed to be as brittle.
  22. mark poulson
    Mindhunter is right. I've been painting baits for a few years, and scale cloth is still a problem for me, too. I wish I could find a soft, flexible mesh for scaling. I typically use tulle (wedding veil mesh) from a fabric store. The tulle is stiff at first, until it gets a coat of Createx on it that has been heat set. Then it's a little softer. But getting it to follow the contours of a bait is always a challenge. I've used the smaller mesh that cloves of garlic come in, and it's more flexible, and the mesh from the bath scrubbers, but it's always a challenge for me. Multiple, thin coats, heat set, are what works the best for me, too.
  23. mark poulson
    Hats off to you for your mold. It looks great.
  24. mark poulson
    Try using the Hard as Nails clear for a top coat.
  25. mark poulson
    X2! How in the world did you get a clay master out of the Durham's?
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