mark poulson

I'll have to try that. That's the way air is exhaust in a paint booth, and it works. Thanks.

Thanks for the heads up.

Do you thin your paint?

I've found that the only thing that reacts with epoxy, once it's cured, is a hammer.

Beautiful job!

.065 inches

Sorry. I just got the email today.

I got an email from KBS today with a discount code that lets my friends save 15% on all their products. You are welcome to use it. They offered me $10 for each referral, but I don't use it anymore, so I won't be using the money. If I could figure a way one of you could get the $10, I would, but I'm pretty sure that isn't allowed. hppt://kbscoatings.refr.cc/markpoulson Give it a try, and I hope it works for you.

You can also use weed wacker line. It is stiff enough to keep the hook weedless, but soft enough to collapse on the hookset.

I'm sitting here, Covided, and I'm remembering how I got rid of my old BBQ when the guts got rusted out. I bet the housing and rotisserie would have worked great as a covered lure turner. Hindsight is 20/20.

Hahaha Clearly you haven't spoke to my three ex wives, or any of my kids. I will say I've made a lot of mistakes (in lure making) and that, along with all the knowledge shared here on TU, has taught me a lot. "Too soon old, too late smart" is truly the case for me.

Thanks. I just use cooking oil spray, like PAM. Granted, I don't pour those molds very much anymore, but, when I do, they're still good. Maybe Lurecraft uses a special silicone that holds up really well.

What is UMR?

I think it may be a center of gravity thing. If the blade is getting fouled on the case, the bait is probably tumbling on the cast, instead of traveling ass first. Try adding more beads behind the clevis as spacers, so the body begins at the back of the blade. That way, it should cast truer, like a spook with more weight toward the rear.

Hahaha You sneaky devil!

I only make spinnerbaits for myself, and a few friends. When I want to powdercoat a spinnerbait, I fill the lid of the powder jar with powder, and sit it on top of a large piece of visqueen, like a big baggie. I heat the bait, and then, holding it by the hook, I dip bottom down, and roll as I dip. Then I tap off as much excess as I can. The sides of the jar lid act as a depth control, and I am careful not to overheat the bait, so I don't get too much powder on the bait. Sometimes the top isn't coated, so I reheat, hold the bait over the visqueen, and add more powder to the top by pinching some in my hand and sprinkling it over the bait. It is not very scientific, but I figured out how to make it work. I even add a contrasting color on top sometimes, using the same method. I even tried Cadman's tap the brush method, but I can't seem to make it work for me. Hat's off to him. His baits are works of art.

What do you use to knock off the excess with a 48 oz jig, a 20 oz framing hammer or a 5 lb mall? Hahaha

And that is...? And how does it apply to sst wire vs piano wire?

I can't tell you exact ratios, but I can tell you to add your hardener to cool, uncooked plastic, and stir it well, until it's completely dissolved. Otherwise, you'll wind up with lumps of the unmixed hardener in your heated plastic. The hardener is a very thick material. Softener is easier to mix in, because it is thinner than the plastic. Same with heat stabilizer. Just experiment, and write down your ratios, so you can duplicate your results once you get what you want.

I also found it was closed, when I tried to include their link in a comment. If you Google Glo paint, there are other suppliers. I still have enough powder from Glonation to last me a couple of years. When that's gone, I'll have to worry about who to order from, but not right now.

I have their 4.8 Keitech stone mold, 1 cavity injection. It shoots fine. The part leading to the tail is thinner than the actual Keitech, so I use a harder plastisol for that mold. I spray the mold with PAM cooking spray before each shoot, because it has deep rings and I want them to shoot right. They do so far, and I've had the mold for more than a year.

Coming from Cadman, that is high praise, indeed.

I make through wire Whopper Ploppers. I buy pre- bent wire from Lurepartsonline, usually the 12" .51 wire, with the front loop already bent. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts Then I thread them through the bait body from the head, add my prop assembly, a cupped washer and several metal beads, and then make my tail hook bend. I start the bend with round nosed pliers, binding it around until I get the wire just past the shaft. Then I put the loop I've formed in a bench vise, hold the wire tag with a pair of vice grips, and wrap the wire back around the shaft until it gets to the last ball. I cut the tag end off carefully with a dremel and cutting wheel, and test how the prop spins. If it's too loose, I spread the wrapped wire a little to make it tighter. If it's too tight, I cut a little of the wrapped wire off to give it more play.

I tried it once, and the blade was so heavy it barely turned. I'm sure there are people here who can make it work, but not me. If I want to coat a blade, I'll use either blade dip (https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Spike_It_Blade_Dip/descpage-SBD.html), or fingernail polish. I've found that I can even hand brush them with Createx, and then coat them with clear nail polish. That works, too.

I just poured another dozen creature baits with the mold that has the hole vents, and I was again reminded of what a pain in the butt vent holes are compared to grooves. Grrr...