mark poulson

Here are a picture of an arkie jig, and one of three chatterbaits (I hope).

You might have better responses if you post this on the Wire Forum.

Beautiful job all the way around.

I'll have to try that. That's the way air is exhaust in a paint booth, and it works. Thanks.

Thanks for the heads up.

Do you thin your paint?

I've found that the only thing that reacts with epoxy, once it's cured, is a hammer.

Beautiful job!

.065 inches

Sorry. I just got the email today.

I got an email from KBS today with a discount code that lets my friends save 15% on all their products. You are welcome to use it. They offered me $10 for each referral, but I don't use it anymore, so I won't be using the money. If I could figure a way one of you could get the $10, I would, but I'm pretty sure that isn't allowed. hppt://kbscoatings.refr.cc/markpoulson Give it a try, and I hope it works for you.

You can also use weed wacker line. It is stiff enough to keep the hook weedless, but soft enough to collapse on the hookset.

I'm sitting here, Covided, and I'm remembering how I got rid of my old BBQ when the guts got rusted out. I bet the housing and rotisserie would have worked great as a covered lure turner. Hindsight is 20/20.

Hahaha Clearly you haven't spoke to my three ex wives, or any of my kids. I will say I've made a lot of mistakes (in lure making) and that, along with all the knowledge shared here on TU, has taught me a lot. "Too soon old, too late smart" is truly the case for me.

Thanks. I just use cooking oil spray, like PAM. Granted, I don't pour those molds very much anymore, but, when I do, they're still good. Maybe Lurecraft uses a special silicone that holds up really well.

What is UMR?

I think it may be a center of gravity thing. If the blade is getting fouled on the case, the bait is probably tumbling on the cast, instead of traveling ass first. Try adding more beads behind the clevis as spacers, so the body begins at the back of the blade. That way, it should cast truer, like a spook with more weight toward the rear.

Hahaha You sneaky devil!

I only make spinnerbaits for myself, and a few friends. When I want to powdercoat a spinnerbait, I fill the lid of the powder jar with powder, and sit it on top of a large piece of visqueen, like a big baggie. I heat the bait, and then, holding it by the hook, I dip bottom down, and roll as I dip. Then I tap off as much excess as I can. The sides of the jar lid act as a depth control, and I am careful not to overheat the bait, so I don't get too much powder on the bait. Sometimes the top isn't coated, so I reheat, hold the bait over the visqueen, and add more powder to the top by pinching some in my hand and sprinkling it over the bait. It is not very scientific, but I figured out how to make it work. I even add a contrasting color on top sometimes, using the same method. I even tried Cadman's tap the brush method, but I can't seem to make it work for me. Hat's off to him. His baits are works of art.

What do you use to knock off the excess with a 48 oz jig, a 20 oz framing hammer or a 5 lb mall? Hahaha