mark poulson

I've found that using D2T, thinned with denatured alcohol after it's thoroughly mixed, holds up better than carpenter's wood glue. Two coats seem to do it for me. The first is 1/1, and really soaks in. The second is more like 80% epoxy, 20% alcohol, and it seals the surface for a smooth face.

Good move. Your eyes and extremities will thank you. Good luck.

I need some fine #4 split rings for my spinnerbaits. Not a ton, just enough to let me replace some that are rusted, or that have opened over the years from changing blades. Do you guys have a source for only a couple of dozen at the most?

I just use a double screw wood clamp on the sides of the handle. You can drill a shallow hole in a 2X4 that's the size of the barrel, and try that. Just be sure not to cover the air intakes, or the gun will overheat. A couple of nails or wood screws on each side of the handle should hold it upright.

Too dangerous. Sanding drums are designed for low speeds, and will come apart at 26,000 rpm's, or what ever speed your router runs. I have a big router with variable speed, but even the slowest speed is way too fast. Even if you could get a drum to handle those speeds, sanding at that speed will burn you wood. Don't try it, please!

Skeeter said it all. Toothy critters will have their way. One of the nice features of urethane is that you can recoat easily. I would check it out.

I'm not sure if it's "Great minds think alike", or "Even a blind pig finds an acorn once in a while". Hahaha

I am just a hobbiest, so this may not work for you. I band my skirts with the rubber skirt bands, and then cut it off after I've wired them on. It makes it easier for me to make the jigs the way I want them, and to keep the skirt material in place on the jig while I'm wrapping on the wire.

What about Vaseline on the O ring?

Because it isn't waterproof, only water resistant. Use D2T, which is waterproof. Sst screws are the way to go. Drill a looser pilot hole, run them in once, and then back them out and coat them with brush-on crazy glue and run them back in. The glue will strengthen the threads that are cut in the wood, and the glue that doesn't go in, but collects at the base of the eye, will lock it and keep it from rotating.

Bob, I did add some of one of the give-away crayons from a restaurant, to deepen the purple color. You are soooo smart!

I've had similar bleeding problems when I've poured around weighted hook in my open top swibait molds. It really happened when I colored the lead with a red sharpie. Maybe spraying them with a heat resistant paint would help prevent discoloration from the lead.

I only use a microwave to heat my plastics. When I first started pouring, I had that happen, too. I come here and asked what went wrong, and someone here on TU told me it wasn't heated enough. I was so afraid of over-heating my plastic, I didn't get it hot enough. I bought a hand held digital thermometer, and it's been a lifesaver. It's the MT Pro, and I don't remember where I bought it, but it wasn't expensive. And being able to heat plastic, and know what temp. it is during the heating and when I pour makes pouring simple, and much less stressing. Coupled with the NorPro silicone cups, I can now pour between 325 and 340, and never scorch the plastic. The silicone cups heat the plastic more evenly, and keep the plastic hot much longer than pyrex, especially if you pinch the tops closed with a big paper clip. Others (Frank) are wizards with pyrex, but not me. I'm more the Disney sorcerer's apprentice. Doh!!!

If I remember right, he can see some colors, but only a few. I bet if you google Arron Martens, and also color blind, you could find out a lot more.

I read somewhere that POP, and drywall mud, turn back into powder when heated about a certain temperature. You might want to do some research before you make a lead mold out of either.

So the hole in the ozone layer is responsible for the Weather Underground? If you didn't grow up in the '60s, you won't understand this.

When I suggested looking at successful commercial lures, it was not only to see what angle the lip sits at, it was also to do a float test to see how to ballast them. Seeing how a lure sits in the water says a lot about how it's weighted, and what angle of attack it needs initially to perform. All deep diving floaters sit nose down at rest. Aside from esthetics, having the flat, 0 degree lip already pointed down lets the lure begin to dive immediately, and allows the 0 degree lip angle to work. Shallow lures typically float horizontal, since their lips are at 45+- degrees, and dig into the water without any help from the atitude of the lure. A lure with a 0 degree lip angle that sits horizontal (level) would struggle to dive, because the lip isn't catching enough water to initiate the dive. In lures with movable ballast, to aid in casting, the diving lures have a system that's oriented from low in the belly to high in the tail, so the ballast moves to the tail on the cast, and then drops back down to the belly, lowering the nose and lip, once it lands.

Try making a table cover from 1/4" melamine, or some other smooth faced, thin sheet material.

Aaron's mother Carol spoke to our club a few years ago, and said Aaron is color blind, so what he looks for is contrast.

Bob, PVC is totally waterproof, so any water-based sealer would probably just lie on the surface. If it's rough enough to bond, the Elmers could fill in the roughness a little, but I'm thinking it would peel out sooner or later. Thinned epoxy would probably bond, and hold up better.

I hand pour the first color into one of the halves of the mold, lying on the workbench, and then put the mold together and inject the second color. It works for me. I am sure to have the second color heating as I'm pouring the first, so I get a good bond of the two colors.

Thread and a drop of super glue will hold.

I don't make tackle for sale, only for me. But I hate losing fish on a weak hook that opens before it can penetrate. I went away from Owner's small EWG hooks for that reason. I fish Mustad's Mega Lite fine wire EWG hooks for most of my T rig plastics. The hooks are strong, and sharp, and have a big enough gap for fat plastics like Fat Ikas. They are also expensive. Does Eagle Claw offer a comparable lite wire EWG hook?