mark poulson

It's the same thing with Rustoleum X2 Gloss Clear.

I hope they'll listen to you. Take care.

My friend would call it bulbage. Hahaha

Man, that is tough. Washing your hands works, because the soap breaks the virus' membrane, I've been told, so please do that. Stay safe, and be well.

Be safe.

Thank your wife for the advice. I already found out that it's important to rinse off the soap, or you will blow bubbles out of you butt later.

We just got a report from our local supermarket that one of their employees has Covid 19. Yesterday, they sent an email to all of their club members. They closed completely today, and are sanitizing the entire store. Due to reopen tomorrow. My daughter and I are doing our shopping there online, and doing a drive thru pickup on Sunday. I just hope they can really sanitize everything, since the virus can live on hard surfaces for days. We'll wear gloves, use hand sanitizer, and wash our hands after handling the food, but I don't know how to sanitize the food itself, other than cooking it.

I've found that acrylic top coats, like AC1315 concrete sealer and rattle can Rustoleum X2 Gloss Clear, are melted by the softener in plastisol. I keep my baits topcoated with them on one side of the boat, and my soft plastic baits on the other side. My baits coated with either epoxy or UV clear are not affected by plastisol.

Man, don't take a chance with your lungs and your health. Once you do the damage, it can't be reversed. Been there, done that. Spend the time and effort to keep yourself healthy and safe, so you can go broke chasing the soft plastic dragon.

You nose is the best defense you have. If you can smell the plastisol, you need better ventilation and breathing protection. Fumes from this stuff is not safe to breath, no matter which formulation you use.

I load the rack, set my toaster oven at 350, and bake for 30 minutes. Then I open the oven door a little, put a piece of alum. u channel in the door to keep it ajar, and let the jig heads cool back down for another 30 minutes. I haven't had a jig head chip doing that for 10 years.

Nice to see you post again.

When I was fishing for bass on the CA Delta I caught a 10 lb salmon on a wiggle wart, and it twisted the rear hook hanger 90 degrees! I keep that lure hanging above my work table to remind me that "there be monsters", and to build accordingly.

I always install the swivel dry first, just to make sure my mounting hole is deep enough, and to drill for and test my cross wire anchor. I lay the swivel on the side of the bait at the mounting hole location and mark the eye that I want to hit, so I know where to do my cross wire hole. Because the eye of the swivel is wider than the mounting hole, I position the eye parallel to the front to back centerline of the bait, and, using notches I make with a small screwdriver as a guide, I force the eye in. Once the eye is started parallel, it goes in just fine, and I seldom have trouble getting the cross wire into the eye. I'm careful to just coat the outside of the swivel and the inside of the hole with glue before I install the swivel. Then I install it slowly, watching to be sure the glue doesn't get into the swivel itself. Once it's installed, and before the cross wire is installed, I rotate the swivel a few times, just to be sure it's clear. If I've gotten glue into the swivel, I try and get it back out before the glue sets. Gap filling super glue give me a little margin for error.

Well, it's back. Bigger threads load more slowly. Just started this week.

If you're doing the slot cutting by hand, just take your time. Getting the part of the slot that goes side to side, ending at the predrilled hole, is the most critical. Mark out the slot, and follow those marks. Getting too much play in that slot will make it more difficult to lock the tip in place.

In my crankbait building, I've found it helpful to think of a crankbait's actions as wiggle, the X shaped movement of the lure's nose and tail as viewed from above, and wobble, the amount the bait moves/rolls from side to side as viewed from the front. The bigger the X, the wilder the bait's side to side action, and the bigger the wobble, the more water it displaces on the retrieve. I need to add ballast to all of my PVC trimboard lures to get them to swim right. I typically use a successful commercial crankbait as a model, floating it in my 5 gallon water bucket to see how it sits at rest. I add ballast to my lures to achieve that same "angle of attack", and then , once I've gotten a lure to duplicate the commercial lure's performance, experiment from there. I've found that adding my ballast at the belly hook hanger's location, and as low as possible, give my the widest wiggle (X ing) because both the nose and the tail are the lightest and easiest to move when they have no additional weight, other than the line tie/lip, and tail hook and hanger. It also produces the most stable lure, one that won't roll over no matter how fast I retrieve it. Splitting the ballast, and installing it in front of and behind the belly hanger, dampens the wiggle. The farther apart the weights are, the more they act to deaden the wiggle, because they become counterweights. I've found that the higher the ballast is in relation to a line from the line tie to the rear hook hanger, the more the lure wobbles. In my crankbaits, I still put the majority of my ballast weight at the belly hook hanger, but I've found that by moving up to a third of the ballast weight about that line tie/rear hanger line, I can get more wobble in an otherwise stable lure. I'm afraid you'll have to just try stuff to really learn how to ballast whatever lure you're making. Of course, if you're smart like Dave, you can figure it out as you design your lure on the computer. I've never been able to do that, so trial and error has been my method. Everything I know about lure building I've learned here on TU, from people like Bob P and Dave, who have shared with me, and from just trying stuff to see how it works. Good luck, and let us know how you progress.

I don't know if cavitation is the reason for the holes, but I do know that water passing over a badly reamed copper pipe end will cause the chlorine dissolved in the water to precipitate out as a gas, and that gas will eat away at the copper pipe, eventually causing a leak. That water isn't passing the badly reamed pipe at much speed, so maybe those holes in the blades do cause cavitation.

I think Frank did the original locking pin alteration to an injector. Maybe he can chime in.

Could it be that when you have the rod pointed at the lure it creates a lower angle of the line to lure contact, while to the side straight out is making a shallower angle of attack, because the rod tip is higher? I know this can affect how deep the lure runs, but I don't know why this would affect how the lure swims. It's the only difference I can figure out between the two retrieves.

I couldn't open the TU site at all yesterday. Was there some kind of site maintenance?

It seems to have cleared up on it's own. Probably just a 24 hour bug.

I think the holes are to let you retrieve it a little faster without the bait rising to the surface. That's also why the tip of some blades are bent.

Sprinker and Booyah solve the problem of getting movement in a two piece lure with a boot tail by attaching the boot tail with a swivel: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Booyah_Toad_Runner_Frogs/descpage-BYTRF.html

According to my family I'm already enough of a jerk. Hahaha