mark poulson

I've had to turn off my adblock sometimes.

Years ago I had take a lead abatement class in order to keep my contractors license, and they went over many of the same things, but related it to removing lead-based paint in residential construction. Lead paint is a real threat for children. My instructor emphasized that lead dust can also lead to sterility, but I think he was just trying to get the male case to pay attention. It has been 20+ years since I had to worry about this, and things may have changed, but that's how it was in the 90's.

Barry is the Jedi Master of wood baits! I learned a lot of what I know about wood baits from him.

I shape (including ballast holes adding hardware hangers) and seal my baits with penetrating epoxy (epoxy thinned with alcohol), add ballast as needed to get them to suspend, seal the ballast holes, paint, and finish. For me, the paint and topcoat don't effect the suspension enough to worry about.

I've found that decoupage epoxy, like what is used for bar tops, works best for my wooden baits, because it is designed to move with the wood's expansion and contraction. For small plastic baits, Devcon 2 ton, which is a glue epoxy and designed to be rigid, will work, but it cracks on bigger wooden baits.

If you have lead sprue cutters you can just pour the heads with no pins, and the cut small nibs off flush when you're cutting off the sprues. The fish won't care.

Just be sure to keep a log of what you're doing, so you can duplicate it once you've got it solved.

Thanks. Does flat rubber fall more slowly?

Forgive what might be a stupid question (surprise, surprise) but why is flat rubber better than round rubber?

Maybe because it's sub-til! Hahaha

You can use waterproof Sharpies to color them, or to add detail.

Nice!

Please wear some kind of respirator. Lead dust is bad to breathe.

I use clear fingernail polish over my acrylic paint jobs. It is really clear, and tough. I use it on the hook paths on cranks to stop hook rash.

Try Googling ac1315.

Like Tiderunner said, "Just remember to stir well, the stir some more to make sure it's blended in your Cold plastisol. " If you don't you'll wind up with some hard snakes in your plastisol, because unmixed hardener won't dissolve without mixing. I add some heat stabilizer every time I add hardener, 1 tsp per cup of plastisol. That way I never have to worry about discolor when reheating.

Glad i could help. Good luck.

Sounds really interesting. Good luck and report back when you've finished.

again

My rule of thumb is wider lip, wider wiggle. I think it's a water-resistance thing.

Damn spam!

When I do that, I start with clean file, count the strokes until I get the weight I want, and the file the rest with the same number of strokes, starting each one with a clean file. The first one will take you a couple of minutes because you need to stop and weigh until you get it right. Once you have it down to the right weight, it shouldn't take you more that a minute each for the rest, including cleaning the file. No matter the condition of the file when you start, lead is soft enough to do the job quickly and easily. I would surely rather invest 30 minutes to get 24 jigs the right weight than invest the cost of getting a modified mold.

If I were only doing a couple of dozen for myself, I'd take a 1/2oz jig and, using a vise to hold it, file the bottom flat until it weighed 7/16. Then I'd just do all the rest the same. If I got them close, I'd be happy. A sharp file and a file card or brass wire brush, to keep the file teeth clear, and I'd be set.

It's back.

Thank you.